Nice work, SeanAP! Good to know that it can be baked fuse'n'all. Is that stuff like Fimo? (designed for baking?)
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Nice work, SeanAP! Good to know that it can be baked fuse'n'all. Is that stuff like Fimo? (designed for baking?)
The clay I got was indeed ment for baking, it was also listed as "Professional" and even after baking is still has a little elasticity. I really didnt want to bake it so that it dried out
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Update:
The clay fuse holder is working amazing and has held up to a rough couple of nights out on the town. The clay really allowed me to make the perfect fit fairly easily.
I am still running the stock firing pin, the fuse is the only mod I have done so far. Right now I get .28V drop on a 1ohm micro coil. Which is fairly good but I am hoping once I get an upgraded 510 positive post and Robs new firing pin I will be able to get down to a .13V drop like pdib (maybe even less).
The clay fuse holder is working amazing and has held up to a rough couple of nights out on the town. The clay really allowed me to make the perfect fit fairly easily.
I am still running the stock firing pin, the fuse is the only mod I have done so far. Right now I get .28V drop on a 1ohm micro coil. Which is fairly good but I am hoping once I get an upgraded 510 positive post and Robs new firing pin I will be able to get down to a .13V drop like pdib (maybe even less).
This was too easy not to do. Got my Reo to fire much better with the fuse. This'll do while I wait for that sub-ohm kit.
Thanks to the people who thought this up!
Thanks to the people who thought this up!
Sea nap. Need my address to send me that fuse holder? Lmfao
Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2
Out of boredom and curiosity, I decided to give this a try.
I started by getting rid of some of the black wrinkle on the bottom of the cabinet to let the fuse ground, but then I decided I wanted to take it all off. I got about 90% of it off and went ahead with the fuse.
I went and grabbed a few 10A fuses and got to work, snapped a leg off my first one, intentionally shorted my second, and made a more insulated one for the third by taping over the areas that could short on the body.
Then seeing as my button had melted a few too many times and reusing it seemed weird considering everything I had done so far, I decided to make a new button. Rummaging around I found a few promising replacements made of metal but ended up using a spent .22 cal casing I found in my room. I insulated it with some plastic shelf insert material, cut it to size and voila: everything works like a charm.
Still left on my to-do list are:
Finish removing all black exterior and interior paint
Refinish the exterior - not sure if I want to polish it or paint it another color
Create brass/copper firing pin mechanism - I need to get some more pictures of what the feed system looks like before I do this. I'd rather not buy a replacement set just to use a new firing pin
I started by getting rid of some of the black wrinkle on the bottom of the cabinet to let the fuse ground, but then I decided I wanted to take it all off. I got about 90% of it off and went ahead with the fuse.
I went and grabbed a few 10A fuses and got to work, snapped a leg off my first one, intentionally shorted my second, and made a more insulated one for the third by taping over the areas that could short on the body.
Then seeing as my button had melted a few too many times and reusing it seemed weird considering everything I had done so far, I decided to make a new button. Rummaging around I found a few promising replacements made of metal but ended up using a spent .22 cal casing I found in my room. I insulated it with some plastic shelf insert material, cut it to size and voila: everything works like a charm.
Still left on my to-do list are:
Finish removing all black exterior and interior paint
Refinish the exterior - not sure if I want to polish it or paint it another color
Create brass/copper firing pin mechanism - I need to get some more pictures of what the feed system looks like before I do this. I'd rather not buy a replacement set just to use a new firing pin
Busy, busy! Sounds like you were careful to avoid having a metal button contact anything on the REO body when that same metal is also contacting the battery positive through the pin. Can't see it, tho. Also, I can't see how you've got the part of the fuse that touches the battery insulated from the REO body. In the pic it looks like the "elbow" of that top fuse leg (that contacts the battery) could rather easily touch the back of the REO at the same time. (?) That would make it so the fuse would never blow, and wouldn't be providing any hard short protection.
I wasn't so concerned that the button touch the body, but that it didn't come into direct contact with both the body and the firing pin, hopefully these blurry pics can help explain it more thoroughly than I can.
As for the fuse, the only areas I left exposed are those that need to come into contact with the battery and the Reo body. I plan on fabricating something like you've done with the mini fuses, but that's for another day. I also added a little bit of reverse-looped electrical tape to help keep it in place just in case.
Oh and I almost forgot my darkzero-inspired jig that I made in the middle of all this. I want to re-do it though and stain it eventually.
As for the fuse, the only areas I left exposed are those that need to come into contact with the battery and the Reo body. I plan on fabricating something like you've done with the mini fuses, but that's for another day. I also added a little bit of reverse-looped electrical tape to help keep it in place just in case.
Oh and I almost forgot my darkzero-inspired jig that I made in the middle of all this. I want to re-do it though and stain it eventually.
Hah thanks a lot man, keep the innovations coming! I'm more than happy doing the idiot check for ya hahaCheck . . . . very good sir!
I haven't been checking religiously; but I think .3 - .35V (bestest & commonest). Pretty dang sure; just going on memory tho. I'm just finishing setting up "Psybrid II: the Sequel" with Dizzie's centerpin. Might have some numbers on that shortly.
Did you get your thing working ok, Jeremy?
Did you get your thing working ok, Jeremy?
Hey guys - awesome thread...
Can I ask everyone's opinion?
Trying to plan on how to get the best vape out of a Mini (the original) - when I pulled the trigger and bought it in the Classies, I didn't realize I was going to end up build-limited due to the battery... (I like to play with different resistances, coil types, etc... mostly I like a fairly hardy vapor production - .8 - .9 seems to work well for me (I can always go lower on another mod with another RDA).
But reading this thread gives me some hope that I can mod the Mini up a little to get a slightly sub-ohm experience without actually building under an ohm. Planning to ask Rob to make my air hole bigger than stock, and drill out the posts for me a bit as well so I can play with twisted options, etc.
The question is, what's my best choice of fuse, and why? I've run into a difference of opinion, and thought this would make for an interesting dialogue.
SeaNap: "You should really run a 4A fuse, to protect your battery."
pdib: "If you decide to go with the 10A; you won't know if your battery came out unscathed from a hard short. Not saying it won't be fine, you just won't know if it's "weakened", compromised a little each time. Any hard short is gonna pop either of those fuses in tenths of a second . .. so . . . (?). Actually, now that I think about it, those springs don't collapse as fast as the fuse pops (I know from experience). I bet the 10A would be fine. It will certainly shut down a hard short in nanoseconds."
Obviously two bright, experienced guys... so which way would you go?
Can I ask everyone's opinion?
Trying to plan on how to get the best vape out of a Mini (the original) - when I pulled the trigger and bought it in the Classies, I didn't realize I was going to end up build-limited due to the battery... (I like to play with different resistances, coil types, etc... mostly I like a fairly hardy vapor production - .8 - .9 seems to work well for me (I can always go lower on another mod with another RDA).
But reading this thread gives me some hope that I can mod the Mini up a little to get a slightly sub-ohm experience without actually building under an ohm. Planning to ask Rob to make my air hole bigger than stock, and drill out the posts for me a bit as well so I can play with twisted options, etc.
The question is, what's my best choice of fuse, and why? I've run into a difference of opinion, and thought this would make for an interesting dialogue.
SeaNap: "You should really run a 4A fuse, to protect your battery."
pdib: "If you decide to go with the 10A; you won't know if your battery came out unscathed from a hard short. Not saying it won't be fine, you just won't know if it's "weakened", compromised a little each time. Any hard short is gonna pop either of those fuses in tenths of a second . .. so . . . (?). Actually, now that I think about it, those springs don't collapse as fast as the fuse pops (I know from experience). I bet the 10A would be fine. It will certainly shut down a hard short in nanoseconds."
Obviously two bright, experienced guys... so which way would you go?
pdib PM'd me and asked for my thoughts, and I was really basing everything on what your battery can handle. If your battery is only rated for 4A continuous, than that is your bottleneck. Im not saying that if you use your battery at 5 or 6 amps that it will immediately blow up but the battery will heat up and its ability to hold a charge will diminish, and you may end up going through more batterys. My suggestion was to get a better battery that can handle a 8A discharge (does something like this exsist??) , and that way you can use a 7.5 or 10A fuse. If your battery was rated for 4A contin. a 10A fuse will not blow fast enough under a hard short because there is not enough current supplied by the battery unlike our High-Drain batts we've been using, just like when pdib experimented with the 15A on our 18650 batt's.
This whole point is moot if you do have a high-discharge batt, let us know what battery you have because that is the ultimate deciding factor.
The peak discharge of a battery is generally 3x the continuous rating, so the peak discharge of a 4A batt would be 12A, so theoretically in a short circuit situation the battery cannot put out any more amps than the peak (it can but that is the point of failure) so the fuse protecting the batt would have to be rated so that it blows at 12A in a short amount of time so that you dont damage your batt. Thats why a 10A fuse would not blow fast enough. This is theoretical, and I don't have any 14500 or 4A fuses to test, so take what I'm saying with a grain of salt, but this was my thought process for choosing the 10A fuse for our 18650 batts.
Keep us updated!
This whole point is moot if you do have a high-discharge batt, let us know what battery you have because that is the ultimate deciding factor.
The peak discharge of a battery is generally 3x the continuous rating, so the peak discharge of a 4A batt would be 12A, so theoretically in a short circuit situation the battery cannot put out any more amps than the peak (it can but that is the point of failure) so the fuse protecting the batt would have to be rated so that it blows at 12A in a short amount of time so that you dont damage your batt. Thats why a 10A fuse would not blow fast enough. This is theoretical, and I don't have any 14500 or 4A fuses to test, so take what I'm saying with a grain of salt, but this was my thought process for choosing the 10A fuse for our 18650 batts.
Keep us updated!
That 4A fuse can easily handle 5A @ 5sec, and you should easily be able to run a 1ohm coil, .9 or .8 is just pushing the capibilities of that battery. By doing the fuse mod and the firing pin mod you will be able to minimize the resistance in mod so that all the power goes into the coil, and I think that a 1ohm coil will hit very nicely.
Be carefull with the air hole, its pretty easy to go too big, and there is no turning back, unless you have a pdib airhole selector collar. I just took a pocket knife and put the tip in the air hole and spun it around a few times to shave off some of the metal and it made a huge difference.
Be carefull with the air hole, its pretty easy to go too big, and there is no turning back, unless you have a pdib airhole selector collar. I just took a pocket knife and put the tip in the air hole and spun it around a few times to shave off some of the metal and it made a huge difference.
Yeah, I see what you're saying there, SeaNap. So a 4A fuse looks to have a typical V-drop of .121V in the chart you linked. (and the 10A is .108V) So there's not too much difference on paper. Definitely the 4A would be the way to go at a difference of only .013V! (I have no idea what amperage they're running these tests at; but I do know that if my total v-drop at 1Ω is .15V . . . . the fuse can't be siphoning too much more than what's listed . . . .. maybe less(?))
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Not that I know of - it's just the AW IMR 14500... As far as I know, that's the only battery that fits the Reo Mini.
Thanks for illuminating it like this - so appreciated.
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