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I am given to understand that those fuses might pop a little too easily. (i.e. vaping a .5Ω coil might trigger it)
Also, although SeaNap and ChrisEU were the "fuse researchers" (and I just went with their results), we were looking for very low resistance (voltage drop) fuses.
Also, although SeaNap and ChrisEU were the "fuse researchers" (and I just went with their results), we were looking for very low resistance (voltage drop) fuses.
Given that my mod required some tools, materials and etc. that aren't in everyone's vape-cave. I took inspiration from SeaNap's version, and came up with something that most anyone can do. (If not, maybe shouldn't). I'm using a blue fuse as I did a little testing as well today. I am going to STRONGLY RECOMMEND THAT WE ALL USE THE RED 10AMP FUSES. The blue (15Amp) took a little too long to blow. (1.3 sec.)
So, take a FULL SIZE 10Amp Fuse, and bend one leg over the top, and one over the bottom. Yes, it does matter which is which. (so do like the pictures, otherwise your fuse leg won't be near the battery). Don't scrunch them flat, as then it will be too thin. Leave them "curly" like I did, and then flatten and file them as necessary. the first 3 pics are rotating head over heels (right stays right).
The brown thing is a simple cabinet door bumper, from the hardware store.
MAKE SURE to Bend the Battery Ear at a twisty angle (see below). You need it to be over a bit (like mine is) to avoid landing on the battery's shrink wrap.
After I've got the shape and a tight fit in the mod, I file the "flats" (contact areas) true to the planes they meet with, and establish a bigger contact footprint.
The back of the fuse (where it says "10") has two exposed metal spots. Make sure your fuse is well made and those are RECESSED! Lastly, here's what can go wrong. Somewhere, something is touching something it shouldn't. the top leg must touch ONLY the battery. The bottom leg, ONLY the mod. And no other metal should touch anything else. If it does, the fuse won't blow!!! Meaning; THEN YOU HAVE NO PROTECTION!
So, take a FULL SIZE 10Amp Fuse, and bend one leg over the top, and one over the bottom. Yes, it does matter which is which. (so do like the pictures, otherwise your fuse leg won't be near the battery). Don't scrunch them flat, as then it will be too thin. Leave them "curly" like I did, and then flatten and file them as necessary. the first 3 pics are rotating head over heels (right stays right).
The brown thing is a simple cabinet door bumper, from the hardware store.
MAKE SURE to Bend the Battery Ear at a twisty angle (see below). You need it to be over a bit (like mine is) to avoid landing on the battery's shrink wrap.
After I've got the shape and a tight fit in the mod, I file the "flats" (contact areas) true to the planes they meet with, and establish a bigger contact footprint.
The back of the fuse (where it says "10") has two exposed metal spots. Make sure your fuse is well made and those are RECESSED! Lastly, here's what can go wrong. Somewhere, something is touching something it shouldn't. the top leg must touch ONLY the battery. The bottom leg, ONLY the mod. And no other metal should touch anything else. If it does, the fuse won't blow!!! Meaning; THEN YOU HAVE NO PROTECTION!
There is a big question mark in my head now. Why would you want to do this. My motto is if it ain't broke don't try to fix it. It's to hot to vape with a full battery so why would you want to do this. Hope nothing happens but is can see this on the news as" guy blows hand off with e-cig" and the media talking about how dangerous they are and giving vaping bad reputation
Here's the test of the 15 amp fuse . . .. I really think it is too slow.
Battery, however, is cold, cold and cold.
Battery, however, is cold, cold and cold.
Can the fuse mod go swimming? Maybe New Fort West should beta testing ground for the fuse mod.
Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 4
Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk 4
Pdib. Very nice walk through.
Have you considered using the existing spring base screw hole to secure a flat clip like mechanism that the bottom blade can slide into? This way any shake, rattle or rolls wont disturb your happy electrical connections.
Have you considered using the existing spring base screw hole to secure a flat clip like mechanism that the bottom blade can slide into? This way any shake, rattle or rolls wont disturb your happy electrical connections.
Could the fuse slide forward so the contact under the battery touches the door? And am I correct that paint/anodizing has to be removed under the bottom contact?
I have a quick question. These fuses are designed to run on a 12 volt car but the battery's are running at about 3.7 volts does that make a diffrence. If you hook the battery up to a 10 amp house breaker that is designed to run at 110 volt will the battery be able to trip it.
freakin awesome stuff, pdib (and cohorts)!
since i'm the poster boy for Rob's sleepless nights about all the bleeding edge sub-ohm stuff, as well as your warnings, and everyone else's caveats, i'll remain a happy voyeur.
but it is freakin awesome to follow all this
since i'm the poster boy for Rob's sleepless nights about all the bleeding edge sub-ohm stuff, as well as your warnings, and everyone else's caveats, i'll remain a happy voyeur.
but it is freakin awesome to follow all this
No, sir, I haven't. On account of I got me one of these ↓ and I know the guy who makes 'em . . . . .. .
Seriously, tho. It's not going to move. Also, and very important (you may need to be holding one of these to see what i mean . . . but) by the time it moved far enough to touch anything, the contact would no longer be under the battery's neg. contact surface. It can't move side-to-side, there's no room. And it can't move forward (you'd have to have it i hand to see) or back.
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These fuses will act the same on any DC voltage up to rated voltage.
Off track a little bit but since you ask about breakers:
Breakers are a different story.
Modern house breakers work on 2 separate principals magnetic and thermal.
When a short occurs over a certain current level they instant trip due to the magnetic force.
When an overload occurs below this threshold but above its rating heat built up by the overload will cause a bimetallic strip to trip it.
I have seen a perfectly fine 20 amp breaker take 40 amps for 30 seconds before it tripped due to heat.
(BTW if you have some older breaker styles like bulldog you are not protected by the magnetic instant trip)
That said a house breaker will only work properly on AC not on DC.
Some will trip above rating, some will trip below.
Makes me laugh when I see them used for car stereo stuff etc.
The DC breakers that are available would not be wise for this application due to the time required to trip from overload.
Wish I could show you in person the mechanism, but here is the demo version I use for showing people.
OUTSTANDING WORK pdib!
I'm definitely doing this. That voltage drop is very impressive and the response time in your vid on the .4Ω is right on!
You rock man!
Credit also to Seanap and ChrisEU for helping pdib to get this going and share.
I'm definitely doing this. That voltage drop is very impressive and the response time in your vid on the .4Ω is right on!
You rock man!
Credit also to Seanap and ChrisEU for helping pdib to get this going and share.
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No, sir, I haven't. On account of I got me one of these ↓ and I know the guy who makes 'em . . . . .. .
Seriously, tho. It's not going to move. Also, and very important (you may need to be holding one of these to see what i mean . . . but) by the time it moved far enough to touch anything, the contact would no longer be under the battery's neg. contact surface. It can't move side-to-side, there's no room. And it can't move forward (you'd have to have it i hand to see) or back.
Looks like a cool little fuse holder pdib, I guess it has another screw underneath. Can I see dz's initials on it ?
Does it fit in the reo, it looks to wide and deep ?
I see a guy stuffing a 30 amp fuse in the socket after he keeps snapping 10 amp fuses. These are the kind of things that go through my head .
You can't fix or prevent stupid.
I see a guy stuffing a 30 amp fuse in the socket after he keeps snapping 10 amp fuses
Yes people will be stupid, they will not understand that things are there for a reason and that a great deal of time went into designing it. If rob goes the route of useing a standard car fuse, it would be his responsibility to properly document exactly what kind of fuses to use, and attempt to mitigate any other type of fuse (or lack thereof) being used. I would NOT advise rob to use a standard car fuse design. This design works great for guys like us who have done research and built their own mounts. But I don't think its for the general public, too easy to bypass, too easy to put the wrong fuse in. My suggestion for rob is to design a mass producible mount for a specialty fuse (possibly a PTC). Then he can order these fuses in bulk and sell the exact fuse we need for cheap. No different than what we do now w/ the spring.
Short answer: The electrical charactaristics arn't as good.
The Vape Safe 2 (2cents) has a holding current of 3.5A, and a max current of 6A. That is just too low to make everybody happy. I did a lot of research into this a while back and was unable to find a good enough mod fuse for sub-ohmers. However, if there is one out there PLEASE let us know, it would be much easier to put a block of metal under the - battery and one of those fuses on the + battery terminal.
The REO is not broke, and we are NOT fixing anything. A stock REO is just fine (fantastic actually). This is really not recommended for just everyone to start doing. I love electronics and love to tinker, and I have a great understanding of the fundamental principles involved. E-cigs are just as much a hobby for me, and now that I dont have to constantly look for better mods/rba's/tanks/batteries I go OVER THE TOP with some unnessisary improvments... because I can, and I enjoy the heck out of it.
In regards to the hot vape: Thats the point, because now pdib can use a .6ohm coil instead of a .4ohm and get the exact same performance, AND much longer battery life.
In regards to safety: I'm not sure where you are coming from? We have posted the supporting data sheets that show the trip curves of the fuse, and pdib sacrificed a little guy to show how well it works... (it protects better than the spring because of a faster trip time, and no multen metal)
Yes, the fuse is just a thin piece of metal. As with the stock spring, it is highly inadvisable for the REO to go for a swim with the battery in place. If the fuse does get wet, just dry it off before putting power to it.
That is exactly what I am running right now, I soldered the bottom fuse tap to a spring base and screwed it in. Great minds think alike
The fuse could *potentially* slide slightly forward, but under no condition would the + leg touch the door, or any other part. The red of the fuse is plastic so it could rest against the door all day long with out a problem (currently how mine works). And yes the paint/anodizing has to be removed under the bottom contact, if in doubt use a DMM to check connectivity and ohms. This is in refrence to pdibs red mini fuse design, in regards to his blue 15A you are correct that could contact the door, but that is more of a proof of concept and not a final placement, if you do fold the legs back put some elecrical tape around them so they dont bypass the fuse.
Mr. Mundy did a good job explaining the difference, but I really dont understand why anyone would ever condsider using a 120V, AC, Breaker; inplace of a 12V, DC, Fuse????
As long as the fuse is rated for DC (almost all are) a higher voltage rating does not matter, the amps and the response time are all we care about. Heck we could use a 120V DC fuse as long as the trip characteristics were where we need them (and there were no minimum voltage ratings). So to answer your question: No the 12VDC fuse does not make ANY difference at 4VDC. Don't just take my word, look at pdibs real world results.
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