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The fuse will be compressed when the battery is inserted, so it'll all be tight. To answer your question it isn't secured to anywhere, it relies on the compression the battery gives to it. Again this is all adjustable depending on how much height you give to the bottom pin. I simply used some scotch tape and taped the fuse to the wall of the REO, just so it doesn't move when I remove the battery.
Hey, college pal, did you get yer atty yet?
What Jcalis said . .. .
here's the link to the pin . . . . I guess you'll need some firing pin material . . . . . (I think darkzero can help you with that . . .. maybe)
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/reos-mods/467679-dz-mod-ok-pdib-too-3.html#post10694618
Did you send it in a box or small envelope? If its envelope im gonna go check my mailbox. Otherwise the school would have sent me a notification.
Im gonna get some fuse first; the pin mod looks like it requires some tools and i got none. Do you dechrome the connection with just sand paper or what? I cant seem to take it out.
You have to disassemble some stuff to get the pin out. Watch Rob's video on it, and know that you CAN unscrew the tube nipple from the post . . . SOMETIMES. Never do it without all the parts to do a new one. I've tried to salvage 5 and succeeded on 3. And then, 1000 or 1500 grit paper. The spring is 80% of it tho.
Padded envelope . . . .~6x10
Padded envelope . . . .~6x10
It ll probably be here tomorrow then. Hopefully so will the new door!
1 day away from my first squonk!
1 day away from my first squonk!
This is pure epicness. Dhomes, Pdib, ChrisEU and SeaNap many thanks for your dedication! You guys rock, or rather (SXD let me borrow this from ya
I have to agree to this.
After picking up a pack of the 10 amp fuses at Advance Auto today I came home and set both my grands up. Just bent the prongs over and added a piece of adhesive felt bumper like that blue one that pdib posted. On a 1.2Ω coil, my voltage drop went from .4 to .2 with no other modifications. So yes, very impressive for such a simple mod that still has the safety net.
cheers
I knew there was something wrong with my mod! Where's my sammich!
Hey Jcal, your mod looks great! It really is pretty simple with that fues, if I could make a suggestion: Electrical tape around the end of the legs of the fuse (or hot glue) so that they don't make contact with the door and bypass the fuse as a precaution, or turn the fuse around so that if the + leg contacts the REO it would be on the painted side. My current fuse mod looks identical to yours its just facing the opposite way, and it has been working fine so as a percaution you might consider turning the fuse around (so you can see the "10") the back of the door is unfinished so if the + leg were to make contact it would bypass the fuse. How do you have that bottom (-) leg mounted? Did you drill a hole and screw it in or did you just sand the paint down and have it in there by pressure?
When ever you guys sand down the contacts, be it the bottom of the REO or the fuse legs themselves, make sure you put the NOALOX on there. It is conductive grease and will fill in all the microscopic gaps and make a more uniform connection.
My current set up yields .18V drop on a 1.1ohm coil, I sill have a ways to go, but once I fab an actual mount such as pdibs that number will go down.
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The way I have the fuse set up, it will never move unless by force of user. I taped its back (avoiding the legs) to the wall of the REO with some scotch tape, so it cannot move forward. I did not mount it or drill anything. I took the spring out, and placed the fuse there. I did sand down both REOs in order for the brass shim to work before. I found an angle that with the battery in, there's enough pressure to keep the whole thing together, and if the battery, by any chance slides out, the fuse won't.
I haven't tried higher res coils, but so far my 0.5 ohm coil on a fresh battery gets around 3.8V, a vdrop of 0.4V without any other modifications.
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I had bought some "liquid electrical tape" to dab on the nose of the top leg, lest it slide and touch the door. I applied it to my prototype (the fuse I blew with the hard short first); but by the time I had the full size fuse in there (maybe just the way I bent it and padded it), I could tell, it was going nowhere. If one wanted to be careful . . .. which I would recommend . .. . one could dab some stuff on there, like the Napper says. . .. . . or just put that piece of gum in front of it . . . it's lost its flavor anyway.
One thing to bear in mind. Whatever kind of version a person does. If inadvertent contact is made, there will be no way to tell, no alarm will sound. The REO will vape as though the fuse were set up right. SO! . . .. . . diligence, my friends . . . . the watchful eye . .. . . and the piece of gum.
One thing to bear in mind. Whatever kind of version a person does. If inadvertent contact is made, there will be no way to tell, no alarm will sound. The REO will vape as though the fuse were set up right. SO! . . .. . . diligence, my friends . . . . the watchful eye . .. . . and the piece of gum.
someone asked to see my version (mini fuse) with the battery in it.
I've made a couple more, and some small changes along the way. I have a chunk of cardboard superglued in the fuse slot (just to stabilize the little guy while I drill and grind the peas out of it). Also, you might notice a tab of plastic shim under the right side. (it is faux credit card ad-mailer stock. the front edge is bent up to grab it, so it looks thicker than it is.) What it is for is . .. . insert the fuse box, insert the battery, snug it all up with the shim. This allows for easy battery removal (when the shim is pulled and things are a hair loose) and protects the bottom of the battery from a real tight fit with a small metal object. I put a tiny pen spring under another one (with a little cup/hole to set it in); but I like this better. More control and ease of daily operations.
I've made a couple more, and some small changes along the way. I have a chunk of cardboard superglued in the fuse slot (just to stabilize the little guy while I drill and grind the peas out of it). Also, you might notice a tab of plastic shim under the right side. (it is faux credit card ad-mailer stock. the front edge is bent up to grab it, so it looks thicker than it is.) What it is for is . .. . insert the fuse box, insert the battery, snug it all up with the shim. This allows for easy battery removal (when the shim is pulled and things are a hair loose) and protects the bottom of the battery from a real tight fit with a small metal object. I put a tiny pen spring under another one (with a little cup/hole to set it in); but I like this better. More control and ease of daily operations.
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i could have sworn i just spotted Newman, skulking around, trying to sneak back in unnoticed to Reovil
You guys wouldn't heat shrink wrap the exposed part of the fuse?
And, what about 7.5A fuse? Any good for this vs. 10A fuse?
And, what about 7.5A fuse? Any good for this vs. 10A fuse?
shrink wrap might be good. give it a shot.
the 7.5A fuses have quite a bit more resistance (the point of this exercise is to reduce v-drop but maintain safety). And the 10 amp fuses blow super fast and don't tax the battery. We figured it was the right one for subΩ. It would be great, tho, if people tried 7.5A. No harm there.
the 7.5A fuses have quite a bit more resistance (the point of this exercise is to reduce v-drop but maintain safety). And the 10 amp fuses blow super fast and don't tax the battery. We figured it was the right one for subΩ. It would be great, tho, if people tried 7.5A. No harm there.
From .4 to .2 V drop in 5 minutes. 
Had stuff in parts bin.
No modification to Reo required.
Thanks!
Had stuff in parts bin.
No modification to Reo required.
Thanks!
There's a nice version, Mundy!
I made a few more of the mini fuse holders and they are no better than something like Mundy's version there. They are a PITA to make, they don't deliver any better, and they are delicate and finicky!
I made a few more of the mini fuse holders and they are no better than something like Mundy's version there. They are a PITA to make, they don't deliver any better, and they are delicate and finicky!
Great Job! I'm loving the use of those spade connectors, I have a few myself, I dont think I ever would have though of using them! How is the fit (let me know after field testing for a day)? I found that I may need slightly more height on one of the versions of the full size fuse set ups I made, but yours is looking good!
Congrats on the voltage drop! What battery are you using? What resistance coil are you running? Did you sand down the paint on the bottom of the REO?
Congrats on the voltage drop! What battery are you using? What resistance coil are you running? Did you sand down the paint on the bottom of the REO?
thanks, Napster. That's what drove me to make a few more. Having done that, I've come to the above conclusion. Seeing as how there's no chance of automotive fuse versions being "stock", nobody's gonna see em but me, and the 2 or 3 people I give one to. Trouble is, why give one to someone who is perfectly capable of bending their own? conversely, is it wise to give one to someone without even that much initiative or ability? Hmmmmmmm . . . . ..
I tried to make a 14 wrap coil with nichrome 24 ga lol. The multimeter read it fine and all, but weird enough it said it was a .3 ohm coil, while my 12 wrap nichrome 24ga was 0.5 ohms. With that in mind, I took the door of the REO off and fired it. Sure enough, after some firings, it stops. Yup, I blew the fuse and it worked wonders. Battery is intact and always remained cool. My multimeter is going bonkers, reading all batteries at 4.18V and going up to 4.35V, and now says that its internal resistance is .5 ohms. It's gone bad, time to get another one I guess.
lol. The multimeter read it fine and all, but weird enough it said it was a .3 ohm coil, while my 12 wrap nichrome 24ga was 0.5 ohms. With that in mind, I took the door of the REO off and fired it. Sure enough, after some firings, it stops. Yup, I blew the fuse and it worked wonders. Battery is intact and always remained cool. My multimeter is going bonkers, reading all batteries at 4.18V and going up to 4.35V, and now says that its internal resistance is .5 ohms. It's gone bad, time to get another one I guess.- Status
