i got the nickel rivets from hobby lobby - $3 for pfft - 100?? i'll get HRH to mail you some. I love sending metal in the mail - drives the scanners mad!
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That would be wonderful! Thank you, good Englishman! 
(i was just starting to wrack my brain on what I could use . . . and not coming up with much)
(i was just starting to wrack my brain on what I could use . . . and not coming up with much)
the "ideal" firing button will consist of derlin top hollowed out w/ a contact piece of ceramic glued or epoxy'd into the drilled out Derlin.
The ceramic would absorb the heat with the Derlin top section helping to manage it's brittleness.
The ceramic would absorb the heat with the Derlin top section helping to manage it's brittleness.
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I took a different approach. On the way back today. I left early enough to make it to Loews I picked up some brass screws.
Basically I pulled the button out and sanded it flat, drilled as close to center as I could eye ball it, countersunk it just a bit (didn't want to loose the lip keeping it in there and screwed the screw in. Sanded down the screw and make minor adjustments till the length/throw were good. I didn't care how it looked since the top would be capped on the outside and no one would see the inside except me.
This is a basic $2.50 fix. I have a repair kit but talked to a buddy of mine in fabrication who works in the Aerotech field to see if he can make a mold of spare button which I gave him and look at maybe trying some other higher heat absorbent materials. I told him to pull the lock pin since installing one won't be hard so long as the mold has the hole. I don't use the lock pins anyways but in case others do its an easy fix. Ceramic is ideal just brittle but the best for thermal absorption. Till I get the prototype of it this will work.
I purposely did a .3Ω coil w/ the 15amp again and dry fired the crap out of hit. I could tell the heated brass screw was softening the button so I just let it sit and cool but no exposed derlin to melt again. I was doing 10 second burns on a fresh battery prior to it really starting to soften. Just brass which can stand the heat.
^just use channel locks and bent it slowly on each side, don't bend it too far its easier to adjust it down more than bend them back up.
Small set of needle nose pliers. Took about 1 minute per fuse. I manipulated and tested 3 to ensure that they fired the mod. It is a very easy mod. Gotta prop my boy pdib. He's brilliant. Amazingly brilliant.
Just hold it in your hand....super easy mod sir.
edit: Oh and obviously if your putting the fuse in a painted REO sand the area clean to get good contact inside.
edit: Oh and obviously if your putting the fuse in a painted REO sand the area clean to get good contact inside.
Tried the fuse mod guys but haven't got a camera to take any pics.
Fuse pins bent really easy so could manipulate how I wanted.
My meter is at work so I can't check the v-drop but it definitely vapes good.
I am a little bit unsure about the battery compressing the pins and then becoming loose so have reverted back to the spring for now.
Excellent easy mod for a big gain but think long term securement needs to evolve a bit more for every day use on my part.
Fuse pins bent really easy so could manipulate how I wanted.
My meter is at work so I can't check the v-drop but it definitely vapes good.
I am a little bit unsure about the battery compressing the pins and then becoming loose so have reverted back to the spring for now.
Excellent easy mod for a big gain but think long term securement needs to evolve a bit more for every day use on my part.
Well... I've awakened from slumber round 2. Now that my weekend is almost gone, I guess I'll head down the road a bit. Cigar shop is right next to the auto parts shop. I do believe I'll be jumping between fuse mods and making more NEMP. Results to follow.
Awite, now that you got the redneck all high tech, here are my voltage drop numbers using Sterno's doohicky post to post on an RM2:
Battery out of mod: 4.11
Fired on mod with RM2 no coil: 4.11
Fired on mod with built RM2 and 10a fuse: 3.79
Fired on mod with spring (stock grand): 3.58
Fuse at .32 vs spring at .53 for the win.
Coil is 1.6 ohm 30 ga w/ rolled cotton wick
Keep I mind, all I did was remove spring and screw, file the paint off the bottom, put some electrical tape inside mod where fuse could contact mod, bend up a fuse and install it. NOTHING ELSE.
Pretty cool for a southern boy no?
Thanks pdib. Kick AYuss.
Battery out of mod: 4.11
Fired on mod with RM2 no coil: 4.11
Fired on mod with built RM2 and 10a fuse: 3.79
Fired on mod with spring (stock grand): 3.58
Fuse at .32 vs spring at .53 for the win.
Coil is 1.6 ohm 30 ga w/ rolled cotton wick
Keep I mind, all I did was remove spring and screw, file the paint off the bottom, put some electrical tape inside mod where fuse could contact mod, bend up a fuse and install it. NOTHING ELSE.
Pretty cool for a southern boy no?
Thanks pdib. Kick AYuss.
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So, I was thinking a bit about this button business. Couple things. One is that my buttons would slowly wear/melt away. (@ ~.4Ω) Meaning, they wouldn't lose their shape in a week or a few days. Two is, a while back, I made an association between sparking/arcing and button "melt". I definitely noticed that when I was having sparking issues (at a particular moment), my battery's top end would be warm. The other thing I was thinking is that, with darkzero's rolled firing pin shape and my brass sheathing, I cured .2V of V-drop. That means that I got rid of X amount of resistance in the firing pin. Resistance is what causes things to heat up. So, I did just put a brand new button in the REO that I did the 10A fuse hard short test with. I'll keep an eye on it, but I'm thinking it isn't going to show much wear after a while. We shall see.
True enough, I'm not vaping at .3Ω on a modded REO; so I can't test it like that. And, since S.Trunker's Darling wife (hiya darlin'!) is going to be so sweet and send me some rivets, I'm definitely gonna try that. (short term - long term . .. it will be a certain benefit). So, I'm not gonna be able to "prove" anything.
True enough, I'm not vaping at .3Ω on a modded REO; so I can't test it like that. And, since S.Trunker's Darling wife (hiya darlin'!) is going to be so sweet and send me some rivets, I'm definitely gonna try that. (short term - long term . .. it will be a certain benefit). So, I'm not gonna be able to "prove" anything.
Awite, now that you got the redneck all high tech, here are my voltage drop numbers using Sterno's doohicky post to post on an RM2:
Battery out of mod: 4.11
Fired on mod with RM2 no coil: 4.11
Fired on mod with built RM2 and 10a fuse: 3.79
Fired on mod with spring (stock grand): 3.58
Fuse at .32 vs spring at .52 for the win.
Coil is 1.6 ohm 30 ga w/ rolled cotton wick
Keep I mind, all I did was remove spring and screw, file the paint off the bottom, put some electrical tape inside mod where fuse could contact mod, bend up a fuse and install it. NOTHING ELSE.
Pretty cool for a southern boy no?
Thanks pdib. Kick AYuss.
Nicely done, professor_X. The numbers you got reflect the resistance of your coil, methinks. Seeing as how you're running a 1.6Ω coil, your spring was creating less drag on the system than a subΩ would. Still, I imagine you can feel a marked difference vaping it at ~3.8V modded VS. 3.6V w/ spring?
.7ohm coil, 4.10v charge with 10a fuse mod and brass shim wrapped pin yielded 3.75v under load.
Sent from the zoo using Tapatypo 2
That feeling is pride created by self performing this awesome little revision and the knowledge that my mod is running more efficiently equating to a better seat of pants vape for sure
I like it.
Super, didn't it go against your grain to remove some paint. That just seems like it isn't you. You must have thought about that for a while before doing.That feeling is pride created by self performing this awesome little revision and the knowledge that my mod is running more efficiently equating to a better seat of pants vape for sure
I like it.
I pimped pdib's mod on the REOsmods Facebook page and on our brand new micro coilers FB group / page and it's gaining traction
.2v by basically doing like almost nothing?
3.7 is new 3.9? I like it
.2v by basically doing like almost nothing?
3.7 is new 3.9? I like it
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