I need to see the guts of your Woodie, Matt. Elsewise, I don't know how to configure connections.
Wow, thats great SuperX that it's working out so well for you, thanks for sharing your v-drop results!
When I showed you guys how I did the auto fuse w/o having a custom mount it was really just for proof of concept, it seems like everybody has taken a shine to it which is great but I've noticed that sometimes (depending on the way the fuse is mounted) that my connection can be a little spotty. Pdibs custom mount is fantastic and thats what I really wanted to create, and also a few posts back mundy showed us a great way to mount the fuse with the spade connector, big props to those two. Having a solid mount is key to maintaining a solid connection through out the day, I've noticed that my voltage has verried from 3.3V to 3.98V under load just by the position of the "loose" bent fuse. Just food for thought
How is the spring plate attached to the gizmo under it? Screwed from above? below? Slipped over a tab and crimped? (not crimped?)
I think I have an idea.
good points there, SeaNap (discoverer of the fuse we use!). My twisty-leg take off or your temporary fuse-tap rig was supposed to be a patch before release of new hardware. I think it's quite safe. Everyone who has modded and posted seems to have taken the time to think it through and devise their own methods to avoid inadvertent contact of top fuse leg and REO body. I'm inclined to see what Rob offers, before going thru the trouble of making a permanent solution on this front. That said, Mundy's screw down method is best.
The only difference I've seen is that I'm the only one running the big fuse with feet facing front. That way I can see what's going on in there. BTW: I have held my Grand with my fingers on it's shoulders (holding it the wide way across) and swung the thing, repeatedly thumping my knee with the bottom edge of door, and I can't get my fuse to budge.