SPRING? . . . . .. what spring?

[SeaNap]

I am so glad that the fuse protected the short, its one thing to lok at the data sheets and trip curves and know that in theory it should work perfectly, and its a whole other thing to have it be repeatedly field tested with spectacular results

I sounds like you really made that mod your own and the rubber mount is key to keeping everything level and im not sure where all of you guys take your REO but mine is constantly in motion being thrown around in my car, or work bag so I just wanted to make sure that you guys had a good solid connection because with out it the fuse won't work as well as it should in regards to v-drop but the fuse short circuit protection would stilll be just fine.

 

[super_X_drifter]

I am so glad that the fuse protected the short, its one thing to lok at the data sheets and trip curves and know that in theory it should work perfectly, and its a whole other thing to have it be repeatedly field tested with spectacular results

I sounds like you really made that mod your own and the rubber mount is key to keeping everything level and im not sure where all of you guys take your REO but mine is constantly in motion being thrown around in my car, or work bag so I just wanted to make sure that you guys had a good solid connection because with out it the fuse won't work as well as it should in regards to v-drop but the fuse short circuit protection would stilll be just fine.

Yes. I am owning this. Tomorrow ima head to home cheapo and see if I can obtain some connectors like Mundy showed and try to implement it. Right now my daily driver grand is begging for a screw in its underside.

I will also implement in my stash grand

Life is good

 

[dhomes]

hell freezes over! super_X modding his REO!?!?!?!?!

 

[ltrainer]

hell freezes over! super_X modding his REO!?!?!?!?!

The horror, the horror...spoken like Marlon Brando in Apocalypse Now.

 

[pdib]

Supe, everyone, when I stated that the legs had to bend one way and not the other . . .. it was for a specific orientation. Pay me no mind, ya'll are killin' it.

 

[Xobeloot]

Here is my rough mock-up for mini fuses

One hdmi cable cap and 2 tiny brass screws.

When the battery is in, the hdmi cap squeezes completing the circuit through the fuse.

Sent from the zoo using Tapatypo 2

 

[Spunky]

me?????????

 

[super_X_drifter]

hell freezes over! super_X modding his REO!?!?!?!?!

I'm a little thick sometimes mi hermano it took me a while understand the whole Voltage Drop thing and it's applicability to my specific vape demands. My first lack of understanding centered around my belief that it was only applicable to the bashers of my favorite mod. I mean, these REOs kick straight AYuss right off the shelf, right?

Then the more I read the more I began to understand where you guys were coming from and what was the driving force behind your desire to improve the only thing keeping me from being r aped by Phillip Morris.

So I relaxed my hard line stance and took it all in.

Then I realized what you were doing was similar in concept to micro coils - making the already kick AYuss even more kick AYuss. Then when I saw dibbys pix of the bent fuse blades, it was like watching juice junky's picture RBA rebuild tutorial - I said "I can do that".

So now you created a monster that understands the quest driven by improved efficiency. I'm all in. I'm now thinking how I can improve the bottom of my button what if the firing pin had a hole in it and the bottom of the button was brass / copper / metal of some sort that passed thru the hole (to contact the battery nipple directly) but had a rim around it that contacted the surface of the pin when you pressed down to flow the charge thru to the 510?

 

[Xobeloot]

makes sense. we've already seen a brass contact drilled into the button. One could easily drill a hole through the firing pin and, in essence, screw the pin to the button utilizing the brass contact on the button as the firing pin.

I wonder how this would work if thicker brass shim were utilized as the firing pin instead of coating the stainless in thin brass?

 

[pdib]

Yeah, the only reason I'm sheathing in brass is cause I've got those materials on hand. I would certainly love to go with solid brass, or something even fancier. Also, the SS has the right springiness to it and such. If I ordered some brass (it would pro'ly have to be in quantity), I have no idea whether it would have the right rigidity, flexibility etc.

Xobe, I adore your idea for a fuse holder. Please report in on whether it proves out. That is a very streamlined and super easy solution.

X_drift, you got my wheels turning! What a great brainstorm you had there. Main thing I'm pondering is what mechanism or shape assures solid contact of brass pin and firing plate.

 

[super_X_drifter]

Yeah, the only reason I'm sheathing in brass is cause I've got those materials on hand. I would certainly love to go with solid brass, or something even fancier. Also, the SS has the right springiness to it and such. If I ordered some brass (it would pro'ly have to be in quantity), I have no idea whether it would have the right rigidity, flexibility etc.

Xobe, I adore your idea for a fuse holder. Please report in on whether it proves out. That is a very streamlined and super easy solution.

X_drift, you got my wheels turning! What a great brainstorm you had there. Main thing I'm pondering is what mechanism or shape assures solid contact of brass pin and firing plate.

The 2 metals (pin and contact) would wanna be same material to avoid reaction between dissimilar metals like they teach us architect types? Dunno but wanna see what you come up with hoss

 

[Xobeloot]

Sent from the zoo using Tapatypo 2

 

[ltrainer]

Installed the brass shim on my Grand as per pdib. I ran the shim under the spring and put the screw through the shim material and then into the spring to hold it down. I am running my Grand with a Kick 2. The Kick 2 has short circuit protection built in so I feel OK doing this otherwise I would not have done this.

I am running a 1.3 ohm coil at 10.7 watts.

THe Kick2 has a cut off when the battery reaches 2.7 volts under load. I run my Grand until the Kick cuts off power. When I pull my batteries they are typically around 3.5-3.55 volts. With the shim in when I pull them they are 3.23-3.29 volts. I am gaining about .25-.3 volts.

I just checked how much more vape time this gives me and early indicators only show about 1/2 hour. This surprised me. I thought it would be longer. I'll recheck this several times.

THe only reason I did this is to extend battery time. I do change my batteries about the same as I did with 18650s but the vape is consistent.

 

[dhomes]

I'm a little thick sometimes mi hermano it took me a while understand the whole Voltage Drop thing and it's applicability to my specific vape demands. My first lack of understanding centered around my belief that it was only applicable to the bashers of my favorite mod. I mean, these REOs kick straight AYuss right off the shelf, right?

Then the more I read the more I began to understand where you guys were coming from and what was the driving force behind your desire to improve the only thing keeping me from being r aped by Phillip Morris.

So I relaxed my hard line stance and took it all in.

Then I realized what you were doing was similar in concept to micro coils - making the already kick AYuss even more kick AYuss. Then when I saw dibbys pix of the bent fuse blades, it was like watching juice junky's picture RBA rebuild tutorial - I said "I can do that".

So now you created a monster that understands the quest driven by improved efficiency. I'm all in. I'm now thinking how I can improve the bottom of my button what if the firing pin had a hole in it and the bottom of the button was brass / copper / metal of some sort that passed thru the hole (to contact the battery nipple directly) but had a rim around it that contacted the surface of the pin when you pressed down to flow the charge thru to the 510?

Cool Super_X

I've never trashed the REO, you know the story of how I got into buying one (btw, just ordered the second one, Damn you all!)

Just wanted to take into what TomzGreat / BigCloudz were complaining about. Since I had been modding my mods before buying a REO I just knew i had to do something about it.

With the Aluminum body the only reason for the not-so-good performance at really low ohms had to be the contacts.

the rest well... you know the story

I think it's great that out of a community effort / interest the REO will see a revision that will make it an even before device than it already was!

 

[Xobeloot]

The hdmi cap is working quite well.

I added a larger brass screw to the neg contact. It is cut down to barely go through the hdmi cap.

All in all it is a simple thing to do, but i'll be looking for some ptfe or plastic stock to make a cleaner, more permanent solution.

The black fuzz in there was the loop side of velcro used as a pad to raise the fuse w/ the smaller screw. Took it out with the larger screw.


Add: on a ~.7-.8Ω coil, I am seeing almost identical v-drop numbers as with the full-sized fuse mod. With the brassed firing pin, I am seeing a v-drop of approx .5v from 4.2v

That being said, I've been vaping the same battery since this afternoon and upon last check, it was still at ~3.7v and hitting like a fresh battery.

 

[super_X_drifter]

Cool Super_X

I've never trashed the REO, you know the story of how I got into buying one (btw, just ordered the second one, Damn you all!)

Just wanted to take into what TomzGreat / BigCloudz were complaining about. Since I had been modding my mods before buying a REO I just knew i had to do something about it.

With the Aluminum body the only reason for the not-so-good performance at really low ohms had to be the contacts.

the rest well... you know the story

I think it's great that out of a community effort / interest the REO will see a revision that will make it an even before device than it already was!

My man, you have always been good with me, you envelope pushing brother down south

Yep I followed your story since day one and damn glad your here

 

[Alexander Mundy]

Yeah, the only reason I'm sheathing in brass is cause I've got those materials on hand. I would certainly love to go with solid brass, or something even fancier. Also, the SS has the right springiness to it and such. If I ordered some brass (it would pro'ly have to be in quantity), I have no idea whether it would have the right rigidity, flexibility etc.

Xobe, I adore your idea for a fuse holder. Please report in on whether it proves out. That is a very streamlined and super easy solution.

X_drift, you got my wheels turning! What a great brainstorm you had there. Main thing I'm pondering is what mechanism or shape assures solid contact of brass pin and firing plate.

I think I have some brass feeler gauges in the garage, bet they would work.

BTW, check out this beryllium copper EMI shielding finger stock used for RF cabinet doors.
I caught my shirt sleeve on one like this one time and it went "sproingggg".
Each of those fingers is wider and longer than the spare Reo Grand strip I have.
Give you any ideas?

 

[pdib]

I think I have some brass feeler gauges in the garage, bet they would work.

BTW, check out this beryllium copper EMI shielding finger stock used for RF cabinet doors.
I caught my shirt sleeve on one like this one time and it went "sproingggg".
Each of those fingers is wider and longer than the spare Reo Grand strip I have.
Give you any ideas?

Why yes, sir it does, I've a good mind to run down to my mailbox in about 3 days and peek in there to see if you sent it just that fast!

 

[dhomes]

and it went "sproingggg".
:

Somehow thats the best line i have read here in ecf

 

[ukeman]

do carry on "techno persons" ...

for those of us who can't and thus shouldn't be delving in these pleasures, no doubt thanks to your scientific experiments,

Redeyedancer is working up an upgrade kit with, from what i could tell from his email, a better spring, and a new positive contact pin.

Happy dance.... at least a month out.

this "kit" he said will NOT have a fuse for sure (too much possiblility of someone messing with it - bypassing it), but we can look forward to something like .2 Ohms gain from the pos. pin, and .2 Ohms from the spring.

thanks from the peanut gallery.