SS Coil: Maximum Temperature?

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Gentle Smoke

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Sorry I'm physics challenged. However, when looking at Innokin's SS coils, I noticed that the box suggested a maximum of 475F. As I'm in the market for a tank for 100% VG / temperature control, it appears that this coil would be inadequate. I've looked at Kangertech and Crown IV SS coils also but, they make no recommendation. Therefore, based on stated resistance and recommended power, how do I make a judgment as to which produces more heat?
 

bombastinator

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Remember that famous book/movie farenheight 451? That’s the temperature that cellulose (paper and cotton) spontaneously burst into flames. You don’t WANT to vape at really high temps. 475 is actually really high. Makes me wonder what they made the coil out of. I personally try to keep my temps below 440 or so. The idea in vaping is to NOT burn stuff. It’s the whole point really. There’s only one time where a coil wants to go over those temps and that’s for dry burning, which coil cartridges can’t handle in the first place. That’s an RBA thing for cleaning wrapped coils only, and you sure as heck don’t breathe the nasty brown smoke that comes off a coil when it’s dry burning.
 

Gentle Smoke

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Hello Bomb: Forgive me if I divert from my original thread but, could you diagnose a TC issue? Presently using a Vaporesso Armour Pro w/ 0.3 ohm ceramic heater. In TC mode (TCR - .0092, 38W), running at 460-470F produces feeble clouds. Alternately, running in watt mode at 30 W's turns it into a cloud machine. So what's going wrong here? I would also add that Vaporesso has a web page that says use TCR .0100 for SS (I've tried, no difference) and that this coil is actually SS come from retailers and not Vaporesso.
 

bombastinator

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Hello Bomb: Forgive me if I divert from my original thread but, could you diagnose a TC issue? Presently using a Vaporesso Armour Pro w/ 0.3 ohm ceramic heater. In TC mode (TCR - .0092, 38W), running at 460-470F produces feeble clouds. Alternately, running in watt mode at 30 W's turns it into a cloud machine. So what's going wrong here? I would also add that Vaporesso has a web page that says use TCR .0100 for SS (I've tried, no difference) and that this coil is actually SS come from retailers and not Vaporesso.
Heh. You picked the wrong guy for TC sorcery. I could never make straight TC work well for me either, so I dropped too much money on a therion and then a VTX 200 squonk so I could choose idiot mode and just use replay. All I can really tell you how to do is hit the replay button :/ There are TC masters around here, I’m just not one of them.

I did do a bunch of reading on it a while ago (to no avail) and there were folks getting good vapes at as little as 350f. No idea how they manage it.
 

Punk In Drublic

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Looking on the interwebs there are many Temperature Coefficient ratings for Stainless Steel. Given the different grades and alloy composition there is no telling which one is correct. Just keep in mind that the lower the rating the greater the calculated change in temperature which can be quite vast. The difference between 0100 as noted by Vaporesso (which I am going to assume is a rounded 0.00100) and 0.000879 as noted by Steam Engine is over 30 °C at a 0.1 ohm rise in resistance.

Another challenge is we can not see the live resistance on many devices which I feel is an important value for calculating the coil temp. So, working with the tools we have everything becomes a best guesstimate.

Also keep in mind with the CCell, your device is trying to calculate the temperature of the coil, not the temperature of the ceramic heating element, which will be different.
 

Gentle Smoke

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Mordacai: Thanks for the advice. Tried your settings but, struck out. Did like the preheat concept. And for clarification, I'm using the GT Core cCell vs the general cCell and Euc ceramic.

Just bought an RTA and SS316L wire yesterday. One month into vaping and I've had it with Vaporesso coils. Kanthal that oxidizes so quickly it burns your throat, ceramic that loses all flavor within an hour of use and then there's the company that isn't responsible enough to tell you about their products and treats you like you're trying to steal China's state secrets if you ask them a question. Sorry, that just slipped out of my spleen but, I feel better.
 
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Mordacai

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Gentle Smoke, I use the GT CCell's myself. The first version at 0.5 ohms is the one that I use, there's the 2 version at 0.3 ohms.

Did you set a custom TCR value? Sorry for asking, but just need to check.

And also have you tried to thin your liquid a little with Distilled Water, I know from experience that 70%VG/30%PG will work with them. I tried Bad Drip at 75%VG/25%VG and added 100%VG Nicotine Shots and ended up burning my CCell out, gave a weak vape with an increasing awful taste.
 

Mordacai

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Gentle Smoke, that's the main issue with TCR. You can never know the exact value, you have to find out through trial and error (mostly error) due to material composition and manufacturing processes. So if you buy SS316L wire from 3 different manufacturers, you'll end up with 3 different TCR values.

And I presume that you found out if you go to max farenheit and keep on going it changes to celcius.
 

Gentle Smoke

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Just in case anyone's reading this one month later, an update on my TC issues. I appears I was complaining about a lack of heat with TC. I stated above that I finally settled on a TCR value of .0120. Clearly that's high for SS316. What I have subsequently found out is that my Vaporesso Armour Pro sets resistance on the low side, hence I run cold. What I do now is take a hit to warm the coil then reset the battery and resistance to 0.31 (0.3 coil). This allows me to push the TCR down to normal levels (0.009's) and to vape at a temperature consistent with the boiling point.
 

Punk In Drublic

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I do not own the Armour but own the Polar which is based on the same board. Not a fair comparison to the Armour but have found the Polar to be quite consistent to reading resistance with both my DNA devices on my Ohm meter.

If using the CCell, I have found through monitoring with Escribe on a DNA device that one has to run these coils much hotter than a typical SS coil. I have concluded this is due to the fact the ceramic is always going to operate at a different temperature than the SS wire that is used to heat it. And because of these differences, the device does not scale back power in the same fashion as a typical coil would when the saturation of the wick becomes less of a cooling influence.
 

Punk In Drublic

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It’s not that it needs more power. It’s that it is required to operate at a higher temperature in order to bring the ceramic to a temperature needed to vaporize the juice. The wire does not vaporize the juice, the ceramic does.

The wire is nothing more than ~60mm of 29awg SS316L – this alone is the equivalent of a 3mm ID 5 wrap coil of the same gauge which can be vaped at as low as 8ish watts. But you require 20 to 30 watts for the wire to heat the ceramic in order to produce vapor. By using the correct TCR value for the wire, we can get a good idea of what temperature the wire is operating at. But if your goal is to control the temperature, what is the temperature of the ceramic?

One of the objectives of Temp Control is to scale back power as your wick starts to dry in order to mitigate dry burns. In a typical coil/cotton config, your coil still hit’s your prescribed temperature. But the cooling effect of the juice, or lack of, dictates how much power is needed to reach that prescribed temperature.

With the attached example, coil temperature is indicated in red, the applied power in green. Subject A is a fully saturated Fused Clapton. Power is consistent and does not change. You can even see how it struggles to reach the prescribed temperature because of the cooling effect the juice has. Subject B is the same Fused Clapton as the wick is drying out. It hits the prescribed temp for a very brief moment then immediately scaled back.

Subject C is a CCell with a full tank of juice. Subject D is the same CCell in an empty tank with about 3 to 4 dry hits prior to plotting this graph. C and D are identical. Technically they should plot in the same fashion as A and B. But the power does not change because the wire is not influenced by how saturated the ceramic is. You do see it scale back but any bare wire will do the same.

TC.jpg
 

Punk In Drublic

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DNA devices allow you to connect them to a computer via USB and run a device monitor software. You can monitor everything from battery voltage, coil current draw, coil temps etc. Plus adjust and customize your DNA mod. If you are serious about TC, you can not beat a DNA. The software is free but DNA mods do carry a premium price.

As for the CCell – not against using TC with these coils, but do think it is important to know how they operate. I was a huge fan of the CCell, and spoke very highly of them here on ECF. I knew of the many reports of ceramic dust but ignored them all until I found what I suspect was ceramic dust within a new blister pack.

And if I may give DNA devices another shameless plug, another great feature with their newer 75C and 250C boards is Replay. Replay works kinda similar as TC, but instead of mucking with TCR values and temperatures, you take a few vapes and choose which one you prefer most. The device will record that vape and mimic it for all remaining vapes no matter how saturated your wick is. Works very well, especially with RTA’s that can be finicky to wick.
 

madstabber

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If anyone is looking for a cheap dna mod vaporrange has a quality mod with a dna 250 chip. It isn’t the newer 250c chip and therefore no “replay” but still you get great tc in a great mod for half a hundred.
Oni 167W DNA250 TC Mod

Oh and there’s a 10% off code as well, I think it’s happyholidays10% or something very similar
 
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