I just started using mesh today, but I've been reading about it for the past week or so and thought I knew enough to be off to a good start once the materials came in the mail. I roll my mesh without a paperclip as tightly as I can, which still leaves a small hole in the center; insert a straightened paperclip through the hole and gently bend for a U-shape to fill the two holes on my Smoktech ViVi tank (Hyper SRT II); oxidize my U-wick 3 times on a stovetop burner without quenching; drip with juice and burn 3 more times; give it a 4/5 coil wrap before inserting wick into holes; then connect to posts and dry burn to test. I've used the same preparation method for small straight wicks in my Phoenix Bully, too, skipping the paperclip-bending step.
So far I've made about 8+ wicks and re-recoiled a few of them to try to fix hot spot sand shorts, but I can't seem to get it down. I can't get rid of the burnt metallic taste for the life of me, and the outer legs are always giving me hot spots. On top of that, my resistance is constantly fluctuating even after double wrapping around the spring-loaded posts on the ViVi tank.
So with all that in mind, I have a few questions that someone may be able to help me with:
1). When I oxidize the mesh, is it always supposed to turn a uniform gray color? Some spots on mine are lighter than others, and no amount of heating seems to make them turn darker.
2.). Is it possible to wrap the wick too tightly? As tight as my fingers can pull it around the wick, my coil usually loosens up when I'm connecting to the posts so I can see space between the coil and the mesh, so I'm wondering if I can dig into the mesh with it. Some say that will choke the wick, but capillary action should still take place all thorought the center of it, right?
3.) Aside from getting the coil tighter around the mesh, what can I do to remove the burnt metallic taste? Even on the couple occasions when the coil sat neatly on the wick, it still tastes like metal and burnt liquid. I try to stay under 8 watts with my Provari, so I know I'm not cranking up the voltage too high.
Any information that someone here can offer would be greatly appreciated. I'm losing a little more of my mind every minute with this *******, ************* ss mesh.
Sorry for the novel; thanks for your time.
So far I've made about 8+ wicks and re-recoiled a few of them to try to fix hot spot sand shorts, but I can't seem to get it down. I can't get rid of the burnt metallic taste for the life of me, and the outer legs are always giving me hot spots. On top of that, my resistance is constantly fluctuating even after double wrapping around the spring-loaded posts on the ViVi tank.
So with all that in mind, I have a few questions that someone may be able to help me with:
1). When I oxidize the mesh, is it always supposed to turn a uniform gray color? Some spots on mine are lighter than others, and no amount of heating seems to make them turn darker.
2.). Is it possible to wrap the wick too tightly? As tight as my fingers can pull it around the wick, my coil usually loosens up when I'm connecting to the posts so I can see space between the coil and the mesh, so I'm wondering if I can dig into the mesh with it. Some say that will choke the wick, but capillary action should still take place all thorought the center of it, right?
3.) Aside from getting the coil tighter around the mesh, what can I do to remove the burnt metallic taste? Even on the couple occasions when the coil sat neatly on the wick, it still tastes like metal and burnt liquid. I try to stay under 8 watts with my Provari, so I know I'm not cranking up the voltage too high.
Any information that someone here can offer would be greatly appreciated. I'm losing a little more of my mind every minute with this *******, ************* ss mesh.
Sorry for the novel; thanks for your time.