SS Mesh setup on a mech, don't shorts burn battery?

[Njt07]

My experience with a mech type mod is the Reo mini. If there is a short it collapses the battery spring and im out a mod until I get a new spring.

I am trying to understand how people setup a SS mesh wick on a mechanical mod. Are you using one of those short protection discs or am I missing something?

If the spring doesn't collapse, wouldn't that cause a battery failure? This is especially a big question for me as I like the non oxidized wick setup for a Mesh wick but using a gripper vv, which turns off if there is a hard short.

BTW I did search through the forums and through google and couldnt find anything specific to setting up on a mech, plenty on setting up a SS Mesh wick which I can do already but using a non mech. I ask because I burned out my last gripper vv chip trying to put it into a metal enclosure...and used epoxy as the insulator instead of hot glue (JB Qwik must conduct just enough because I fried two chips...)

 

[Baditude]

Here you go: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-tips-vapors-looking-try-their-first-rba.html

Please practice safe vaping.

 

[Njt07]

Thanks for that, but it still doesn't answer my question. I saw a post that the poster said that in a mech, you can pulse the power to create oxidization because it wont shut off the mod.

What my question revolves around is, if there are shorts, and there will be especially in a non oxidized wick, how is it possible to set up a genny wick without short protection and ruining the battery?

 

[UncleChuck]

When pulsing out shorts it's best to do very very short pulses at first. If the amp draw jumps to 10-15 amps for a split second there won't be any damage, assuming you are using proper batteries, which you should already be doing regardless of what device you use them in.

Good quality batteries have a peak amp draw limit that is above what the amp draw would be while ironing out a short. This means that as long as it's only for short periods of time, like the quarter of a second it takes for a short to kill itself off, you'll be fine. This is why the pulse method is best done with very short pulses initially, and then longer ones later to manipulate the coil (if you have to) or to get it glowing evenly.

With RBAs and mechs there really isn't more danger. It's just that there are no safety nets if you screw up. YOU are the safety feature, the only one, by making sure you know what's going on and what will happen.

Good question about the hot springs though, I'm not sure but I don't think the very short high amperage load is enough to collapse the spring. I don't have springs on my mechs so I can't say for sure though.

But basically, there is no damage to the batteries because the high amp load happens for only a split second, and it is usually within the peak amp rating of the battery anyway. Again I'll stress that quality batteries are a must for safety reasons, and they perform a lot better under load too.

 

[txredxj]

people run sub ohms that are pretty much dead shorts and are fine. if you are pre-oxidizing your mesh you shouldnt have problems. for the spring to heat up enough to collapse it would have to have more resistance than your coil. if it did collapse that just means your micky mouse mod sucks and should look else where. your coil will blow far before you actually melt something. hell you will have to let go of your mod before it goes critical lol

 

[Njt07]

cool thanks guys.

My Reo mini doesn't like the phoenix drippers (floating positive post), or the A7 if the center positive post is pushed over to these side when screwing it on, thus the collapsed springs. BTW my reo mini is definitely not a mickey mouse mod...

Ill have to try this instead of messing around with my expensive vv and vw mods, it cant be too good for their circuitry.