SSGGTS/UFSv2 help please...

[I'mGatMan!]

Hello, people. I started vaping about 4 weeks ago. My first--and only--mod is SSGGTS #434, to which I added a UFS a week later. I have been using my GGTS/UFS setup since then and have been spending a lot of time trying to master it. I suffered the typical juice dumps and leakages, and think I'm pretty familiar with it now.

I do have some issues, however:

I get leakage into my battery tube from time to time and find juice on my batteries. I replaced both of tiny o-rings inside of UFS stem, but still get some leakage.

Secondly, I filled my UFS with some Grandpa's Cough Medicine yesterday, and have kept the juice control completely shut, but I'm still able to vape, and the juice level has decreased visibly. How is my juice level decreasing if the juice control is staying closed? How am I able to vape at all?

Just so you know, all my pieces are brand new from Bruce.

Any advice you can provide would be much appreciated.

Thank you in advance,

Jason

 

[Major]

Would you share with us what you are using for atties? Or if it's cartos. Also please tell us the "style" you are using yopur UFS in (short mode or regular or extended".

I have a good idea what your problem may be but please share the other info with us so we can ber direct in helping you and not have to offer multiple fixes that would only delay and frustrate your needed help!

 

[I'mGatMan!]

I am using Bruce's DC 1.5 attys, and the UFS is complete with the plexi piece. Thank you, Major.

 

[Major]

So you're using 510's yes and no adapters? My very first suggestion is to make sure the O-rings are properly lubricated. In this case, pay special attention to the one that goes around the atty entension under the very top cap.

Once that is done, take your tank from the bottom cup as you would when changing an atty. Turn the bottom cup (which is also the juice control) and close it completely after putting an atty in place. Make sure there are no gaps or anything that might indicate the atty itself is unscrewing.

That is where the top O-ring becomes so important. WIthout proper lubrication, it will grab your atty and when you open your juice control, it will unscrew the atty whatever distance the conmtrol is opened.

Try that and let us know please!

 

[I'mGatMan!]

510 1.5 ohm DC attys from COV, yes.

Major, how often should I lube my o-rings? I previously used petroleum jelly, but I have a tube of Noalox waiting for my return to Miami tomorrow evening.

In terms of that top cap, I already learned my lesson with that via a few dumps.
Which other o-ring could be a culprit? The one at the bottom of the UFS collector tank seems larger than it should be, and for some reason whenever I unscrew the engraved tube to switch a battery, the plunger falls away from the o-ring and juice drips out.

 

[Major]

Ah! Have you checked to make sure the two small 2mm x 1mm O-rings that are under the black delrin insulator are intact? From you desription of a loose contact pin, sounds like they aren't.

That would certainly explain the leakage. Also, one of our resident experts Para helped me by pointing out that the two O-rings at the top of the connector can wear slightly flat on one side or the other. I would check that as well.

As to Noalox! DON'T use that around your UFS at all! It isn't a safe substance to be coming in contact with your juice! As a fact, Imeo discourages its use entirely as there has been no proven/documented benefit from its use. Imeo recommends Vaseline/Petroleum Jelly only.

AS for how often? I am OCD so I do it very lightly and lube regular points of contact every time I am changing an atty or have other reason to have the O-ring in hand. That isn't required but with the supoer light coat I use, it can't hurt!

 

[wigglr]

One piece of advice that I would suggest is when you're putting the UFS onto the collection tank, make sure the O-ring above the threads of the UFS (the juice control ring part of the UFS) is barely showing or not showing at all when the juice control is closed. Really give it a nice push in there before you start screwing it in!

And what major said is good -- make sure the center pin has all the o-rings!

I also keep the top o-ring (the one that goes on the top of the atty) very well lubed so it doesn't come undone when messing with the juice control

 

[I'mGatMan!]

Ah! Have you checked to make sure the two small 2mm x 1mm O-rings that are under the black delrin insulator are intact? From you desription of a loose contact pin, sounds like they aren't.

That would certainly explain the leakage. Also, one of our resident experts Para helped me by pointing out that the two O-rings at the top of the connector can wear slightly flat on one side or the other. I would check that as well.

As to Noalox! DON'T use that around your UFS at all! It isn't a safe substance to be coming in contact with your juice! As a fact, Imeo discourages its use entirely as there has been no proven/documented benefit from its use. Imeo recommends Vaseline/Petroleum Jelly only.

AS for how often? I am OCD so I do it very lightly and lube regular points of contact every time I am changing an atty or have other reason to have the O-ring in hand. That isn't required but with the supoer light coat I use, it can't hurt!

Major, thanks for taking the time to help. I recently replaced both of those tiny o-rings because I mangled one the first time I took the UFS apart. Both of the o-rings are in there, but my pin still falls when I take the TS apart to switch batteries. Just today in the airplane I went to pull out my TS and it had leaked inside of the pouch i use to store it. I wiped it down and took a couple pulls only to find the battery was a bit warm, so I unscrewed it to switch the battery and the entire battery was wet from juice.

Needless to say I'm a bit frustrated. I like the device and want to master it, but I've been using it for a few weeks now and I'm still having issues. I'm sure it's something I'm doing or have done wrong, but I can't figure out how to fix it.

One piece of advice that I would suggest is when you're putting the UFS onto the collection tank, make sure the O-ring above the threads of the UFS (the juice control ring part of the UFS) is barely showing or not showing at all when the juice control is closed. Really give it a nice push in there before you start screwing it in!

And what major said is good -- make sure the center pin has all the o-rings!

I also keep the top o-ring (the one that goes on the top of the atty) very well lubed so it doesn't come undone when messing with the juice control

My UFS o-ring isn't showing at all with the JC closed. Matter of fact, the JC has STAYED closed, yet almost all the full UFS of Grandpa's Cough Medicine that I filled up with two days ago is gone. I don't get it.

 

[Zoranth]

It is not recommended to take any Tank device on a plane when it is full of juice. The pressure differentials will cause the juice to leak.

 

[I'mGatMan!]

It is not recommended to take a Tank device on a plane when it is full of juice. The pressure differentials will cause the juice to leak.

Interesting. I never thought of that. I flew to IL on Friday and came back today. Could some long-term damage have occured?

 

[Zoranth]

Only to your battery I would think.

 

[fright88]

Just a quick note if your pin falls down when you take it off the ggts then the little o rings are buggered up. They hold the pin fairly tight. Can you tell us the steps you used to replace or fix them?

 

[I'mGatMan!]

Just a quick note if your pin falls down when you take it off the ggts then the little o rings are buggered up. They hold the pin fairly tight. Can you tell us the steps you used to replace or fix them?

I took the whole UFS apart, then I went to the part under the collection cup, and unscrewed the hex bolt. I then unscrewed the plastic piece and pulled out the whole fixture. Then I put the tiny o-rings on the pin, inserted everything, and screwed in the hex bolt. Did I do something wrong?

 

[fright88]

I made this video it may help. It sounds right but the plastic should pinch the o rings to th pin which keeps it fairly tight
IMG_0551_x264.mp4 video by fright88 - Photobucket

As for written instructions. Take apart the UFS. Unscrew the metal nut which removes the pin assembly. Then take apart the pin assembly. You should have 6 parts 3 o-rings pin metal nut and plastic piece.

Now take the pin and put on the larger o ring. Then put the metal nut on the pin (threaded end away from the flat head) Now put the 2 tiny o rings on the pin and slide them down to the metal nut. Finally put the black plastic piece on and screw in the metal nut. It may take a little working to get the o rings inside the plastic but they will go in. Once you finger tighten the metal nut thread the whole assembly back into the connector.

If you followed these directions and the pin still just falls out you may need new o rings.

 

[I'mGatMan!]

Well, that explains that...

My tiny o-rings are not under the black piece, they're above it on the pin. D'oh!!!

Thanks so much for helping me to see my mistake. I will correct it and check back in.

Any idea why my button gets a little hot but doesn't go all supernova?

 

[fright88]

yes that should fix your leak into the battery compartment issue. It may also help some with your juice loss from the tank.

Also as far as the juice controll being completely closed and it still flooding try this. Once you have your o rings back in place and are ready for assembly pull out the pin slightly (just a couple mm) and open the juice controll all the way (turn it clockwise) Then screw on your atty or carto fairly tight. The push the pin back in to make contact and completely close the juice controll (counter clockwise) and inspect around the base of the atomizer. Make sure there are no large gaps between the base of the atty or carto and the bottom of the tank. Once you have verified no big gaps fill and assemble as normal and try it out. You may have already tried this but it is about all I can say about that issue. If you still have issues it might be something you need to have Imeo check out.

As for your hot button issue. Usually this happens when the button springs gets dirty or the negative battery spring. Take apart your button and clean and possibly sand the spring. Or it looks like COV just put up the new brass springs so you might try that. If it still gets hot check for shorts (you will probably need a multimeter)

 

[I'mGatMan!]

Okay, fixed that, which should hopefully stop the leaking into the battery tube and out of the center pin mechanism. Now I need to figure out why my button has been getting hot, and how my juice level is decreasing without the juice control being open at all.

Sheesh.

 

[fright88]

Okay, fixed that, which should hopefully stop the leaking into the battery tube and out of the center pin mechanism. Now I need to figure out why my button has been getting hot, and how my juice level is decreasing without the juice control being open at all.

Sheesh.

Since I switched to 6v I have had to clean my button spring every week. That will probably help.

 

[I'mGatMan!]

Bro...that fix really seems to have helped in the short time. My vaping in the past few minutes has produced MUCH vapor and hits much better. Thank you!!!

 

[Major]

Glad you're getting sorted out man! I have added Fright's video to the Instructional Video thread in the sticky section up top.

And don't feel alone - I recall getting my first GGTS (used) and wondering why it leaked. After all, it did have the 2 tiny O-rings. But like yours, mine were sitting on top of the black delrin insulatoir cap!