Steam Crave RDTA
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I've had the 6 ml SteamCrave Aromamizer RDTA about a week so far and it is an amazing tank for airflow and vapor production. It's airflow is better than many rda's I have in my collection and it delivers great flavor once you get a favorable build installed. Flavor and vapor production is easily as good as any other RDA I have tried. In my opinion it has minor drawbacks though. Even though I'll be ordering another one today just because I love the RDA like experience without the hastle of dripping.
1. The 3 post build platform is pretty tight. Almost too tight. I'd order the velocity style build deck if you order one. I tried using 2x26gax34 ga clapton wire wrapped around 2.0 mm and I couldn't get it to fit without increasing the chance of the coils shorting out to the chamber wall. The new optional velocity style build deck looks like it may work better? Not sure here. Looks like it would be anyhow?? 8 wraps of 24 ga around 3mm fits easily though. I would hate to see the chamber volume made larger though since I feel that would decrease flavor.
2. I do not like the two air holes that are aimed directly at the negative posts. To me this cools down and dilutes the vapor with air while not that useful towards pulling vapors away from the coils. The vapor density is increased and flavor is improved with these two side post air holes plugged or covered. Closing off these two holes does impede airflow though. This isn't a good thing either in my opinion. A catch 22. I hate the vape bands. They easily get moved a little and require constant readjusting to maintain full air flow and they just LOOK UGLY in my opinion. I saw one recommendation to just use clear packing tape to block off or tape shut these two extra holes. That works too.
3. The biggest restriction to air flow is the drip tip. The stock anti-spitback drip tip isn't really required in my opinion and it vapes better without it or another drip tip installed in place of the stock tip.
To address issues #2 and #3 above.. Today I made a few modifications. First I thread tapped the two side post air holes with a 6x32 thread tap and then installed two short 6x32 grub screws. This worked very well to completely block them off and I could remove them. Later, I figured I'd never remove them, so I ended up silver soldering them in place and machined the outside surface flush. To increase the airflow directly to the coils I drilled out the two remaining holes out to 9/64" which is about 3.6mm instead of 3.0 mm This doesn't sound like much however if you calculate the the air flow rate with this calculator Calculator: Air Flow Rate through an Orifice | TLV you can increase the air volume through each hole by about 45%. Finally since this tank vapes better with the drip tip removed than it does with a drip tip installed I made a drip tip that fits over the outside, instead of inside the top cap. A drip tip has an ID of about 4.5 to 5mm This replacement drip tip maintains the ID of the chimney all the way to you lips. If you decide to try these modifications yourself. You're on your own and is at your own risk.
1. The 3 post build platform is pretty tight. Almost too tight. I'd order the velocity style build deck if you order one. I tried using 2x26gax34 ga clapton wire wrapped around 2.0 mm and I couldn't get it to fit without increasing the chance of the coils shorting out to the chamber wall. The new optional velocity style build deck looks like it may work better? Not sure here. Looks like it would be anyhow?? 8 wraps of 24 ga around 3mm fits easily though. I would hate to see the chamber volume made larger though since I feel that would decrease flavor.
2. I do not like the two air holes that are aimed directly at the negative posts. To me this cools down and dilutes the vapor with air while not that useful towards pulling vapors away from the coils. The vapor density is increased and flavor is improved with these two side post air holes plugged or covered. Closing off these two holes does impede airflow though. This isn't a good thing either in my opinion. A catch 22. I hate the vape bands. They easily get moved a little and require constant readjusting to maintain full air flow and they just LOOK UGLY in my opinion. I saw one recommendation to just use clear packing tape to block off or tape shut these two extra holes. That works too.
3. The biggest restriction to air flow is the drip tip. The stock anti-spitback drip tip isn't really required in my opinion and it vapes better without it or another drip tip installed in place of the stock tip.
To address issues #2 and #3 above.. Today I made a few modifications. First I thread tapped the two side post air holes with a 6x32 thread tap and then installed two short 6x32 grub screws. This worked very well to completely block them off and I could remove them. Later, I figured I'd never remove them, so I ended up silver soldering them in place and machined the outside surface flush. To increase the airflow directly to the coils I drilled out the two remaining holes out to 9/64" which is about 3.6mm instead of 3.0 mm This doesn't sound like much however if you calculate the the air flow rate with this calculator Calculator: Air Flow Rate through an Orifice | TLV you can increase the air volume through each hole by about 45%. Finally since this tank vapes better with the drip tip removed than it does with a drip tip installed I made a drip tip that fits over the outside, instead of inside the top cap. A drip tip has an ID of about 4.5 to 5mm This replacement drip tip maintains the ID of the chimney all the way to you lips. If you decide to try these modifications yourself. You're on your own and is at your own risk.
It will leak if your airholes arn't closed and tilted sideways. But it says what it is supposed to do. Cheers mate.
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