Still haveing V2 switch problems?

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chev327fox

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ECF Veteran
Apr 17, 2010
361
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Nowheresville, ME
Here's my thread on PS about what the actual problem is...

Exact V2 Switch Problem

Here my solution to fix it...

My Switch Solution/Fix

HOPE THIS HELPS YOU!!! It saved me from taking my switch apart everyday and cleaning it. Its been 4 days and still not one mis-fire.

EDIT:

DISCLAIMER: I am in no way associated with Pure Smoker®, this is my opinion only. Do this carefully and at your own risk.

It's now been 5 and a half days and still not one mis-fire and I havn't cleaned it once and I never added Noalox or any other gel. Works better then when it was new and that is far from an exaggeration. WOOT!! WOOT!!!
 
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chev327fox

Unregistered Supplier
ECF Veteran
Apr 17, 2010
361
1
Nowheresville, ME
Yes, the original posts were machined with a flat side. We found that they turned easily after pressing the button over time, and it just made the switch harder to line up and fire. I can't say PS recommends doing this- but I'm glad it's working for you, Chev.

Read my reply on the PS website in my thread Casey... I know you need to stick up for the decision made by PS on certain things but that doesn't mean that the round post idea was the best solution, no offense, just saying everyone can be wrong... even me or PS. Although I think the stainless steel was the right way to go just should have made the flat spot on them as well for a good connection. I almost want to bet Steve would agree now that he sees the problems his customers are "still" having. Not that it's a major problem. Just an annoying one.

And if they were to turn over time it would be because of the twist of the caps and batteries when tightening them down... not the button or washer. The flat washer on the button would keep them flat if anything.. only makes sense. Bit I think you were just saying that the pushing of the button over time could loosen the grip of the plastic around the post making it loose enough to turn... If so I agree completely. But like I said in reply to you in my thread, it's a lot less of a "pain in the ..." to have to turn the post back every once and a great while (but I don't think they would because the Derlin plastic you guys so smartly used it tougher then nails) then to have to deal with button mashing, mis-fires, and cleaning of the post and washer contacts everyday (in my experience). I hope no one gets me wrong here, I believe that PS's Prodigy is the Best product out there in its market but that doesn't mean there isn't room for improvement on the current switch.

Regardless, I love ya for all the support and help you give us!!! Patience is a virtue and you exercise it with authority :) If that even makes sense, but you know what i mean.

EDIT:

I was wondering to day after thinking about your post... what is PS's "recommendation" on the NEW switch problem after the upgrade?
 
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chev327fox

Unregistered Supplier
ECF Veteran
Apr 17, 2010
361
1
Nowheresville, ME
Didn't the original Prodigy switches already have a flat side on the posts?

I've just been removing the washer and posts once a week and cleaning them with "barkeeper's friend" and a toothbrush. If the washer has a lot of crud on it I'll lightly sand it with fine grit sandpaper.

Yes but it was the aluminum that was the issue not the flat spot...

Of coarse this is all my opinion... although I would say it is an educated opinion. I am a mechanic (like my father) and I have also done engineering and electrical work as well. Always known how things work and how to make them better.

Steve had the right idea at first with the flat spot on the post but not with the aluminum. I wondered why he changed both... and still do.

In the post Casey had made about the V2 switch uprade where it said:

"All ORIGINAL PURCHASERS of the Prodigy V2 will receive a free upgrade kit for their switch- this includes:

1.New stainless steel contact posts – No flat machined (to fix the oxidation problem).
2.Rubber o-ring."

It says: "1.New stainless steel contact posts – No flat machined (to fix the oxidation problem). 2.Rubber o-ring." The oxidation had absolutely nothing to do with the flat machined surface at all. It was the aluminum that oxidizes on it's own regardless of shape. Also the rubber o-ring was a good idea but not needed after the stainless upgrade. I could be wrong but it was probably harder to machine the small stainless post then the aluminum ones, also less manufacturing cost seeing how stainless is more expensive to begin with even without the machining.
 
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