Sub-Ohm Not...

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Mar 5, 2014
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Though i have nothing wrong with sub-ohming, I've been running a quasar rba with a single micro coil at 1.5ohms (5/64 drill bit, 7-8 wraps) and cotton using a DNA30 at 18-19 watts with VERY similar performance as a sub-ohm build. Though, much much cooler. Thought I would share this for others to chime in. I've also done the same setup, but with a 1.9ohm coil and got an equal amount of clouds. :vapor:
 
I was thinking about trying a build like this. With the stigma of sub-ohm builds i thought i would try what everyone is saying is safer. You say very similar, are you talking about just clouds? A big part of sub-ohm, for me, is I feel there's better flavor. So is the flavor the same at such hi power? The highest I can go is 12.5 with my iTaste 134. I use an EVOD at 1.7 and 10 watts, and it does so-so. I'm aware a bottom coil and rba's are two different things but essentially the same concept. I'm not bashing this but I am a little curious. always looking for something a little better, and if it's safer then even better.
 
Mar 5, 2014
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As far a flavor, its equal but different at the same time... Just different. But that is my opinion so don't let that suede you one way. I'm usually running the DNA at 17-20 watts, anything above that drains battery exponentially. But the clouds are practically the same, though many will disagree... Personally, i find the cool vape pleasurable at such high power.

All in all, the clouds are the same but much cooler with a slight difference in flavor. I found going super low ohm wise degrades flavor to a degree, but only because of the intensity of the flavor makes it taste harsh.

The fact that our devices are so advanced, yet our batteries are not makes going sub ohm a scary thing for many... Thats why i started this thread. I think if our batteries could be engineered to a higher degree than our devices, we would see a huge difference in performance, obviously. There are other technologies out there that could take away the dangers of risking battery venting and explosions.
 
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SLIPPY_EEL

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Though i have nothing wrong with sub-ohming, I've been running a quasar RBA with a single micro coil at 1.5ohms (5/64 drill bit, 7-8 wraps) and cotton using a DNA30 at 18-19 watts with VERY similar performance as a sub-ohm build. Though, much much cooler. Thought I would share this for others to chime in. I've also done the same setup, but with a 1.9ohm coil and got an equal amount of clouds. :vapor:

yep but there is only one flaw in your plan....lol.. using 5/64th is macro not a micro... a micro is 1/16th :)

I've used micro's on my innokin134 and found them best at 1.3ohms and 12 or 12.5 watts in a trident...
 

certus11

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There's no diff between draining 10A while sub-ohming and draining 10A through vv/vw with a 1000 ohm coil when it comes to batt safety. If your wattage output is the same then it's the same.

"Oh I'm not sub-ohming but I am doing 60 watts with my VV/VW therefore I am safe" is full of BS. Those thinking otherwise are wrong.

Theoretically, SUB-F-ohming at .9 ohm is safer than VW/VW at 25 W
 
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Mar 5, 2014
36
12
Tx
There's no diff between draining 10A while sub-ohming and draining 10A through vv/vw with a 1000 ohm coil when it comes to batt safety. If your wattage output is the same then it's the same.

"Oh I'm not sub-ohming but I am doing 60 watts with my VV/VW therefore I am safe" is full of BS. Those thinking otherwise are wrong.

Theoretically, SUB-F-ohming at .9 ohm is safer than VW/VW at 25 W

I would see a difference. First, no one runs a 1000 ohm coil. Secondly, I'm mainly taking about how sub-ohming rapidly discharges a battery which can be dangerous. I'm running a 1.5ohm coil at 17-20 watts, not really passing the threshold of 20 watts. The thing with sub-ohming is that you have to get higher power to push the atty your running, or just have straight power to your atty. When you have anything above the 1 ohm level, and your not pushing it past 20 watts and constantly pressing the fire button, you wouldn't run the risk of over discharging the battery if you are mindful in the way a lithium battery works. :)
 

certus11

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I would see a difference. First, no one runs a 1000 ohm coil. Secondly, I'm mainly taking about how sub-ohming rapidly discharges a battery which can be dangerous. I'm running a 1.5ohm coil at 17-20 watts, not really passing the threshold of 20 watts. The thing with sub-ohming is that you have to get higher power to push the atty your running, or just have straight power to your atty. When you have anything above the 1 ohm level, and your not pushing it past 20 watts and constantly pressing the fire button, you wouldn't run the risk of over discharging the battery if you are mindful in the way a lithium battery works. :)

??????????????

Sent From Vape Heaven
 

certus11

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I don't think we're on the same page. I'm not talking about running a device above 20 watts at 1000 ohms, I'm talking about running a device at 17-20 watts with a 1 ohm- 1.9 ohm coil with similar results as a sub ohm build. That is all.

You are laughable. You will eventually understand why.
 

gpjoe

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You are laughable. You will eventually understand why.

Let's put it another way (to the OP):

If you don't really understand Ohm's Law, don't lull yourself into a false sense of security. Read more, learn more.

I suppose the only difference between high current/wattage on a mech versus a VV/VW device is that the VV/VW device has a built in safety, where the mech doesn't (unless it's fused).

But....certus11 is very correct - just because you have a coil that reads above 1 ohm doesn't mean you are doing something inherently safer. There is nothing magical about the 1 ohm mark. It's ALL about the current draw and wattage.
 

Miata GT

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do your own homework and stop making a fool out of yourself

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Wow. In their was they are trying to explain your fallacy. Amps are amps to your battery, it doesn't know how many ohms your atty is or the watts you're vaping at, only the draw your mod is placing upon it.

There I go again, making a fool out of myself...
 

certus11

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Wow. In their was they are trying to explain your fallacy. Amps are amps to your battery, it doesn't know how many ohms your atty is or the watts you're vaping at, only the draw your mod is placing upon it.

There I go again, making a fool out of myself...

here's another one.

Sent From Vape Heaven
 

KenD

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Instead of insulting everyone who isn't you, or thinks like you, please explain yourself.

I'll give it a shot. Vaping at high watts draws a lot of amps whether you do it by lowering the resistance of the coil or upping the voltage. 20 watts on a fully charged battery on a mech requires a resistance of 0.88 ohms and will draw 4.72 amps. Vaping at 20 watts with a 1.6 ohm coil on a regulated device requires you to set the voltage to 5.66 and draws 3.54 amps. Yes, the higher resistance coil will draw less amps but the difference isn't radical. If you go to extreme wattages, say 70, the difference in amp draw grows. On a much with a fully charged battery you need a coil resistance of 0.25 ohms. The amp draw will is 16.67, well within the limits of a good high drain battery. On a regulated device with a 1.6 ohm coil you'd only draw 6.6 amps, but you'll require the 4.2 volt battery to deliver 10.58 volts. I'm thinking that in itself wouldn't be very safe. Of course, this is all theoretical. All mechs have a voltage drop, accentuated with low resistance, which means that you'll never get the full 4.2 volts (the major culprit is actually the internal resistance of the battery). With regulated devices I would be surprised if it's possible to draw 10.58 volts out of a single li-ion battery even with the best of boost circuits.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk
 
Mar 5, 2014
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I'll give it a shot. Vaping at high watts draws a lot of amps whether you do it by lowering the resistance of the coil or upping the voltage. 20 watts on a fully charged battery on a mech requires a resistance of 0.88 ohms and will draw 4.72 amps. Vaping at 20 watts with a 1.6 ohm coil on a regulated device requires you to set the voltage to 5.66 and draws 3.54 amps. Yes, the higher resistance coil will draw less amps but the difference isn't radical. If you go to extreme wattages, say 70, the difference in amp draw grows. On a much with a fully charged battery you need a coil resistance of 0.25 ohms. The amp draw will is 16.67, well within the limits of a good high drain battery. On a regulated device with a 1.6 ohm coil you'd only draw 6.6 amps, but you'll require the 4.2 volt battery to deliver 10.58 volts. I'm thinking that in itself wouldn't be very safe. Of course, this is all theoretical. All mechs have a voltage drop, accentuated with low resistance, which means that you'll never get the full 4.2 volts (the major culprit is actually the internal resistance of the battery). With regulated devices I would be surprised if it's possible to draw 10.58 volts out of a single li-ion battery even with the best of boost circuits.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

Thank you very much! I'm never really going to the extreme. Right now I'm running the quasar dripper with a 1.2 ohm coil at 14.5 watts and I'm still getting very thick clouds and what not. It might be due to the fact that it's a dripper, but I never exceed the 6.0 volt mark. Even with a higher resistance coil, I never go to extreme of 9-10 volts. I compared thickness of the vapor with a .4 ohm build to the 1.2-1.9 ohm builds, and really, I feel like I get equal amounts of vapor, though flavor is different along with temperate of the vape. I ran the .4 around 23 watts and the 1.2-1.9 ohm builds anywhere between 14-19 watts. Pretty identical, with the exception of how fast they heat up. It's still not a huge difference though in speed.
 
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