Sub ohm on 18350?

[Blackboar]

For sub-ohming, I've always erred on the side of caution. I would build only as low as a 1.0 ohm coil for my AW and red Efest 18350's. For my Efest 18500's, I'd go as low as 0.8. For my lower builds, I count on the Sony VTC5 18650's. For me, it's just margin for error. coils can change resistance a bit with use and I'd rather have a huge cushion than play at the edge. Especially when my mod is up to my face or in my pocket near m'boys.

If you're looking for a stealthy set up for your sub-ohm build, though, consider getting a Tarsius 4nine or it's clones. In 18650 mode, it is smaller than most mods in their 18650 mode. It is really a great device for stealthy vapers.

 

[rawr]

Well i have 3 mechs and some batteries and i really dont need anymore Vaping on aqua at 0.65-0.8 ohms with 18490 red efest and seems to be ok. Battery doesnt get hot or something like that. I think its safe.

Internal resistance right. But its true for the same type of battery, lower the capacity, higher the inner resistance/voltage drop.

 

[weinner]

There's a drama queen in the house

 

[sahsah]

No use both 18650 and 26650, oh, have a dual 26500 box mod too. So yeah, if I am demanding over 20 amps from my batt, I'll use a 50 amp continuous IMR, if under 20 amps, the use the 30 amp continuous. All depends on the rba I'm building and how low she'll be. Can never tell when a switch is going to lock in the on position and fire till she's bone dead out of charge. When something like that happens, I want a batt that can put out those high amp demands without stressing it even a tad.

Don't understand the concept of stealth vape.

Seriously that's totally overkill, even on a setup that's putting out 20 amps consistently you are MORE THAN SAFE, like that's a huuuuge buffer, that's a 33% buffer! meaning the battery could handle ten more amps and it could handle it continuously! as in your button sticking scenario which is not very likely. Like, I'd hope if something like that happened, you'd realize before draining your entire battery just from the fireball of intense heat growing in your pocket, in which case just unscrew the switch and problem solved (also, most likely rebuildable atty saved, bc if you've got anything like a kayfun on top firing it for like thirty minutes is just going to destroy it.)

 

[sahsah]

I dont quite understand what exactly did you mean?

Full battery has 4.2V. Materials in tube, connectors has some conductivity to do and because they are not perfect, some little amount of voltage "disappears" aka voltage drop. So i can use 4V (thats even too high for 90% of mechs, most of them are bad at voltage drop...) to get the max current. Red efest are rated at 6Amps and more.

what was throwing me off was the fact that it seemed like you were saying that because 18350's have less battery capacity that they therefore also had greater voltage drop

 

[sahsah]

For sub-ohming, I've always erred on the side of caution. I would build only as low as a 1.0 ohm coil for my AW and red Efest 18350's. For my Efest 18500's, I'd go as low as 0.8. For my lower builds, I count on the Sony VTC5 18650's. For me, it's just margin for error. Coils can change resistance a bit with use and I'd rather have a huge cushion than play at the edge. Especially when my mod is up to my face or in my pocket near m'boys.

If you're looking for a stealthy set up for your sub-ohm build, though, consider getting a Tarsius 4nine or it's clones. In 18650 mode, it is smaller than most mods in their 18650 mode. It is really a great device for stealthy vapers.

I think you meant in 18650 is smaller than most in 18350....?