Sub-ohm
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Sub ohm vaping is a necessity with mechanicals mods in order to increase the power. With all of the high wattage regulated devices available today, sub ohming is no longer necessary imo.
Personally though I still sub ohm with my drippers as I like the experience and don't have anything regulated that produces more than 40 watts. I do intend to try one of my drippers on one of my DNA40 devices sometime.
Personally though I still sub ohm with my drippers as I like the experience and don't have anything regulated that produces more than 40 watts. I do intend to try one of my drippers on one of my DNA40 devices sometime.
Where'd you get that idea?
Perhaps you could say what this particular hardware is that you are referring too.
Thicker wire lasts longer, and is easier for people to handle with their fingers ; however, the thicker the wire, the lower the ohms, and as well, the more power required to get them working. And the more power they run, the bigger the vape.
Thicker wire does not heat/cool quicker than thin wire (at the same ohms and voltage).
What the heck made you think that? I've run 1.0, 1.2 and 1.4 ohm coils on a mech and had very respectable vaping. Nothing at all requires that you vape sub ohm unless you're using an Atlantis and 0.5ohm coils.
That's a blanket statement and is entirely not true.
I sub-ohm because I prefer taking shorter drags and like a warm, full vape. I don't use regulated mods, so bumping up the power is not an option to get what I want. Building sub-ohm coils is.
I don't chase clouds, I build and vape what satisfies my personal tastes.
I vape regulated and I STILL have to use sub ohm coils =P Not everyone is content vaping at sub 30w on drippers. I dont cloud chase but I have become accustomed to a very dense vape and a very open draw, thus I vape at higher wattage which means low sub ohm on a mech or mid sub ohm on a regulated device such as a Sigelei 100 or the like.
I hate when people declare high wattage or sub ohms only for "those juvenile competition cloud chaser kids" and how respectable mature vapers would be content at higher ohm or lower wattage, its just a ridiculous statement. Everyone has their preference, whether its low wattage high ohm tanks with constrictive draw or wide open high wattage. More vapor production is just a side effect of more wattage and airflow, people who vape that way dont all just do it for the clouds. Some do absolutely, but certainly not all.
If I try to use a dripper at 30w I will walk away feeling unfulfilled, Im just used to vapor so thick I can almost chew it. Im trying to get away from NEEDING that so I can enjoy RTAs and lower wattage more constrictive vaping, but right now its hard for me, because its not a fulfilling vape for ME.
Thats the beauty of vaping, you can fine tune every aspect of your vape, whether its high density, hot, cold, low vapor, massive vapor, low density, wet, dry, every aspect can be changed to give the user what satisfies them.
There is no wrong way if you do it safely and are knowledgeable about your techniques. Do what satisfies you and keep you from going back to cigarettes. For me it took a very long time to find the vape that did that. When I did I havent touched a smoke since. THAT is what this is about.
I hate when people declare high wattage or sub ohms only for "those juvenile competition cloud chaser kids" and how respectable mature vapers would be content at higher ohm or lower wattage, its just a ridiculous statement. Everyone has their preference, whether its low wattage high ohm tanks with constrictive draw or wide open high wattage. More vapor production is just a side effect of more wattage and airflow, people who vape that way dont all just do it for the clouds. Some do absolutely, but certainly not all.
If I try to use a dripper at 30w I will walk away feeling unfulfilled, Im just used to vapor so thick I can almost chew it. Im trying to get away from NEEDING that so I can enjoy RTAs and lower wattage more constrictive vaping, but right now its hard for me, because its not a fulfilling vape for ME.
Thats the beauty of vaping, you can fine tune every aspect of your vape, whether its high density, hot, cold, low vapor, massive vapor, low density, wet, dry, every aspect can be changed to give the user what satisfies them.
There is no wrong way if you do it safely and are knowledgeable about your techniques. Do what satisfies you and keep you from going back to cigarettes. For me it took a very long time to find the vape that did that. When I did I havent touched a smoke since. THAT is what this is about.
@Dravell: hats off, that's a great reply! I haven't posted on ECF for some time, but just had to give you a few words of appreciation.
I recently purchased a GodMod 180w and I love it. But, what kind of tank/RBA works at very high levels without burnt taste? My Atlantis works amazing, but only around 35W (it's sweet spot). Is there a certain build or RBA that will allow me to Vape at higher levels?
RBA for lower wattage and RDA for higher, I have an IPV3 and with my Tobh I have hit 50-60 watts but thats about it before it just kills the flavor, also gets a little too warm at those temps
How do you build at lower ohms? Is it the type of wire, type of build or something else all together?
Check out Coil Toy - Online calculator for e-cigarette resistance coil building
It will help you figure the correct wraps and wire to get your desired ohm level. Keep in mind that you only need to vary your ohms on mechanical mods to get more wattage output. Your regulated box mod doesn't need sub ohm builds. It can adjust voltage to give your desired wattage.
It will help you figure the correct wraps and wire to get your desired ohm level. Keep in mind that you only need to vary your ohms on mechanical mods to get more wattage output. Your regulated box mod doesn't need sub ohm builds. It can adjust voltage to give your desired wattage.
Think of wire as a straw. The bigger the wire, the more juice pumped through it and less resistance. A thin wire will have a lot of resistance, a thick wire will have less. Resistance is inevitable so you'll always have it, the more wire you use the more resistance. Think about a straw. If you have a really short straw you could blow air through it easily. The longer the straw the harder it is to get air through. The thicker the straw the easier it is to push air through. So more coils = more resistance because you're using more wire
Steam-engine.org is my preferred site to plan builds.
"Works better" isn't descriptive enough. It depends on what you are looking for and on what device as others have mentioned.
Why build sub ohm on high watt regulated mods? I asked a similar question recently and one response made sense. To up the voltage beyond the battery copacity the chip sends out the voltage in a signal, on at the higher voltage than off to build the voltage up in the regulator before dumping it again. When dumping strait battery power that signal is flat (no build up time) but the higher you go above the current voltage output on the battery the longer the time between the on and off states get. If I didn't do a good job explaining that research RMS as I applies to DC voltage regulation.
In my personal experience, I've noticed the thicker wire takes longer to heat. But there is more surface area to heat juice and create vapors.
My builds are usually 28 ga at 1.2-1.6 ohms per coil. So dual coils come it at .6-.8 ohms. I usually wrap on 7/32, 5/32, or 3/32 drill bits, depending on the wick atty and my mood. Lately I've been preferring the 7/32 on most of my builds, so I think I may pick up some 26 ga to up the coil surface area.
To each their own, just be safe!
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
"Works better" isn't descriptive enough. It depends on what you are looking for and on what device as others have mentioned.
Why build sub ohm on high watt regulated mods? I asked a similar question recently and one response made sense. To up the voltage beyond the battery copacity the chip sends out the voltage in a signal, on at the higher voltage than off to build the voltage up in the regulator before dumping it again. When dumping strait battery power that signal is flat (no build up time) but the higher you go above the current voltage output on the battery the longer the time between the on and off states get. If I didn't do a good job explaining that research RMS as I applies to DC voltage regulation.
In my personal experience, I've noticed the thicker wire takes longer to heat. But there is more surface area to heat juice and create vapors.
My builds are usually 28 ga at 1.2-1.6 ohms per coil. So dual coils come it at .6-.8 ohms. I usually wrap on 7/32, 5/32, or 3/32 drill bits, depending on the wick atty and my mood. Lately I've been preferring the 7/32 on most of my builds, so I think I may pick up some 26 ga to up the coil surface area.
To each their own, just be safe!
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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