sub1.0 ohms--why?

[bkkdaytrader]

keep coming across references to sub 1.0 ohm coil resistance. What is the benefit/drawback of that? layman's terms please.

and.... how does one produce sub 1.0 ohm coils? is it the number of wraps? type of wire?

my general understand--the less ohms the more volts/watts can be used to power it--or something like that--so-the less ohms resistance the coils get hotter or??

 

[OBE1]

Sub ohm coils do get hotter and they get hotter much faster. The draw back would be that most batteries should not be used with sub ohm builds. They also require more airflow to keep them cool so some modifications should be made like drilling out airholes.
The reason for building these coils is to produce larger hits due to the increased heat made by lower resistance to battery power. They are built using thicker wire, less coils, tighter coils, dual coil setups things like that. Lots of variables in your question but I put this into the simplest terms... Hope it helps answer your question.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

 

[Thrasher]

your on it and have pretty much answered your own questions basically.

as for why? well in most cases you need to use 1 or lower ohms for mechanical mods as there is no regulation on the battery, and you have to account for the battery always getting weaker. usually too much higher them 1 ohm and the battery seems weak pretty fast.

also low ohm coils get much hotter making a whole lot more vapor.

personally i run .7-.8 ohms on my mechanical and dont have to change the battery until around 3.5 volts give or take.

the thickness or gauge of wire has a set resistance per inch so the number of wraps changes the total length of wire used.


some example on my doubled 3 mm wick using 4 wraps.
28g = .8 ohms
30g = 1.3 ohms
32g = 1.8ohms

 

[bkkdaytrader]

Sub ohm coils do get hotter and they get hotter much faster. The draw back would be that most batteries should not be used with sub ohm builds. They also require more airflow to keep them cool so some modifications should be made like drilling out airholes.
The reason for building these coils is to produce larger hits due to the increased heat made by lower resistance to battery power. They are built using thicker wire, less coils, tighter coils, dual coil setups things like that. Lots of variables in your question but I put this into the simplest terms... Hope it helps answer your question.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

Thanks that definitely helps. So I am planning on rebuilding some coils in the future and if they test to be low ohms--I should not use them?--I know there are many factors and variables but just as a general rule of thumb what should I be looking for in terms of minimum ohms.

 

[Ahoy]

your on it and have pretty much answered your own questions basically.

as for why? well in most cases you need to use 1 or lower ohms for mechanical mods as there is no regulation on the battery, and you have to account for the battery always getting weaker. usually too much higher them 1 ohm and the battery seems weak pretty fast.

also low ohm coils get much hotter making a whole lot more vapor.

personally i run .7-.8 ohms on my mechanical and dont have to change the battery until around 3.5 volts give or take.

the thickness or gauge of wire has a set resistance per inch so the number of wraps changes the total length of wire used.


some example on my doubled 3 mm wick using 4 wraps.
28g = .8 ohms
30g = 1.3 ohms
32g = 1.8ohms

This is what I was about to post, for the most part anyways.

A lot of people go sub ohm for the hit they get.

 

[bkkdaytrader]

your on it and have pretty much answered your own questions basically.

as for why? well in most cases you need to use 1 or lower ohms for mechanical mods as there is no regulation on the battery, and you have to account for the battery always getting weaker. usually too much higher them 1 ohm and the battery seems weak pretty fast.

also low ohm coils get much hotter making a whole lot more vapor.

personally i run .7-.8 ohms on my mechanical and dont have to change the battery until around 3.5 volts give or take.

the thickness or gauge of wire has a set resistance per inch so the number of wraps changes the total length of wire used.


some example on my doubled 3 mm wick using 4 wraps.
28g = .8 ohms
30g = 1.3 ohms
32g = 1.8ohms

Ok good--getting a little clearer.. I was watching a utube of recoiling for a kayfun lite--he used 28g but 10-12 wraps--and wrapped it around a drillbit--i forget the size--- i also forget what the final ohms tested out to--it was under 2.0 i think. So--having so many wraps increased the overall length of the coil--resulting in higher ohms?

BTW...Thanks for your knowledge

 

[NicoHolic]

Power equals voltage squared divided by resistance. You can increase power to the coil either by increasing voltage or lowering resistance. With a mechanical mod, voltage is not adjustable. It's what the battery outputs, typically between 4.2V fully charged and whatever voltage you swap in a new one. That's 3.6-something for me.

I run my daily driver REO at 0.8Ω with a 1/16" micro coil consisting of 8 wraps of 27 AWG Kanthal. My other REO is for more intense home use with a 0.5Ω micro coil of 8 wraps of 26 AWG Nichrome. These use AW IMR 18650s to handle the higher current, the 10A 2000 mAH in the 0.8Ω and the 15C (24A) 1600 in the 0.5Ω. OTOH, I run the 15C AW IMR 18490 in my Simplicity with 2.0Ω cartos or my Sophias coiled at 1.2 to 1.8Ω for more delicate juices.

Varying resistance is how you vary vaping power in a mech, and the sub-ohm range is the more powerful.

 

[K_Tech]

Ok good--getting a little clearer.. I was watching a utube of recoiling for a kayfun lite--he used 28g but 10-12 wraps--and wrapped it around a drillbit--i forget the size--- i also forget what the final ohms tested out to--it was under 2.0 i think. So--having so many wraps increased the overall length of the coil--resulting in higher ohms?

That is correct. More wraps add to the overall length of the wire, which increases the resistance.

Resistance of Kanthal is usually given in ohms per foot or ohms per meter. More length = more ohms.

 

[Farx]

Ive read that low resistance coils have a higher surface area, the wires used in the coil has a lower resistance and are thicker, and this should increase the quality of the vapour according to what ive read, better flavour and throat hits. Havent tried any myself but mayby i will sometime!

 

[NicoHolic]

There are two ways to lower a coil's resistance; 1) use less wire length of a particular gauge, i.e. fewer wraps and/or smaller diameter, and 2) using a thicker, lower resistance wire with the same or even longer length.

Using less wire increases the heat, but applies it to less wire to wick contact area, meaning a higher temperature at the contact area. Using thicker wire also increases the heat, but applies it to a larger contact area, keeping the temperature down at the wire to wick junction. The former reduces the wire mass, speeding up heat up time, while the latter does the opposite. You want a balance of these.

I got the idea of using eight (± 1) wraps of whatever gauge wire gives the resistance I want from a fella named pdib. So I have spools of 26 - 32 gauge in even numbers, and find that pretty flexible.

 

[bkkdaytrader]

Power equals voltage squared divided by resistance. You can increase power to the coil either by increasing voltage or lowering resistance. With a mechanical mod, voltage is not adjustable. It's what the battery outputs, typically between 4.2V fully charged and whatever voltage you swap in a new one. That's 3.6-something for me.

I run my daily driver REO at 0.8Ω with a 1/16" micro coil consisting of 8 wraps of 27 AWG Kanthal. My other REO is for more intense home use with a 0.5Ω micro coil of 8 wraps of 26 AWG Nichrome. These use AW IMR 18650s to handle the higher current, the 10A 2000 mAH in the 0.8Ω and the 15C (24A) 1600 in the 0.5Ω. OTOH, I run the 15C AW IMR 18490 in my Simplicity with 2.0Ω cartos or my Sophias coiled at 1.2 to 1.8Ω for more delicate juices.

Varying resistance is how you vary vaping power in a mech, and the sub-ohm range is the more powerful.

If those are layman's terms I'm in deep trouble Thanks--ill get get it eventually

 

[tj99959]

Sub ohm coils were simply a step in the learning process IMO. However some folks still like it. Some folks are also liking high wattage even with higher resistance. The bottom line is that no one else has to like what you or I like, and the good news is that it seems like coils can be wrapped almost any way a person wishes to wrap them. It's just a matter of finding what is the most efficient on whatever equipment you happen to be using. Just because my coils works in my A7's, doesn't mean that they will work in your igo or kayfun.

Little things can make a huge difference. For example I hated a 1 ohm coil using 32ga wire, and love a 1 ohm coil using 30ga wire in my A7. Changing the diameter of the coil wraps by as little as 1/64 of an inch can make a huge difference in how a coil performs, as does changin the size of the air passage. I don't do sub ohm for no other reason than I don't need to.

 

[dice57]

So much has to do with your atomizer and the device used to power it. Some atomizers vape better at standard ohms and are not well suited for sub ohm builds. A regulated device generally won't fire sub ohms. My Provari will fire a .9 ohm build but then I can't get max watts out of her because of the amp limitation on the Provari. So I aim for builds of 1.5-2 ohms, uses less amps and can max out the watts. I have one re-buildable atomizer, rba, that could easily handle sub ohms but the vape is so good at standard ohms and 15 watts that I haven't tried the sub ohm zone with it.

I have several rba's, and my goal on each is to discover the build that provides the most satisfying flavorful vape possible. some that means standard ohm builds, others it means a sub ohm dual coil build. One doesn't need to go sub ohm to find huge plumes of vape that taste fantastic. To me, the simpler the better and safer, just sometimes simple won't do the trick so I resign myself to meticulous and tedious. Fortunatley, once the build is in it's good for a month or two and only needs a wick change and a dry burn of the coil every week or so.

 

[NicoHolic]

If those are layman's terms I'm in deep trouble Thanks--ill get get it eventually

Some mechs (what you'll typically use to sub-ohm) have collapsable hot springs to disconnect the battery in the event of a short, but most don't. YOU are the ONLY safety. If the mech starts getting hot quickly, you must get off the fire button, tear things apart and find and fix the short. You can't afford to freeze like a deer in the headlights with the fire button pressed. It's imperative you know and understand all this before rebuilding an atomizer (even a super-ohm one) on a mech. It's also important you ALWAYS lock the mech's fire button when not in use.

Get a Cartomizer and Atomizer Ohm Meter - Meters - Accessories . It lets you test your coil build with the atomizer cap on (which can cause shorts) and the drip tip inserted (a metal one can also cause a short). In other words, you're testing it as you'll use it. Never mount a shorted atomizer on a mechanical mod.

Make sure you are using a safer technology battery that you know the maximum continuous current rating of. IMR batteries are safer technology and they are "unprotected" because they don't need to be protected.

Current is measured in amperes (aka amps). Note this battery is rated at 10A (ten amps) and this battery is rated at 15C. That's 15 times the Capacity stated in amp-hours. This is a 1600 mAH (milliamp-huor) battery so its capacity in amp-hours is 1.6 AH. 15 x 1.6 = 24A maximum continuous current.

For a mechanical mod, use the formula Resistance = Voltage/Current to determine the absolute lowest resistance your battery can handle. Use 4.2 for the voltage (even though voltage drop under load will decrease that). If your battery is rated for 24A, 4.2V/24A = 0.175Ω. OTOH, if your battery is rated for 10A, 4.2V/10A = 0.42Ω. It's best to add 0.1-0.2Ω as a safety buffer. In other words, don't shoot for the absolute lowest because your meter may be in error.

Using a mech to sub-ohm is no more dangerous than cutting firewood with a chain saw or using shop tools. You just need to know and understand what you're doing.

 

[bkkdaytrader]

So much has to do with your atomizer and the device used to power it. Some atomizers vape better at standard ohms and are not well suited for sub ohm builds. A regulated device generally won't fire sub ohms. My Provari will fire a .9 ohm build but then I can't get max watts out of her because of the amp limitation on the Provari. So I aim for builds of 1.5-2 ohms, uses less amps and can max out the watts. I have one re-buildable atomizer, rba, that could easily handle sub ohms but the vape is so good at standard ohms and 15 watts that I haven't tried the sub ohm zone with it.

I have several rba's, and my goal on each is to discover the build that provides the most satisfying flavorful vape possible. some that means standard ohm builds, others it means a sub ohm dual coil build. One doesn't need to go sub ohm to find huge plumes of vape that taste fantastic. To me, the simpler the better and safer, just sometimes simple won't do the trick so I resign myself to meticulous and tedious. Fortunatley, once the build is in it's good for a month or two and only needs a wick change and a dry burn of the coil every week or so.

thats usefull info as I have ordered a provari---thanks

 

[cantstopwontstop]

Just make sure you purchase quality batteries with any sub ohm build. With a mechanical mod your battery will always be the weakest link. And really in any setup you should have quality batteries, it is literally the most important thing you can purchase. Look around and find a good deal on AW, EH, or SONY batteries. If you have some patience you should be able to find a good battery for around 9$.

 

[vanillagorilla]

i did a sub ohm on my Fogger v3 using 4 wraps of .30 kanthal coil on 4mm silicone wick through my king mech, never used 4mm before (was a freebie so i tried it) came out .8 ohms on my Vamo 5 at 10 watts and on another device .7 ohms so there is some play in the readings, good advice to leave some play when wrapping for the +-. I recoiled to 6 wraps and got 1.9 ohms The flavour on the set up was amazing i had not tasted better, looking to get a heavier vape so next coil will be 5 wraps, in theory this should take it around 1.2-1.5 ohms.

 

[Hackernwacker]

My main question on this stuff is how people are not burning up their juice with a coil that gets that hot? In my VW device, i stay around 7-8watts and even then, sometimes i feel like its burning the juice up. If you look at some of the safe vaping tables out there, it says at even around 8-9w "some juices may fry." People with mechs and sub ohm builds are talking like 17-18w... wouldnt that fry your juice? Is the safe vaping table only applicable to vw devices? Are you guys using any special juice for this? Maybe i just need to study ohms law some more, but i just dont get it...

 

[TrentTC]

When you get in to sub ohms you can throw out that safe vaping table. 28, 26, and 24 guage kanthal is just much different than the thinner guages used in clearomizers and cartomizers. Other than that It's all about wicking, i.e. how fast you can get liquid to your coil, and airflow. That table is a good starting place for clearomizers and cartomizers but rba's are very different. I vape between 25 and 40 watts, depending on the atomizer I am using, for the most part. I use 28 and 26 gauge kanthal for most of my builds. Never have any burnt juice.

 

[Caridwen]

You're probably going to want to reduce your nic strength if you go sub ohm, so don't stock up before.