sub1.0 ohms--why?

[wedoitall]

Sub'd

Wow outstanding information. I've only be on the forums for a few days and have learned a ton.


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[vapero]

My main question on this stuff is how people are not burning up their juice with a coil that gets that hot? In my VW device, i stay around 7-8watts and even then, sometimes i feel like its burning the juice up. If you look at some of the safe vaping tables out there, it says at even around 8-9w "some juices may fry." People with mechs and sub ohm builds are talking like 17-18w... wouldnt that fry your juice? Is the safe vaping table only applicable to vw devices? Are you guys using any special juice for this? Maybe i just need to study ohms law some more, but i just dont get it...

it's all in the re-wicking! a rda or rba has a far superior rewicking than a clearo or a carto
you get dry hits as the wick takes more time to get saturated before you vaporize the juice you have on the wick

 

[Hackernwacker]

it's all in the re-wicking! a rda or rba has a far superior rewicking than a clearo or a carto
you get dry hits as the wick takes more time to get saturated before you vaporize the juice you have on the wick

hmm. interesting. Thanks for the response. Sounds like i need to get a mech device.

What is your preference for wick material on a sub ohm build? Im vaping mostly gamel from alien vision which i think is a heavier VG juice (maybe greater than 70% VG- guessing?)- any advice for that specific juice? Also, is 325 SS mesh that different from 400 + 500? Specifically, on a sub ohm build with a thicker juice?

 

[xSKOOBSx]

hmm. interesting. Thanks for the response. Sounds like i need to get a mech device.

What is your preference for wick material on a sub ohm build? Im vaping mostly gamel from alien vision which i think is a heavier VG juice (maybe greater than 70% VG- guessing?)- any advice for that specific juice? Also, is 325 SS mesh that different from 400 + 500? Specifically, on a sub ohm build with a thicker juice?

VG juices are generally much thicker. Watch out going sub-ohm with thicker juices, especially if you use cotton. Wick will dry out quicker than with a 50/50 blend.

 

[IMFire3605]

hmm. interesting. Thanks for the response. Sounds like i need to get a mech device.

What is your preference for wick material on a sub ohm build? Im vaping mostly gamel from alien vision which i think is a heavier VG juice (maybe greater than 70% VG- guessing?)- any advice for that specific juice? Also, is 325 SS mesh that different from 400 + 500? Specifically, on a sub ohm build with a thicker juice?

The 325 SS Mesh would be better for a thicker juice due to being it is technically coarse, probably can handle thinner juices but 325 should adequately handle 100VG to 30PG/70VG the best.
400 SS Mesh would be adequate for 30PG/70VG to 60PG/40VG
500 SS Mesh would be more adequate for 60PG/40VG to 100PG

It is mainly in how you cut and roll the SS mesh into a wick, cutting a piece of mesh with the weave of the mesh, wicking will be slower as it is like the juice has to climb a ladder or tier, cutting diagonal to the weave, the mesh capillaries the juice almost as fast as how SS Cable does

 

[sawlight]

A couple of things here,

Most people doing this use the heavier wire which takes longer to heat up, so unless they are holding the fire button for 10 seconds or so, the wire never really reaches full temperature.
I tried sub ohm with 32ga and the juice tasted like burnt but! Stepped up to 28ga and I could build a .5 ohm coil without burning juice.
A lot of people claim increased flavor going this way, I couldn't see it as the juice was just too warm for my liking. .7-.8 ohms, yeah, it's not bad. I even did a .9 build on my Z-Atty pro on my Provari just to try it. Not terrible, but you really need to tilt it to keep it wicking good.
But at the end of the day, I still prefer a 1.2-1.8 build depending on the atty, Kayfun's I like at 6.5 watts, Fogger V2, it's happy 13-15 watts and my drippers I like around 10 watts. All of this with the same juice, just so you get an idea of how different rebuildables can change things themselves.
For wicks I only used silica, I just couldn't see how cotton was going to live through this type of abuse and I've tasted burnt cotton enough as it is, I didn't want to taste it like this!
Hopefully that will clear up some of the misunderstanding.

 

[Maurice Pudlo]

At this very moment I'm running a coil made out of 32ga kanthal reading 0.8 ohm.

The coil itself is a 3/4 coil wound on a 5/64" drill bit.

What makes this possible is that I wound together three strands of the 32ga prior to making the coil.

Multiple strands of a given gauge wire will lower the resistance per foot.

As has been said above, if you can feed the coil fast enough your coil will not heat up much more than the vaporization temperature of your e-liquid, the liquid itself is acting as a coolant and your drawing in the resulting vapor is taking that heat away.

The particular coil, wick, atty, and way you vape all work together to produce good or bad results. When you find the combination that suits your liking it is blissful.

I enjoy the building process, I'm not fixed on sub ohm, but in my current setup it produces the very best flavor and highest volume of vapor per draw of any combination I have yet to try.

Do make sure you check for shorts, the build ohm reading, and use the correct battery for the resulting amp draw.

As for layman's terms about the battery tech talk (don't try to pull a semi trailer with a geo metro your going to blow it up).

Maurice