Good morning , I bought the subtank mini a month ago and I'm in love with the tank , it's awesome. I'm using the tank with Aspire CF mod and high drain battery 35 amp Efest and another 40 amp battery. Due to time constraint and coz I'm totally new to the whole building thing , I decided to postpone playing with building my own coils , till I really have time and start exprimenting , meanwhile I was using the prebuilt rba coils that comes with the tank and it was awesome. I've also bought some prebuilt micro coils (24G kanthal) and here's when the problem began , I keep getting burnt taste especially with a fresh new battery. My question is there's any way to fix this , I won't be able to buy new coils now nor build my own . Is there any possible wicking method that would fix the issue? My apologies for the possibly repeated question but i've been looking everywhere but with no definite answer.Thanks
Subtank mini RBA micro coils
- Thread starter Fady Ibrahim Guirguis
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I think running that low resistance on an unregulated mod just burns a bit too hot, especially with a full battery. Do you mix your own juice? My only suggestion (other than getting a regulated mod or buying wire and building higher resistance builds) would be to increase the amount of vg in your liquid.
Oh there is one thing: Maybe take a picture of how you have your wicking. It's important to keep the juice channels clear so juice can flow into the wick. So don't hear the tails of your wick thick and pushed tight against the wells.
Oh there is one thing: Maybe take a picture of how you have your wicking. It's important to keep the juice channels clear so juice can flow into the wick. So don't hear the tails of your wick thick and pushed tight against the wells.
your best bet is to try to change your wick. pull your cotton out and give it few dry burns this will get rid of all of that crude on the coil. slap some new cotton in there and vape away.
Look up rip trippers on youtube, he has a great rebuild tutorial on building them. The MOST important part of building them is wicking.
I'm finding any burnt taste is usually down to my wicking. I'm using cotton and it is hit and miss if it will wick for me. Don't use too much cotton, and don't block the juice wells with the wick. It should slide through the coil relatively resistance free and I usually push the wicks slightly out the way of the juice well. Seems to work. If I use too much cotton and cover the juice intake I get dry hits all the time, it's just a case of trying and trying again until you get something that works.
Liking the RBA on the subtank, it's half decent. I've had to re-wick this coil three times in a day though until it got to the sweet spot and no dry/burnt hits.
Trial and error, I suppose. Hope you work it out. At least with the subtank you can get to the coil and wick without losing juice - so just keep tweaking your wick until you get something that satisfies you
Good luck!
Liking the RBA on the subtank, it's half decent. I've had to re-wick this coil three times in a day though until it got to the sweet spot and no dry/burnt hits.
Trial and error, I suppose. Hope you work it out. At least with the subtank you can get to the coil and wick without losing juice - so just keep tweaking your wick until you get something that satisfies you
Good luck!
You COULD do that, but it'll mute the flavor. The solution is all in the wicking, trust me on that. I can build coils on the RTA sections of both my subtanks and my Delta 2's and wicking makes all the difference between a consistant vape or getting burnt dry hits. Practice, practice, practice!!!
Do you know the resistance of the coil? I have q build on mine that is .2 but I run it at 45.5 watts on my sigelei 150 watt box mod and I don't get burned hits but if I were to run it on a mechanical mod it would be a 88 watt build with the limited airflow and juice flow of the stock RBA deck I'd get burned hits. I don't know how low your coils are but being 24 gauge I can only guess that they are somewhere in the vicinity of .3-.4 ohms and 44 to 58 watts on a mechanical mod. Just too much power is what I'm figuring do to my own experiences. Stay in the .5 to .6 range and you will be ok and wick your build like this
keep the cotton tucked tight to the flat sides of where the airflow hole is this ensures that the juice channels aren't obstructed. Good luck
keep the cotton tucked tight to the flat sides of where the airflow hole is this ensures that the juice channels aren't obstructed. Good luck
By the way I run my juice ratios at 20/80 VG this pic is prior to my modifying my juice channels it does fine at 35.5 to 40 watts I dremel ed the juice channels since and can now run 55 to 70 watts without burned hits.
Hi Fady and welcome to the forum!
For safety reasons, you always want to judge a battery by it's CDR (Continuous Discharge Rate), not it's Pulse rate, which is often overrated.
The CDR of your Efest is 20 amps, the 35 amps on the battery is its Pulse rate. I suspect that the 40 amp battery you mention is also a 20 amp CDR with a 40 amp pulse rate.
We don't know of any 18 series battery that has a 35 or 40 amp CDR.
That being said, as long as your coils aren't below .3 ohms, you should be relatively safe. On a fully-charged battery with a .3 ohm coil, you will be drawing 14amps, which leaves a headroom (for safety) of 30%. a 50% headroom would be a bit safer, but 30 is ok.
When building your own coils, be sure to get and use an ohm meter. That's the only way to be sure you don't have a short before putting the coil on your mod and having something bad happen. I know the Aspire has shortage protection, but the extra step is worth not endangering that protection on your relatively expensive mod.
What the others have said above about the burnt taste is spot on. Experiment with your wicking.
For info on batteries Baditude has several excellent blog posts on the subject. His blogs on battery safety are a must read before you venture into the world of sub-ohm vaping.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/for...ected-icr.html
Reliable sources for batteries:
Batteries-Chargers-Flashlights-Only The Best
Authentic AW Batteries - RTD Vapor
Illumn.com - Flashlights, Batteries, Carry Gear, Intelligent LED Lighting, and More!
Do not buy batteries from eBay or Amazon. Some of their third party sellers sell fakes.
... and finally, here's a link that explains things in pretty simple terms: Vaping Battery Safety & Ohms Law Illustrated and explained in very simple terms
Hope it helps and Happy Vaping!
I've been considering doing the same to mine, but do they leak if on their side?
I've done this to many Kayfuns (when I ran them) and never had leaking issues, but the juice channels are much shorter on a Subtank RTA.
I do find it very easy to rewick the prebuilt OCC coils by just pulling out the old cotton and installing new.
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Thank youu very much for the replies ...... just few additional info forgot to add , the coils are pre built micro coils 0.5 ohm , I'm not there yet to start using lower resistance , the juice it's home made 50/50 .... I've found on a reddit thread the U wicking ... where after inserting the wick into the coil cut each end into 2 halfs separte them and you'll have 4 ends , each end should be to the side of the deck.I've tried this since yesterday ,and it seems it's working good so far. Still don't understand what difference has made but it's working ....I've got another suggestion from a friend to separate a little bit the spaces between the wraps of the coil so that I have a larger heating surface coz narrow spaced coil like the mirco coil would heat faster.....any other suggestion?wick tweaking .....thanks again
Could you provide me with more clear photos of the wicking , I've been using the U wick , where you split each end of the wick and put each leg on each side of the deck thus clearing the juice wells , it was working really fine for a whole day with switching fully charged battery , but now the taste getting kinda funny
Every once in a while I will cover the air holes with my thumb and give another primer pull. I will do this with the OCC and with the RBA, irregardless of stock or my own build and wick or what ratio PG/VG is in there. I want to see air bubbles. I want to know there is juice being fed to the coil. Some builds/stock coils need this less than others. Since I have been paying attention to this I get better vapes, and less nasty tasting stuff.
I do that from time to time , it helps....actually I just did it now and flavor is tasting good again but still there's a faint burnt taste
I was getting a burnt taste from the RBA coil in my ST mini. I found the cause, might be totally different than your situation but figured I tell ya what was happening with mine -
I pulled it apart and checked the wick, one side was darker. I pulled the wick out and fired the coil. It was not heating from the inside out, it was heating on one side first (the side with the darker wick). Str8nd that out and all was well.
I pulled it apart and checked the wick, one side was darker. I pulled the wick out and fired the coil. It was not heating from the inside out, it was heating on one side first (the side with the darker wick). Str8nd that out and all was well.
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Foggyroomz would you please , if i'm not asking for too much provide me with step by step photos for the best wicking or the one you're using for a micro coil 0.5 on my subtank mini and aspire CF mod ...thanks
Rsunderl Efest has some new 18650's out that claim 60A Pulse and 38A continuous. Don't think anyone's got them on a scope or meter yet but we shall see.
I think your gauge wire may be to heavy also, like mentioned above wicking is everything but also I noticed I couldn't use my 28 gauge wire I use in my other drippers but found the sub tank mini really likes 26 and to be kept between .5 and .9 ohm coils and keep your wick on the deck lid and channels clear and should be fine
There is no possible tweak with the wicking or the coil itself for the time being ? I won't be able to do anything except using these micro coils , won't be able to get 26 g Kanthal or even occ before a month
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