SVD Reading NON...Could it be the juice?

[jrgleason2003]

Hi All, I had this issue with my SVD before (with my protank) reading NON. I have lifted the center post (haven't tried to replace the grommet yet) but now its reading NON on two different tanks. Here is the odd thing. I tried my protank on my old itaste and it doesn't work. However, I tried my EVOD on my SVD and the itaste, it doesn't work. The only correlation between the two tanks is it has the same juice (Awesome raspberry danish from Mr. Vape) in them. I had a spare evod laying around and I threw some different juice (banana) in it and it works beautifully on both the SVD and the itaste. Could the juice really be causing a problem with the SVD and the itaste from reading the ohms on the tank? Any help with this would be really appreciated.

The juice is 60/40 PG/VG. I've used, successfully 70/30 and 50/50 on both devices.

 

[MrSelf Destruct]

I had the 'non' issue. I had to replace the o-ring under the post to get it to work. #60. Trying to lift the post a little and use it wouldn't work anymore. It would work with my protank if I used an adapter...but that just looked obnoxious. I finally decided to give it a new o-ring and it only took a minute. Haven't had an issue since and I mainly use protanks.

 

[jrgleason2003]

Are you talking about the o-ring under the post of the SVD?

 

[retired1]

Generally, if you get a "NON" reading, the SVD is telling you it's not detecting the resistance of the head. Sometimes backing it off a half turn then snugging it back down fixes that. As you're using Evods and Protanks, another cause would be the head isn't screwed fully into the base.

 

[belsenj]

yes, he is. But...sometimes it's as simple as popping the pin on the svd "up". I have the same problem, and it usually happens when I change out a battery.

If you look down where the pin is and use a small (micro) screwdriver, just lift one of the sides of it, VERY gently. The pin will pop into it's normal position. The SVD pin is on a spring and catches sometimes.

 

[retired1]

The SVD has a spring loaded center pin. Fiddling with it should be an extremely rare occurrence. Not like the Vamo where you tend to have to adjust it more often.

 

[jrgleason2003]

I actually tried to pop the pin with a screw driver, but still no dice I untwisted the head of the EVOD and that is working fine. The protank still isn't working even after popping up the pin though.

 

[XTERRA]

take the coil out ,, pull the pin out from the rubber just abit ,, not all the way ,, then replace the coil head and it should be good ,, sometimes the pin on the coil head gets pushed up to far for the 510 to reach it ,,,

 

[jrgleason2003]

I've popped the pin up on my SVD. I've switched out coils on my Protank but still nothing. The protank doesn't work on my iTaste either. I'm kind of baffled because I've been able to get my EVods to work fine on both of my devices.

 

[retired1]

Again. A reading on "NON" on the SVD means it's not detecting any resistance at all. Pull the clearo off the SVD and press both side buttons, you'll see "NON".

If you have a Protank that does get read easily, check the base of the good one and compare it to the base of the clearo that doesn't work. Are they exactly the same? Is the threading on the bad base a tad longer than the good one?

If you have a spare base, try using it. If the Protank works then, you most likely have a base that's too long and won't work well on any mod.

Playing with the center pin on the SVD should rarely, if ever, need to be done. It's spring loaded and works very well.

 

[Jonathan Tittle]

I've had my SVD for a few months and I've never had to fiddle with the center pin. A NON reading is 99.99% of the time an issue with the coil head or a base that's too long (it happens, I've had to replace 3-4 Protank 2 bases on 5 tanks). Some of the bases are not machined properly, so the coil head goes in at an angle - that'll kill your connection. If the base is too long, you won't get a connection at all.

 

[jrgleason2003]

I've had my SVD for a few months and I've never had to fiddle with the center pin. A NON reading is 99.99% of the time an issue with the coil head or a base that's too long (it happens, I've had to replace 3-4 Protank 2 bases on 5 tanks). Some of the bases are not machined properly, so the coil head goes in at an angle - that'll kill your connection. If the base is too long, you won't get a connection at all.

That is the odd thing is that I've had this protank for a couple months now and only had this issue once, but I fixed it by messing with the SVD pin. Messing with the pin this done didn't fix it. When all this started to happen this go round I was dry burning the coil to clean it and everything was working and then poof, the coil stopped heating (the SVD was still firing though). I tried different coils but unfortunately I do not have a spare base laying around as it is my only protank

 

[Jonathan Tittle]

Some of the bases are just off. If you have a B&M, if they sell the tanks they should stock the bases, otherwise I'd pick on up from on of the vendors here on ECF and see if that works for you. I love the ProTank 2, but the bases should be stainless steel like the rest of it.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 4

 

[itsmedave]

Thanks for this thread. I popped my Puritank on my SVD Yesterday and got non. Took it off, backed it up a bit, and kept going.

 

[Jonathan Tittle]

I've replaced all of the bases on my Protanks II's and not had any issues since, thankfully. As above, they really need to go with SS on all bases, not the el-cheapo aluminum. I'd pay an extra $2-$4 if they'd just give them to me without me having to source them elsewhere.

btw, what part of East TN are you from Dave?

 

[jrgleason2003]

Just an update: The atty/coil was shot. I rewicked and all is well in the world. Thanks for all the advice. I suppose that should have been the first thing I tried!