Switching from mechanical mod to regulated mod

[malcaris]

I have been using mechanical mods for years, but my last one broke yesterday so I ordered a regulated mod. The tesla 160w mod box. I have been doing hours of research to try to find out where to start wattage wise and I am getting conflicting results. I am used to knowing my battery limits and building a simple coil between 0.2 and 0.7 ohms. I also have an Arctic tank with 0.2 coil heads in it. I am asking for others options on where to start my wattage at for various ohms when I get this box so I am not spending hours going from 7w and up.

As a side note I only use vtc4 batteries so the batteries should be an issue.

 

[Susan~S]

If you have run a certain build on a mech and now want to run the same build on a regulated mod just use ohms law to determine what wattage you were running at on your mechanical. You can then adjust upward or downward as you wish.

 

[daviedog]

36 to 40 watts puts you right in the middle..

 

[MrDripper]

Star low and work your way up to find the sweet spot.
Switching from an unregulated to a regulated device will take some getting used to.
Every juice has a different sweet spot so you will have to adjust accordingly.
I still routinely use both regulated and unregulated devices and have always found this to be a bit of a bitter pill but I enjoy the journey.
Vape On!

 

[DingerCPA]

For the 0.2Ω coil, you could potentially be running as hot as 88W (fresh battery) to as cool as 17W (0.7Ω coil at 3.5V)

The beauty of the regulated mod is that now, you will be able to maintain the consistency of the vape throughout the battery charge....

Start low - the 0.7Ω coil around 15W or the 0.2Ω coil around 20W and work your way up until you get to where you like it.

 

[sonicbomb]

Remember with a regulated mod the coil resistance is irrelevant. The mod doesn't care, it will just delivery the selected wattage to it.

If you are going to run the box at it's full 160W, you will be demanding 21amps from each battery at full charge, and about 28amps from each discharged. Make sure you use a cell with an appropriate CDR.

 

[alcarl]

It's going to be a personal preference; but typically on a regulated device, the lower your resistance the higher you'll want your run your wattage. For example, if you have a .2 ohm build, 85 watts on a regulated device should take you to 4.12 volts. I usually build at .4 ohms and usually vape at between 65 watts all day (which is just over 5 volts).

 

[malcaris]

Thank you everyone for the input. I know it will vary but having a starting point will really help me.

 

[alcarl]

Remember with a regulated mod the coil resistance is irrelevant. The mod doesn't care, it will just delivery the selected wattage to it.

If you are going to run the box at it's full 160W, you will be demanding 21amps from each battery at full charge, and about 28amps from each discharged. Make sure you use a cell with an appropriate CDR.

The resistance does matter as per ohms law you still have to be aware of the voltage. If you run a .2 ohm build at 85 watts, you'll be at 4.12 volts. But if you run a 1.2 ohm build at 85 watts, you'll be over 10 volts.

 

[sonicbomb]

The resistance does matter as per ohms law you still have to be aware of the voltage. If you run a .2 ohm build at 85 watts, you'll be at 4.12 volts. But if you run a 1.2 ohm build at 85 watts, you'll be over 10 volts.

I meant irrelevant in terms of having to use low resistance coils to achieve high power levels, and in terms of the amp draw on the batteries. Yes the resistance is relevant to the relationship of amps and volts within the mod, but only to the extent that it needs to be within the operating values defined by the manufacturer. As long as your chipset can do 10 volts, then the power delivered to the coil/s would still be the same.

 

[alcarl]

I meant irrelevant in terms of having to use low resistance coils to achieve high power levels, and in terms of the amp draw on the batteries. Yes the resistance is relevant to the relationship of amps and volts within the mod, but only to the extent that it needs to be within the operating values defined by the manufacturer. As long as your chipset can do 10 volts, then the power delivered to the coil/s would still be the same.

I hear ya... Just didn't want the OP to get confused and think he could crank up the watts on a higher ohm build

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

We've (my wife, myself, and now my daughter) been vaping for a several years, probably way before most, and so, we've had a lot of experience with the earlier stuff, but mechanical mods and rebuilds were never of interest. But as times changed, we switched from basic types to regulated mods where it was always very simple.. to never go over the wattage of the coil and all was fine. But I started getting into it more and more, and did a lot of reading and such before making my last choice. I went with temperature control and am rebuilding my coils now. What I found is that 1) the newer regulated mod can give you a safe approach that matches the experience that mech mods would just a year or two ago. 2) they really make vaping virtually fool proof, and again, adds a lot of safety, and 3) once I started using temp. control, I never would go back to basic wattage.

We use a 0.2 - 0.3 Ohm range, wattage at about 45, and temperature is adjusted on the fly depending on the liquid used.

Having a constant flow, no dry hits, a stable temp. is like a whole different world.

I actually got my TC mod first, and both my wife and daughter would "borrow" it more and more and both "cracked" and got one too, and within a couple of days, looked back at their old mods and tanks and never really want to even touch them again. The difference is that huge.

 

[TruSound]

I was a diehard mech user, always said I'd never switch to a regulated device...famous last words, once I got past the shape I was hooked, the consistent performance no matter the batteries charge level is quite nice.

I live in wattage mode and set it to obtain 4.2 volts...the voltage of a freshly charged battery...I start there and adjust slightly up or down for the sweet spot.

I always take one of my old mechs to work, just in case, mechs never fail...regulated mods can.

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

I always take one of my old mechs to work, just in case, mechs never fail...regulated mods can.

I've heard this for mech mods users now and then, but honestly, in several years, the dozens upon dozens of devices we've had, we had batteries die, one broke by being dropped, but to actually have any of our regulated devices "fail", it's never happened, nor do I know anyone that had one that did. Batteries eventually died off in the non-replaceable type, but fail out of the blue, not once. So this puzzles me when I see someone say this.

 

[suprtrkr]

On a .2 coil, I'd probably start about 50ish watts and work up yo the 85-90 watt range, where you vould have been at 4.2V on a mech. For a .7, start 18-20, and head up into 25+ watt range.