SXK Copper/Red Stingray Clone

[Daddy dan123]

I got a red copper stingray clone from vaping walrus lol 30 bux. Looks nice. Worked great yesterday minus a crunchy button that happened three times and oddly it was during a video for it lol smdh but worked great afterwards. Than today works great all day and all a sudden I'm not getting a crunchy switch but it has miss fired four times now I think? My atty is on tight. Atty doesn't have any loose coil legs it's deff the mod. I'm not familiar with the stingray clone at all or a stingray in general. Anyone know why it has been misfiring on me?

 

[Daddy dan123]

There she is with some patina lol I'm learning quick why ppl ask about green hands lol and I know the tip is brass and the explorer is ss but mine came in a tan magnetic box that said hot lol. With out a drip tip (grrrr clones) lol and the original drip tip that came with the explorer is too loose as is all of my drip tips I try on that atty. and the original drip tip for the explorer leaves a pool of eliquid on the top of the mouth piece and it always gets in my mouth lol. But there's some pics i dont know who made it vaping walrus hasn't answered me back as of now and I'm just curious as to why a brand new magnetic switch is miss firing (yes I know you get what you pay for lmao leave those comments out unless they are real funny) thx

 

[Ed_C]

If by misfiring, you mean it's not firing when you push the button, it's not making contact. It may be that it hanging up and the switch is not making it all the way in. Also these switches need to be pressed pretty close to the center. You may want to do what others, including myself, have done and clean, sand and apply Vaseline to the inside of the switch.
I haven't had issues with the copper turning green with my SKX Stingray clone. Probably a difference in my body chemistry. Also my hasn't really started to patina much after 3 week.

 

[Daddy dan123]

Lol mine has in one day lol so I can see it being a pain to keep polished lol. I may have no choice but to like the patina I can barely afford ejuice let alone polish to polish it everyday (unless I clear coat it or something) I need to learn to make ejuice lol. Asap. But yes you are correct when I press it the mod won't fire. It's only happened like four or five times and everything is tight and connected. I did learn today that the crunchy button is from not pressing directly in the sweet spot which mine seems to be right of center a bit lmao. No biggie. It is a smooth switch when I hit the sweet spot on it. But that problem I have with it not firing sometimes kind of worries me. Thank you so much I'm gonna look on how to take it apart clean it and sand it and apply vasoline if needed. By the way mine has the magnetic switch which the contacts are copper. Do I polish them with something to clean them or can I use 91% rubbing alcohol to clean the contacts

 

[HeiSINberg]

This is mine after about a week or 2 of on and off use. Patinas pretty fast, I have 3 copper mods and this and my Tres mod patina the fastest. It seems like the tighter I screw my button on the better it works, go figure. The only thing I did was dremel the chanel the rice pin sits in, it wasnt completely open on one end to allow it to move. If your looking for cheap polish what I use is Mothers Mag and Aluminum polish. Works great and I can use it for my car as well, dual purposes, I recently got Cape Cod Cloths and they work great too, only takes not even 2 minutes to completely polish everything and the cloths are reusable too.

 

[Daddy dan123]

Nice pic. You mean the tighter the throw or the tighter you screw the actual button in to the battery tube

 

[HeiSINberg]

Nice pic. You mean the tighter the throw or the tighter you screw the actual button in to the battery tube

Well yes that was just my particular situation. Not too tight as to harm the battery but at first the looser the switch the better it fired but now for some reason its the opposite.

 

[Daddy dan123]

Lol go figure eh lol. I'm kinda new to mech mods I only have a panzer and atomic and my stingray with explorer for now. I'm not new to vv/vw or coil building etc. I always use rubbing alcohol for my 510 contact on my svd so I was hoping it would work on my panzer contacts and the copper contacts on my stingray lol. So hopefully I don't ruin this thing taking it apart and looking at the switch and trying to clean it. Does the Vaseline last a long time on the threads?

 

[HeiSINberg]

Lol go figure eh lol. I'm kinda new to mech mods I only have a panzer and atomic and my stingray with explorer for now. I'm not new to vv/vw or coil building etc. I always use rubbing alcohol for my 510 contact on my svd so I was hoping it would work on my panzer contacts and the copper contacts on my stingray lol. So hopefully I don't ruin this thing taking it apart and looking at the switch and trying to clean it. Does the Vaseline last a long time on the threads?

Not too sure about the vaseline but it seems to work for everyone. I just know with 3 of the stingray clones I have I took the switch apart on only 2 of them to clean them and left the black copper switch alone, and the 2 I took apart to clean suffered from the crunch button but not the one I didnt take apart and clean. Not too sure why that is.

 

[sahsah]

The one at 101 has the engraving from the black/copper and not the engraving that was on the red/copper. Don't like this one as well.
Oh and no logo on the bottom.

Ya if I remember correctly the v1 from infinite is the one with the proper engravings to match the authentic copper red LE stingray while the v2 has the engravings of the copper black along with a blank switch ie no engraving like the copper black also. All of this leads me to the conclusion that the "v2" is in fact just a whole bunch of extra copper blacks they had lying around that weren't being sold fast enough so they had the bringht idea (note the sarcasm*) to simply polish off the black coating so that the underlying copper was all that was left and now they can repackage it as a copper red LE v2 and all the trusting consumers who aren't that detail oriented might miss the differences it bears from the mod it's supposed to be cloning. Pretty ....ty if you ask me, if that is in fact what they did...IMO the evidence is in favor of this theory.

 

[sahsah]

Some quick pics of mine.





The switch needed some TLC but I expected that. Some 800 grit polished the parts up just fine.
This Mod was worth the money and the wait. It hits just as hard as my Copper Vanilla.
The button is smooth and works every time ( after the TLC)
The seam were the tubes meet is a 8/10, May be better after the pitina sets it.

So are none of the copper red clones actually coming with individual whole tubes for each battery size ie 350,490/500,650, like the authentic copper red LE comes? If not, that's really a shame because I think part of the beauty that comes with the authentic is that seamless look in what ever battery size you are using...especially if you throw on the hybrid connector jd tech offers for it. I hope a legit cloner gets on top of that and comes out with that clone because I'd totally be in for one. Also, can anyone who got the v1 ie the ones with the correct engravings comment on whether the switch had any issues, because I kno from owning a legit that switch crunchiness kind of comes along with the territory, although it can be remedied. Just wondering if that's something I'll have to look out for on the clones as well...?? Thanks in advance to any answers that anyone can provide =]
Keep on vaping all you cloud-chasing cowboys (and cowgirls)

 

[sahsah]

Some quick pics of mine.





The switch needed some TLC but I expected that. Some 800 grit polished the parts up just fine.
This Mod was worth the money and the wait. It hits just as hard as my Copper Vanilla.
The button is smooth and works every time ( after the TLC)
The seam were the tubes meet is a 8/10, May be better after the pitina sets it.

would you be so kind as to elaborate in as much detail as you can muster the process you utilized to remedy the dreaded stingray crunch of death? Lol thanks

 

[Ed_C]

So are none of the copper red clones actually coming with individual whole tubes for each battery size ie 350,490/500,650, like the authentic copper red LE comes? If not, that's really a shame because I think part of the beauty that comes with the authentic is that seamless look in what ever battery size you are using...especially if you throw on the hybrid connector jd tech offers for it. I hope a legit cloner gets on top of that and comes out with that clone because I'd totally be in for one. Also, can anyone who got the v1 ie the ones with the correct engravings comment on whether the switch had any issues, because I kno from owning a legit that switch crunchiness kind of comes along with the territory, although it can be remedied. Just wondering if that's something I'll have to look out for on the clones as well...?? Thanks in advance to any answers that anyone can provide =]
Keep on vaping all you cloud-chasing cowboys (and cowgirls)

The Copper JD Tech didn't come with 3 full tubes either. It had 2 full tubes and 1 extension, while the clones have 1 full tube 2 extensions. Oddly enough, the Brass JD Techs are configured like the clone. I guess it was easier when they started to clone the copper, to keep the same configuration as before.

The seam isn't really that noticeable and it doesn't really bother me. Although I agree, full tubes would be nicer.

There was one clone that had all 3 full tubes, but the pictures aren't very impressive and the engraving looks like hell.

Stingray Copper/Red Editon with Extra Tubes - Vapor Tek USA

 

[vi3tl2ice]

Did you see?
Caveat: Some of the buttons on the Red Copper and Black Copper Stingrays are a bit crunchy and can be inconsistent; however, there is a very easy fix:
- Remove the button
- Unscrew the white plastic magnet housing and remove
- There is another screw with a magnet under the white piece. Unscrew it 1/4 - 1/2 turn.
- Replace the white plastic magnet housing and screw back in.
- Do not over-tighten the button when you screw it back into the tube

Mine's not bad after I sanded down the edges of the switch. This seems to shorten the throw and didn't really seem to help mine.

This does not affect the throw of the switch. The only thing it does is further the space from the button from the main body. Throw remains the same. The only way that i found to shorten the throw is to increase the thickness of the magnet that screws into the button (not the magnet that makes direct contact with the battery). What i did was cut about a few circular pieces of paper (same diameter as the magnet) and cut holes in the middle so that it fits right over the threading and right under the magnet. after that you just assemble the button as usual. 5 pieces of paper makes the throw finger touch sensitive.