my thoughts exactly, apparently those are the v2 by infinite. I just pray that the only changes were to the engravings and not improvements in fit/finish or quality bc that would really blow, since I'd never get that one, just don't like that logo at all, while I love the phantom brass logo with the deep engraving
can you please detail your process bc that looks amazing. You go horizontally with your tricks? Please, the more detail the better since I'd be a total novice at this kind of job...illitirit,
This may help ya handle the seem. I took some 400 grit sandpaper and gave the tubes a brush finish
don't feel too bad, I've got an authentic phantom brass and the switch was a nightmare when it arrived, virtually unusable and I ordered directly from the maker, Drew, of jd tech. Can you elaborate where you applied the Vaseline in the switch? Also, have you found it makes upkeep a PIA? Like how often do you reapply and have you noticed any effect to the mods conductivity from it?To update the past 3 days I have spent with the red copper stingray:
Pros:
-Looks great
-Mine came in aesthetically pristine condition
-Love the floating top cap pin
-Hits hard -- Measured voltage drop on 0.4 ohm dual coil on VTC5 batteries came out to 0.23v drop. My brass nemesis with same configuration was almost double the voltage drop @ 0.41v drop.
Cons:
-The real red copper 'LE' stingray includes 18350+18500 tubes with an 18650 extension. This version is only 18350 tube with 500/650 extensions.
-I wish it was a bit more seamless
-I have 1460/1000 serial #. Not a big deal since a clone, but like I said in an earlier post.... Come on china.
-THE .......N BUTTON.
This is the biggest con. When I first got it, the thing would get stuck, would crunch up, it was just a freaking nightmare.
I took Peppie's information and went to town with 800 grit sandpaper on all of the internals of the switch. It did help the smoothness, but it was still crunchy and got stuck depending on how your finger would put pressure on it.
I went back again and used 400 grit then 1000/1500 grit this time, it helped and made it much more useable. It still however gets stuck. I then coated the internals of the switch with vaseline and that made a huge difference.
My switch now is smooth with an extremely short throw, BUT it still gets stuck from time to time.
Example scenario: I go for a vape, fire it, take my finger off the button, its still firing. Doesnt stop until I actually physically pull the stuck button out.
Extremely annoying, but im sure with more work I can get it to stop.
The only way I have found to combat this stuck button problem is that when vaping I have to release my finger from the button very quickly instead of slowly which im used to. Almost like a flicking outward motion with my pinky.
TL;DR ==== If your not willing to put in work with this button I would say stay the f * * * away from purchasing it.
Quick Pic :
can anyone post a tutorial on this, I'd be extremely grateful" ...Ended up taking off the locking ring, and grinding material off the end of the tube, making it thinner, and gave the edge a bit of chamfor. This made the biggest difference, and everything is fine now. Happy camper!"
I can almost guarantee you this will fix it. It's worked for me and others.
are you sure it's the tube that's catching bc I thought the issue was centered at where the rice pin sits
do you think this would address the crunchiness of my phantom brass authentic as well, bc I'd always thought the issue resided in the switch housing, specifically where the rice pin sits and slides past
Looks nice in the pics. What eBay seller did you get that from?
It might be a combination of the two. The smaller rice pins allow for the switch to giggle a bit and might be why the switch is digging into the tube. I ordered some nemesis pins, which I think are bigger, to try out.
I'm not sure. I bought mine from Codevape on eBay. Mine was from SXK and I was told that they were the manufacturer for Infinite. I've seen some other mods on eBay listed as SXK/Infinite.
Did you see?
I would be interested to hear how the Nemesis pins work for your SR switch. I'm still convinced that pin is the cause of most the crunchiness but haven't yet tried to find a replacement.
Thanks for the update on those pins especially. Haven't sanded anything down yet so guess I'll get busting on that tomorrow.
