T3S Question

[Dave379]

I just received the T3S and I'm having some issues with it. I'm using a Lavatube 2.5 with a 510 to Ego adapter as well as a Vision Spinner 1300 battery. For some reason I'm having to screw the T3S down awful hard on my Lavatube to get it to fire. Once it's screwed down real tight it works fine but it drained both of my batteries in about 1 1/2 hours each. The draw is fine on the Lavatube but when I try to use the T3S on my Spinner battery it has an extremely hard draw. I also have to screw down the T3S very tight on the Spinner to get it to fire and even after screwing it down very tight it still wouldn't fire some of the time. At first I thought it might just be a bad coil head but I tried another one and it was the same. I notice that there is a slight gap between the base and the actual tank. It's not a huge gap but it is definitely noticeable. It doesn't seem like the base is screwing into the tank like it should. I'm thinking this might be the problem. Can anyone tell me if it is normal to have a gap between the base and the tank or should it screw down flush? Thanks ahead of time.

 

[GreatestUnKnown]

-How my T3s looks and performs well.


Is the gap that you are describing?

 

[Dave379]

I'm talking about the gap between the base and the chrome piece that the base screws in to. The chrome piece says "KangerTech T3S" in white lettering. The gap that I'm referring to is right below the white lettering. I'm not referring to the gap between the base and the device. I cant see a gap on your first picture but I can see one on your second picture although its hard to tell if its as bad as mine. I going to post a couple of pictures and maybe you can tell.

 

[crxess]

T3s Base to T3 should be tight. Almost invisible gap.
Draw should be tested off the Device - If draw is good, Device is restricting air flow in some way.
Only 510/EGO adapters with a through hole(open center) should be used. Air is drawn up from the Base of the center pin.

Over tightening to the Device to get contact is due to either:
Battery device pin is compressed(pushed down) or
T3s center pin is to high. Can be manually pulled down a bit.

 

[GreatestUnKnown]

What I suggest doing is first separating the tank and base and examining the threads if all looks good there then next focus on the coil head and base.

The coil threads into the base around a silicone seal, ensure the seal is not pinched within the threads and the coil seats firmly, next examine the coil head itself.

The stem that you used to twist the coil head onto the base can be removed so ensure that this stem is fully seated on the coil cup. Lastly there is another silicone seal on the stem that will meet with theair tube running the length of your tank up to the tip, check to make sure it is not causing any interference(other than a seal to hold the juice in) when connecting the base assembly to the tank assembly.

I hope this was not too confusing and I apologize for the pictures, I have been having trouble getting pictures to display on ECF from my photobucket. If you need more clarification we can figure this out man!

GL

 

[floofgoofer]

Mostly what they saiid!

Check first if the chimney is seated fully into the atomizer, and the atomizer is threaded fully into the base. These two things would likely cause leakage, so I suspect it is not that, but maybe. That leaves the rubber 'cap' that sitsaround the chimney and over the atomizer - If that is pinched somehow it could cause your gap. Its hard to tell from the photo.

Try removing and re-seating all those 3 pieces and you'll probably find the culprit. FWIW, I don't generally use the rubber cap on the chimney, though most do, just letting you know you can try without it, if it's causing you issues.

 

[Dave379]

T3s Base to T3 should be tight. Almost invisible gap.
Draw should be tested off the Device - If draw is good, Device is restricting air flow in some way.
Only 510/EGO adapters with a through hole(open center) should be used. Air is drawn up from the Base of the center pin.

Over tightening to the Device to get contact is due to either:
Battery device pin is compressed(pushed down) or
T3s center pin is to high. Can be manually pulled down a bit.

Well, I tried a different coil head, screwed it together and the gap is gone and it works fine on my Lavatube without having to screw it down tight. Now it just screws down to a certain point and that's it, it wont screw down any further. In other words, it seems to be screwing down like it should now. On the other hand when I try it on my Spinner battery it still has a very hard draw unless I loosen it up quite a bit. I hate having to leave it loose like that. It must have been a bad head that I started out with but I'm still a little confused why the T3S doesn't work better than what it does on my Spinner batteries.

 

[crxess]

It's not just your spinner.
Over the last 6 months I have seen many post about issues with tight draw and the spinner. I believe their 510 design may be to deep and blocks the air channeling of many devices. eVod owner make the same complaint.

 

[Anthal69]

Does your lava tube even have ego threads? My 1.5t doesn't. I had to buy a 510 to ego adapter to use my t3s


Thread killa!

 

[Dave379]

It's not just your spinner.
Over the last 6 months I have seen many post about issues with tight draw and the spinner. I believe their 510 design may be to deep and blocks the air channeling of many devices. eVod owner make the same complaint.

I think you're right. I think the Spinner battery allows the T3S to screw down to far which cuts off a lot of the air flow. I guess I'm relegated to use the T3S on my Lavatube only. On the bright side, I do like the way it works on my Lavatube. It produces a good flavor in my opinion and I like the fact that it holds more than the Evods. The Evods seem to work fine on my Spinner batteries though. I actually block off one of the air vent holes because the draw is a little on the airy side. Live and learn
Thanks for your help.

 

[Dave379]

Yeah Anthal69, like I said, I'm using a 510 to Ego adapter. The thing I hate about the adapter is that sometimes it comes out with the tank when I unscrew it. It's not a lot of fun getting it out when that happens.

 

[Anthal69]

Oh sorry, guess I glossed over that, lol.


Thread killa!

 

[GreatestUnKnown]

Glad you could at least get it to work on one device well. I also like the T3S Clearo...have tried a PT2 preferred the look of the T3S for less than half the price.

 

[Train2]

That gap looks a bit more than usual, and I've had an issue like this.
When I got new bases to "upgrade" an old T3, one fit, one didn't.
Can you contact the vendor? It might just be a poorly threaded base... That won't solve the tight draw issue - but it might fix some of the other concerns.

 

[Dave379]

Glad you could at least get it to work on one device well. I also like the T3S Clearo...have tried a PT2 preferred the look of the T3S for less than half the price.

Yeah, I haven't had much luck with any of the ProTanks. They seem to work pretty good for some flavors but I always get a burnt taste with the sweeter flavors that I vape on a regular basis. I've tried all the tricks, removing wicks, removing grommet, etc. I think the T3S and the Evods produce a lot better flavor but that's just my opinion.

 

[umanbean]

Yeah Anthal69, like I said, I'm using a 510 to Ego adapter. The thing I hate about the adapter is that sometimes it comes out with the tank when I unscrew it. It's not a lot of fun getting it out when that happens.

The edge of a penny fits perfectly into two opposing air slots in the top of a 510-eGo adapter... I use the penny like a "screwdriver" to snug it up so it won't come loose.

re: the gap between the base and tank. The same thing happened to me. My problem was inadvertantly using a ProTank head in a T3S.

As far as I can tell the two heads are identical, except the outside diameter of the skirt just above the o-ring seal on the heads is different. On T3S heads, that skirt is 9mm... on ProTank/Evod heads the skirt is 10mm, and makes contact with a ledge inside the T3S tank, which prevents the base from screwing all the way in. (I hope that made sense, it's still early. )

 

[sbc83]

What he said ^. I had similiar issue when playing with evod heads in mt3s/t3s.

 

[Rickajho]

What umanbean said. It sounds like the OP has a mixed bag of PT/EVOD heads and T3s/MT3s heads. That flat metal washer right below the wicks is a different diameter on the two different heads, and the base is machined differently to fit their different diameters. If you stick a PT/EVOD head in a T3s base, that washer on the PT head is too large and doesn't' seat into the fitting it's supposed to go into - it rides on top of it.

There is a difference between these two heads and the corresponding bases they are designed to fit into. You can tell them apart just by looking at the metal washer of the two different heads side by side.

 

[SupplyDaddy]

What umanbean said. It sounds like the OP has a mixed bag of PT/EVOD heads and T3s/MT3s heads. That flat metal washer right below the wicks is a different diameter on the two different heads, and the base is machined differently to fit their different diameters. If you stick a PT/EVOD head in a T3s base, that washer on the PT head is too large and doesn't' seat into the fitting it's supposed to go into - it rides on top of it.

There is a difference between these two heads and the corresponding bases they are designed to fit into. You can tell them apart just by looking at the metal washer of the two different heads side by side.

^ This IS your problem.
Had this issue when I 1st got the T3S bases for my MT3. One of the MT3s actually popped up at the top instead of getting a gap at the bottom.

 

[crxess]

The edge of a penny fits perfectly into two opposing air slots in the top of a 510-eGo adapter... I use the penny like a "screwdriver" to snug it up so it won't come loose.

Don't do this. On almost every Device with a controller, it can permanently damage the device. Most positive pins are only meant to move a slight amount. They sit in a isolation grommet. Force tightening causes the grommet to fail and or Pin to be driven to deep. Eventual result is a short.

Dave379, did you buy extra heads?
If yes, check the description of what you ordered in your account information at the dealer.

Does sound like you got some Evod/PT heads.
If the Dealer made the mistake they should correct it.