Taifun GT Discusion!

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dwcraig1

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I used a TGT 1 for the photo but a TGT II is needed for this.
Tighten all screws and mount in vise (protected)
14674_995198657171025_2787136805121613810_n.jpg

Here's the wheel(s)
11161352_995198627171028_4802944090485548949_n.jpg

And last pretending to cut.
11174794_995198703837687_1107875390544046229_n.jpg
 
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Phone Guy

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I used a TGT 1 for the photo but a TGT II is needed for this.
Tighten all screws and mount in vise (protected)
14674_995198657171025_2787136805121613810_n.jpg

Here's the wheel(s)
11161352_995198627171028_4802944090485548949_n.jpg

And last pretending to cut.
11174794_995198703837687_1107875390544046229_n.jpg
Thanks Dwcraig1. I've been using my Taifun GT (2) since I got the new base. Excellent flavor, the draw for me is very nice but I'd love it if it were a little more airy. I've not had the best of luck with physical modifications, but I'm going to try it soon.

I had been using my SqR almost exclusively, before now switching back to the taifun.
 

Phone Guy

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Just learned something I can't do on XF in the browser, I can't email a link to a specific post. I was going to email myself the link to your above picture post of the slotting of the air holes. I can't select the post and share like I could with tapatalk. :(

I hope they get tapatalk working again soon.
 

Puffaway

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taifun-base-arrow.jpg
(Apologies if the image doesn't appear inline; seems to be some problem somewhere ... maybe :unsure: )

Can we talk about that arrowed O ring please?
It's on a GT2 replacement base I bought from FT (SKU 2047500).
I use it with a chimney from a GT1. (I was stupid and should have ordered a base and chimney together.)
The chimney slides up and down (and off) like butter on the GT1.
On the GT2 base it's tight. So tight that I have to replace the O ring every few days because the slightest swelling causes it to jam good and proper.
The diameter the O ring sits on are:
GT1 12.68mm
GT2 12.75mm
so that's just 0.07mm difference.
I think the O ring is a nominal 10x1mm (ID x section dia.). I have to rummage through lots of O rings every time to find one that's just right. At the moment I have a stretched 8x1mm on there and it's OK but it's my last one :(
Next time it may have to be some wraps of dental floss or PTFE tape instead of an O ring. :ohmy:
Any thoughts gratefully received.
 

dwcraig1

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^^^ Well the sleeves are "meant" to be interchangeable and the grooves on the decks "should" be the same diameter but since we're dealing with clones and perhaps of different manufacturers things can become a little off. I would try taking some Emory cloth to the inside of the sleeve or a jeweler's file to the groove that the o-ring sits in. (to take the corners off the groove to make it wider)
I have done both of these things before. Maybe just get a bunch of 8 x 1's
 

TheKiwi

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I have a couple of these but have you noticed that it pushes the well/cap down further than usual? Mine does it on both (TG1's)

It does! But not too much that it bothers me. I'm using a tgt2, and I actually don't tighten the top cap down much


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Phone Guy

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The bell caps are plastic right? They seem to be all the rage, I like my metal/plastic tank better... Sooner or later I'll get the metal/glass tank, but I don't do tank crackers... So it's just cosmetic for me.

Nano, bell caps, etc... The only add on tank I ever got was the 10ml long tank for my kayfun. I want more ejuice, not less. LOL
 
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chanelvaps

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Trying to get my brain to figure this out to no avail....I have had zero leaks..none..since changing two of mine over to the acrylic tank. So that tells me it is not my wicking style.
Trying then to narrow it down to what it is (was) and it had to be somewhere in my top cap or chamber because neither the well or the base orings have been changed
 

dwcraig1

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Trying to get my brain to figure this out to no avail....I have had zero leaks..none..since changing two of mine over to the acrylic tank. So that tells me it is not my wicking style.
Trying then to narrow it down to what it is (was) and it had to be somewhere in my top cap or chamber because neither the well or the base orings have been changed
It is probably the 4 x 1 mm o-ring on the chimney stem, or it's groove may be cut a little too deep.
 

chanelvaps

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It is probably the 4 x 1 mm o-ring on the chimney stem, or it's groove may be cut a little too deep.
So this is the fix that requires the dental floss wrap in the groove? Actually I think I did replace orings at the well because both of them are tight now. That might have also been a problem
 

dwcraig1

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So this is the fix that requires the dental floss wrap in the groove? Actually I think I did replace orings at the well because both of them are tight now. That might have also been a problem
With it apart you can 'test fit" the stem into the cap, you should be able to feel the drag from the o-ring this way if correct.
Later FT type B seems to have the problem of too deep a groove, others perhaps also.
 

Puffaway

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My FT GT-T 2 clones are really doing well but I'm slowly coming to the conclusion that they hit a sweet spot when the juice level is just around the top of the wick holes (bottom of the chimney cap). From then on the draw is just right (for me, at any rate), the flavour is just a bit more intense and the vapour is a touch more dense (maybe).
It's a .12 ohm (rock solid) nickel coil + cotton + DNA40 and I can enjoy top notch vaping until it's dry.
Standard glass tank or PC bell tank behave similarly, AFC is always fully open.

At the moment I'm just refilling about half a tank to get that sweet spot quickly. I'd love to be able to fill a full tank and get that same performance all the way through.

I think my coil and wicking is OK, the temp protection (at 195C 383F) never kicks in until dry.
I'm guessing it's the vacuum at half full that's getting the juice/air mix spot on? (Not to mention that curiously enjoyable "springy" draw that just pulls back a touch; maybe that's just my imagination though.)

Any thoughts gratefully received!
 
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