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Hi Chanelvaps. I'm trying to love it... but it ain't easy. I know it's a clone, but still. The threads are crunchy to say the least; the chimney needs a lot of brute force to operate (push up, down and remove); the post screws are pathetic. I started with the acrylic bell cap and when I opened the tank to refill, the chimney cap got stuck on the inner post of the dome and wouldn't budge--had to use needle nose pliers to get it out.
No more acrylic bells for me.Another problem is filling--I can't get a lot of eliquid into that tank to begin with, and then, as the liquid level goes down, the wicking stops working (because the wicks are so high in the tank). I may try a straw refilling method next time--I only got an hour or so of vaping at 11 watts before I had to refill again. But the vape was nice--while it lasted.
Next time I'll experiment with my nano section (tank and cap separate), but not for a while. Back to my Kayfun 4 Tobeco clone, which is still in the lead.
hmmm when you use the 'all in one' bell caps you do have to push the chamber and cap down farther than you would with the tank that comes with it. Almost down twice as far. Try, next time, to assemble with no juice, just for a trial, and push that chamber down much further.Hi Chanelvaps. I'm trying to love it... but it ain't easy. I know it's a clone, but still. The threads are crunchy to say the least; the chimney needs a lot of brute force to operate (push up, down and remove); the post screws are pathetic. I started with the acrylic bell cap and when I opened the tank to refill, the chimney cap got stuck on the inner post of the dome and wouldn't budge--had to use needle nose pliers to get it out.
Another problem is filling--I can't get a lot of eliquid into that tank to begin with, and then, as the liquid level goes down, the wicking stops working (because the wicks are so high in the tank). I may try a straw refilling method next time--I only got an hour or so of vaping at 11 watts before I had to refill again. But the vape was nice--while it lasted.
Next time I'll experiment with my nano section (tank and cap separate), but not for a while. Back to my Kayfun 4 Tobeco clone, which is still in the lead.
Mine are clones too and it does take bit of fidgeting to get it right but when you do nothing else will compare.
I'm not sure I understand... I have this acrylic tank (and the base with chimney and chimney cap):
$2.06 Replacement Acrylic Tank for Taifun GT-T V2 RTA - translucent at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
I installed the coil, wicked, and pulled the chimney all the way up--as instructed--screwed on the chimney cap, filled the tank and screwed the base onto the tank... What do you mean by 'chamber'? The chimney itself?
yes. I think you are calling a chimney what I call a chamber (thing that covers the coil and has a cap)try pulling the chimney up LESS-the oring should just barely get covered when you push it into the chimney. I have that acrylic tank (several) and the same thing happens to me
I thought it had to be either all the way down (for wicking and such) or pulled up til it clicks...
Thanks, I'll experiment with that chimney (chamber) later.
My testing operation has been delayed at least until Saturday, San Francisco ISC took their good old time with it but it's moving again.
Here is a sneak peak at the high tech apparatus that I'll be using to compare the flow between a slotted TGT II and a stock one.
Oh, one item is missing, the water.
Here is a sneak peak at the high tech apparatus that I'll be using to compare the flow between a slotted TGT II and a stock one.
Oh, one item is missing, the water.
Weird science science scienceMy testing operation has been delayed at least until Saturday, San Francisco ISC took their good old time with it but it's moving again.
Here is a sneak peak at the high tech apparatus that I'll be using to compare the flow between a slotted TGT II and a stock one.
Oh, one item is missing, the water.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Don't forget the bra on the head.
In most cases yes, with the acrylic tank no. I am not sure why and might be the oring is too big to glide in and out smoothly but It works for me to lower the chimney a little past where it locksI thought it had to be either all the way down (for wicking and such) or pulled up til it clicks...
Thanks, I'll experiment with that chimney (chamber) later.
I have several TGT2 clones and several FT acrylic bell caps (I like them a lot as the vape seems more constant from full to empty compared with a standard tank).
My experience is, in every case, the chimney has to be seated firmly in the normal "up" position. If it isn't it will eventually leak/gurgle. With care* the bell will screw on easily (on my bases at least) and the O ring on it's centre stalk will slide gracefully into the chimney's cap; when fully tightened you can't see the ring if you look from the side.
* With care means:
Putting a tiny bit of lubrication juice around the hole in the chimney cap and/or the tank stalk O ring.
When new, holding the chimney cap by its threads (in needle noses), fitting the hat over the stalk O ring and checking they just glide together with just a hint of resistance. (I have one tank/chimney combination where they don't mate at all.)
Making sure the tank and base are straight and playing nice when screwing them together; the chimney doesn't rotate or move down into the base and its cap doesn't tighten. (All these things have happened to me but not necessarily with the FT bell tank.)
Even now, after months of playing with TGT1s and 2s, I still make mistakes if I don't pay attention when assembling and find that the chimney gets pushed down off its seating by the O ring rather than mating properly. It generally works first off because the stalk ring makes a tenuous seal with the rim of the hole but will eventually start leaking because the unseated chimney is free to rock and roll.
Note:
I've never really been happy with the O ring mechanism responsible for seating the chimney collar / chamber. I try all various combinations of 10/11/12mm x 1 mm rings and get it working OK. Next wicking time round, the collar is again too tight or too loose and needs fiddling with again. I've now settled for making it medium tight and just pulling the darn thing off to rewick - a la Kayfun.
I'm in the middle of my flow rest but thought I'd put up these pics of the coil that I believe is at least 3 weeks old and heavily used during that time. BTW it seems to still work quite well. I'm going to try save the 28 gauge annealed coil but doubt that the wick will come out easily.
OK flow test is done and even I'm amazed with the difference. I tooted on both of them prior to the test and they seemed close.
I drained 100 ml of water through each (4x) and timed it with the second hand of my watch.
The stock one took 93 seconds and the slotted one took 17 second to drain to the very bottom of the funnels spout. That's better than 500% difference.
Now I realize that my test was done with water and air would be better perhaps but I fele the test is still a good representation of the difference in flow between them.
Now going to slot the new one.
EDIT: It seems I did a major blunder here, when I went to give the new one a super good cleaning I found some lint inside the base and re-tested it.
A big surprise for me again, they have almost the same flow. The stock one came in at 19 seconds. What is that? like 10%
I think I'll just skip slotting this one.
OK flow test is done and even I'm amazed with the difference. I tooted on both of them prior to the test and they seemed close.
I drained 100 ml of water through each (4x) and timed it with the second hand of my watch.
The stock one took 93 seconds and the slotted one took 17 second to drain to the very bottom of the funnels spout. That's better than 500% difference.
Now I realize that my test was done with water and air would be better perhaps but I fele the test is still a good representation of the difference in flow between them.
Now going to slot the new one.
EDIT: It seems I did a major blunder here, when I went to give the new one a super good cleaning I found some lint inside the base and re-tested it.
A big surprise for me again, they have almost the same flow. The stock one came in at 19 seconds. What is that? like 10%
I think I'll just skip slotting this one.
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Vaping it now, un-slotted, the only thing I'm noticing is it's quieter.
Here's the insides of the Hotcig TGT 2S.
I did Dremel out the wick slots to 3.5 mm though.
Here's the insides of the Hotcig TGT 2S.
I did Dremel out the wick slots to 3.5 mm though.
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So in the end you feel the slotted air flow is only a minimal improvement? (assuming I'm reading your tests correctly)
I got 10% more flow slotted give or take...
I was expecting 30 - 40
Can you imagine if I hadn't seen that lint ball? My my
I was expecting 30 - 40
Can you imagine if I hadn't seen that lint ball? My my
I was in my local DIY store looking at Dremels yesterday. You've just removed one of my reasons for buying one!
Good grief! I must have missed something Daniel.
Have you somehow managed to pull / drift the deck out of the base? Or are Hotcigs a screw (or O ring) fit?
I'm off to find my blowlamp and club hammer.
That's how the Hotcig is.
Dremel is a great tool, buy one
Dremel is a great tool, buy one
About that gunked up coil that I said that still worked pretty good, well it works great now (dry burn/wick)
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