I did buy extra o rings for it. Maybe they should be changed. No idea how old it is since I bought it used.
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"air leak on top tank o-ring also should be considered" are you talking about the part that screws down onto the chamber? Is that an 11"
Seriously? That can not be responsible for leakage out of the air hole though..right? My leakage is coming out of the airhole
When there is any leakage, either through the chimney cap, the slots or the base o-ring, liquid will build up in the chamber, and, with a loss of the pressure seal because of the leak, it will leak out of the air hole. So, the answer is YES, any of those leaks will cause a leak out of the air hole.
The vacuum is what keeps all the juice from flowing through the wicks and flooding. You need both agoot wick and solid o rings.
Sometimes, when I get flooding I just open it up and add a little extra cotton/rayon over the wicks where they go through the slots. It's easier than rewicking.
Finally, removing the air tube can make flooding much worse. Lots of folks remove it to get an airier draw but that little tube sticking up into the build deck helps keep any extra juice or condensation from going out the air hole. I don't know the solution to that since I prefer the draw with the tube installed, more like a cigarette.
Best of luck. The taifun is my favorite atomizer. You'll enjoy it.
Sometimes, when I get flooding I just open it up and add a little extra cotton/rayon over the wicks where they go through the slots. It's easier than rewicking.
Finally, removing the air tube can make flooding much worse. Lots of folks remove it to get an airier draw but that little tube sticking up into the build deck helps keep any extra juice or condensation from going out the air hole. I don't know the solution to that since I prefer the draw with the tube installed, more like a cigarette.
Best of luck. The taifun is my favorite atomizer. You'll enjoy it.
I copied and pasted this from the Kayfun manual, same applies to Taifun and many others:
Another example: Take a straw, deep half of it vertically in the water, close the top opening of the straw with your finger and pull it out of the water. Low air pressure at the top of the straw will hold water in it, but as soon as you release your finger the sealing of the air bubble is broken, pressure equalizes and water discharges. Kayfun works on the same principle.
When the user initiates the inhalation process, negative pressure is formed inside the evaporation chamber which draws a small amount of e-liquid through the grooves (2j) into the evaporation chamber where it gets absorbed by the wick located directly above these grooves. Low pressure is produced in the tank due to the transfer of e-liquid to the evaporation chamber. When the user has completed the inhalation process, the pressure in both the evaporation chamber and the tank are normalized due to the air being passed back into the tank through the ducts.
During the inhalation process, the evaporation chamber receives liquid from the tank through the grooves (2j) and after the inhalation the tank receives air from the evaporation chamber. This process can be visually observed as air bubbles rising from the grooves in the tank (provided the transparent ring is being used).
E-liquid that entered the evaporation chamber during the inhalation is absorbed by the wick. The wick is saturated and distributes e-liquid over the coil. The coil heats up and "atomizes" liquid. At the next inhalation this cycle is repeated until there is no more liquid in the tank or the battery is depleted.
Technically, what we have is a pressure seal with a slow leak. We are slowly leaking juice into the chamber and slowly leaking air into the tank. This is basic mechanical operation of the Bernoulli principle. I think State of Flux wrote about this, as have others, some time back, and I still refer new vapers to his blog:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...type-atomizers-new-vapists-how-they-work.html
Good luck.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...type-atomizers-new-vapists-how-they-work.html
Good luck.
wow thanks for all the info-I read it all and have to say I was clueless to how it all worked before. The wick really does function as a seal of sorts so it really is important to get it right.
I guess I thought I was home free as long as I did not have a "leaky Taifun" and really all I know now is that there are lots of variables here
I guess I thought I was home free as long as I did not have a "leaky Taifun" and really all I know now is that there are lots of variables here
I have gurgling again tonight, but not flooding. So I'm just going to replace the o rings instead of playing guess and check. I doubt my wicking skills have gone to hell suddenly.
When I vape airhole up, the gurgling does subside. So it must be a minor air leak me thinks.
Mine does have the airtube removed, but its been fine for almost 3 weeks. And did have a torn o ring upon arrival. Hopefully an o ring overhaul gets it back working well.
Whatever it is, it only acts up as my liquid level goes down. Started at the exact same time tonight as last night.
When I vape airhole up, the gurgling does subside. So it must be a minor air leak me thinks.
Mine does have the airtube removed, but its been fine for almost 3 weeks. And did have a torn o ring upon arrival. Hopefully an o ring overhaul gets it back working well.
Whatever it is, it only acts up as my liquid level goes down. Started at the exact same time tonight as last night.
With the air tube removed you can expect occasional gurgling as there nothing to stop the occasional drop from getting in there.
My solution for clearing it while maybe crude sounding is to hold TGT upside down and blow gently into the air hole..... or wrap it in a paper towel and "sling" it out the top.
Or just hold it upside down occasionally on a napkin or such.
My solution for clearing it while maybe crude sounding is to hold TGT upside down and blow gently into the air hole..... or wrap it in a paper towel and "sling" it out the top.
Or just hold it upside down occasionally on a napkin or such.
Right, as your liquid level goes down, so does the pressure. Eventually, a loss of the pressure seal and leaking. Keep these tanks at least half way full.
I do the same thing, though I haven't removed my tube. Fill tank, invert over napkin, blow through hole, drip out drip tip, straighten tank, recreate pressure seal, vape like new. Generally, if I don't change my wick (KGD) every 24 hours or so, I will get some flooding within the next 24 hours. I will either fix it as mentioned, or rewick. If I start flooding earlier than this, then I know my wick is "off," particularly after checking the chamber top and bottom visually. After all, what else could it be? Ciao!
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If no one has mentioned how to stop the leaking, I put a strip of cotton since that is what I use for my wick over the top of the setup before screwing the top back on the Taifun. If you need a video I can find one that explains it better than mine!
I did an o ringectomy last night. However, I don't have the right size for the little one on the stem of the top cap. I think its 4 x 1 and I have 4 x 2.
4 x 1 mm is correct for the end of the chimney stem into the chamber cap.
These ( 4 x 1 mm ) I have just a few of but here's where I get them:
Metric Buna Orings 4 x 1mm Price for 100 pcs - Orings and More
About $6 with shipping, it's a good idea to order other sizes one might need at the same time. (hind sight)
And the o-ring sizes re-posted:
2x1mm (adjustable plus pole)510 screw
12x1 mm (Base under the sliding tube)
11x1 mm (after serial no. 1500 we put this o-ring under the sleeve ) most clones take this size also.
12x1mm (chamber cap)
4x1 mm (sealing/ airtube-chamber cap)
17x1,5 mm (sealing / combotank- base- top-cap
5x1,5mm (Drip Tip)
Metric Buna Orings 4 x 1mm Price for 100 pcs - Orings and More
About $6 with shipping, it's a good idea to order other sizes one might need at the same time. (hind sight)
And the o-ring sizes re-posted:
2x1mm (adjustable plus pole)510 screw
12x1 mm (Base under the sliding tube)
11x1 mm (after serial no. 1500 we put this o-ring under the sleeve ) most clones take this size also.
12x1mm (chamber cap)
4x1 mm (sealing/ airtube-chamber cap)
17x1,5 mm (sealing / combotank- base- top-cap
5x1,5mm (Drip Tip)
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Yeah, I don't know why I got 4 x 2s. Either that was what I saw listed for the authentic, I made a mistake ordering or they shipped me the wrong size. ??
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