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Both of my Taifuns have had Oring ectomy's (thanks Daniel) and are now rocking wicks that are folded and tucked under and no leaking for two whole days. Yay!
I don't know what the green flame is. Guessing e liquid? What do you vape?
I rinse my base and coil, then dry burn.
I dry burned it several times, maybe 5, and then the coil (w/o wick) had a greenish halo hovering over it. I stopped firing, but the flame remained. I blew it out. Kinda weird, but it seems fine.
Lol! I dont know, but maybe that's why they named their company Halo!
I just got a Taifun GT from angelcigs yesterday and it's an Ivogo version. I pulled out the center airflow pin and the plastic bushing (plastic was a PITA). I'm getting ready to drill out the airflow intake and was wondering if I needed to remove the 510 screw before I start drilling? I'm also wondering if I should dremmel out the side slots as well, seeing as the Ivogo version is the "skinny slotted" version? And last question, do I need to pull out the positive or negative screw out before I start drilling as well?
Def Dremel the slots wider. Those things are horrid. After dwcraig helped me out with that, mine vapes like a dream
My Taifuns are home only vapes! I've tried to take then with me 5-6 times and they flood like a .....! But sitting at home, never a problem!
I changed the air tube on my original TGT and its a little better. Thought I'd see how it was without the tube and insulator and it didn't make a difference because the base where the air tube sits isn't any bigger than the 1.5 tube. It restricted at the bottom! So I put it all back in. The insulator on the air tube comes out really easy with a small screw. I used a narrow, long screw and just caught the edge of the insulator enough and it pulled right out. Didn't hurt it at all. A small pair of needle nose pliers pulled the air tube out without hurting it either. There both back in now and working like before.
I'll pull the tube and insulator out of my Hcigar and see if it's the same next time I rebuild it.
Oh, is that what your talking about drilling out? I thought you were talking about the outside air hole!
I changed the air tube on my original TGT and its a little better. Thought I'd see how it was without the tube and insulator and it didn't make a difference because the base where the air tube sits isn't any bigger than the 1.5 tube. It restricted at the bottom! So I put it all back in. The insulator on the air tube comes out really easy with a small screw. I used a narrow, long screw and just caught the edge of the insulator enough and it pulled right out. Didn't hurt it at all. A small pair of needle nose pliers pulled the air tube out without hurting it either. There both back in now and working like before.
I'll pull the tube and insulator out of my Hcigar and see if it's the same next time I rebuild it.
Oh, is that what your talking about drilling out? I thought you were talking about the outside air hole!
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I take my GT's with me everywhere, including on airplanes. No leaking. If the O-rings are set right (top and bottom of chimney chamber and cap), then flooding can really only occur with incorrectly sized wicks in the slots. There is a Goldilocks zone for slot wick size. Too much, bad draw, dry hits, burnt hits. Too little, flooding. My wicks are changed every 24-48 hours, and I will get flooding if I wait too long to change them out. To make it easy I keep at least five spare GT's, coiled and wicked, and ready to go at all times. I'll wet the wicks, fill the tanks, carefully (and quickly) allow the wicks to saturate, some primer puffs, etc., and then.......Perfect vapes, every time. I use KGD, and I do recall that I had a lot more flooding issues with regular cotton, and more frequently. Getting those KGD wicks sized just perfectly took a while, but almost never do I have flooding issues any more. When I do, it's almost always an o-ring, or "old" wick issue.
I take my GT's with me everywhere, including on airplanes. No leaking. If the O-rings are set right (top and bottom of chimney chamber and cap), then flooding can really only occur with incorrectly sized wicks in the slots. There is a Goldilocks zone for slot wick size. Too much, bad draw, dry hits, burnt hits. Too little, flooding. My wicks are changed every 24-48 hours, and I will get flooding if I wait too long to change them out. To make it easy I keep at least five spare GT's, coiled and wicked, and ready to go at all times. I'll wet the wicks, fill the tanks, carefully (and quickly) allow the wicks to saturate, some primer puffs, etc., and then.......Perfect vapes, every time. I use KGD, and I do recall that I had a lot more flooding issues with regular cotton, and more frequently. Getting those KGD wicks sized just perfectly took a while, but almost never do I have flooding issues any more. When I do, it's almost always an o-ring, or "old" wick issue.
Thanks Bill! I think I have the wick size pretty good. The original seems to have good o rings. They seem tight enough. I'll try it with a new wick. I have noticed that they need changing more often than the KFLs. I saw a post with all the o-ring sizes and I'll pick up some fresh ones. I know the Hcigar needs better ones anyway!
Good info as always my friend!
There seem to be several clone varieties out there. I'm only familiar with the one I own, and I don't know who made it. Soon the AFC version that was recently added to Fasttech will be joining the family. I think I will soon have 5 like Bill.
This is probably not terribly helpful since I can't confirm which clone I have, but on mine the orings seem fine so far. No replacement needed at this point. The airflow was not good for me though, so I also watched the Cloud 50 video and decided yank that center airflow tube with a pair of needle nose pliers. The insulator/bushing was also a total PITA for me, and there are still some remnants in there that I can't seem to get out. The diameter on my external airflow hole is larger than 1.5mm, but smaller than 2mm. This has been working well for me, so I didn't need to do any drilling.
The side slots are also sized nicely on mine. I don't have any issues with wicking unless I do a lousy job sizing the wick.
Side note - I had been building my GT coils on a 2.4mm screwdriver with 26 gauge as my standard, but I accidentally built the last one on a 2mm that I use for protank coils. At first I couldn't figure out why my normal wick size was giving me a hard time. lol. I found though that the 2mm coil has been working really well! On the 2.4mm coil I was getting a little too much juice flow through the coil even when I thought the wick was just right. Pops and some excess liquid in the chamber would occur from time to time. With the 2mm coil it has been vaping super sweet. I may stick with this going forward.
Ok - ranted plenty here. Vape on folks.
There seem to be several clone varieties out there. I'm only familiar with the one I own, and I don't know who made it. Soon the AFC version that was recently added to Fasttech will be joining the family. I think I will soon have 5 like Bill.
This is probably not terribly helpful since I can't confirm which clone I have, but on mine the orings seem fine so far. No replacement needed at this point. The airflow was not good for me though, so I also watched the Cloud 50 video and decided yank that center airflow tube with a pair of needle nose pliers. The insulator/bushing was also a total PITA for me, and there are still some remnants in there that I can't seem to get out. The diameter on my external airflow hole is larger than 1.5mm, but smaller than 2mm. This has been working well for me, so I didn't need to do any drilling.
The side slots are also sized nicely on mine. I don't have any issues with wicking unless I do a lousy job sizing the wick.
Side note - I had been building my GT coils on a 2.4mm screwdriver with 26 gauge as my standard, but I accidentally built the last one on a 2mm that I use for protank coils. At first I couldn't figure out why my normal wick size was giving me a hard time. lol. I found though that the 2mm coil has been working really well! On the 2.4mm coil I was getting a little too much juice flow through the coil even when I thought the wick was just right. Pops and some excess liquid in the chamber would occur from time to time. With the 2mm coil it has been vaping super sweet. I may stick with this going forward.
Ok - ranted plenty here. Vape on folks.
You may find that smaller IS better. The micro coil discussion that has been going on for more than two years, I believe, gives some pretty great explanations of why true micro coils (.045 -.055") create the phenomenon known as "The Effect." This effect produces a wonderful vape. I used to use 5/64" mandrels and when I switched to 1/16" mandrels, my vape has never been better, for many of the same reasons that you express above.
I ordered some o-ring sets from Smoker Store. My Hcigar needs them and the original could probably benefit from a new set. Got to thinking that it might have been sitting a wile assembled in the box and maybe the o-rings might be suffering from that compression for a wile. We'll see when the new ones get here. I'll keep the ones that are on there now for back up after I clean them well.
I did drill out the exterior air hole on my original Taifun GT to 5/32. It's almost as big as my Hcigars. Closest sharp bit I had. It does seem to help the air flow some! And it went easy. Flushed with Vodka and vaping good. Might try inner hole at a later date.
I did drill out the exterior air hole on my original Taifun GT to 5/32. It's almost as big as my Hcigars. Closest sharp bit I had. It does seem to help the air flow some! And it went easy. Flushed with Vodka and vaping good. Might try inner hole at a later date.
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Did you remove the 510 screw before you drilled? And did you remove any of the positive/negative screws before you drilled as well?
Not for drilling the outside hole! Might for the one under the air tube when I get to it. I read it is not good to remove both pos and neg screws at the same time because the disc inside will move and make it hard the get the screws back in!
I used an electric screw driver with a chuck to drill. It runs a lot slower than my hand drill and is easier to handle.
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So my wicking is not right after all. Whoever said it is a fine art (Bill) said a mouthful. The tucking method I used for a couple days started to result in dry/burnt hits..too much wick? Back to the drawing board.
Dry burnt usually means too much wick in the slots. It plugs them up so not enough juice gets through. Flooding/gurgling is usually not enough wick in the slots so juice is sneaking through. I use a 3/32" coil (2.4mm) with rayon. It seems to work out fine.
I sometimes get burnt hits when my coil goes bad. I don't know what I do but my kayfuns, russians and taifuns will sometimes get a very hot turn on one end of the coil. It is like a hot leg but it can't be massaged out. This doesn't happen until I have used it for 15ml or so. I think that I'm just not careful enough and get a small kink in one end of the coil. One loop glows red hot and no wattage adjusting will make it taste good. The resistance of the coil also goes up. When this happens, I know it is time to build a new coil.
I sometimes get burnt hits when my coil goes bad. I don't know what I do but my kayfuns, russians and taifuns will sometimes get a very hot turn on one end of the coil. It is like a hot leg but it can't be massaged out. This doesn't happen until I have used it for 15ml or so. I think that I'm just not careful enough and get a small kink in one end of the coil. One loop glows red hot and no wattage adjusting will make it taste good. The resistance of the coil also goes up. When this happens, I know it is time to build a new coil.
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