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Well because of a post on FT in discussions for this SKU I disassemble mine and checked just what glass liners that I have will fit. All of mine are of the thicker wall variety except one Hotcig TGT II S one that I had extra. Measured with caliper it was 30.10 mm and the one that came in the TGT III (Styled) was 30.15 mm, the Hotcig liner fit just fine and I left it in there as it is not frosted and I can see the juice flow hole better as well as the lower o-ring on the chimney (which I can't see).
Here's a link to the post, I'm not going to even bother posting over there...LOL
Not recommended.: FastTech Forums
Here's a link to the post, I'm not going to even bother posting over there...LOL
Not recommended.: FastTech Forums
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I have this same issue and it drives me nuts I'm going to try your fix so thanks for that !Still luv'n my TGT III clone but have discovered another problem. I thought I'd fix it first and then blab.
When unscrewing the top cap the cap wants to turn the chimney which opens the juice flow.
There are two o-rings on the top of the chimney tube, one seals the chimney to the tank and the other seals the top cap to the chimney. My fix was to install a ever so slightly larger o-ring at the lower spot making the chimney just a fuzz harder to turn.
Also what reducer is everyone using ? I can throttle the air down for a fairly loose mtl draw but as we all know restricting air is not the only element to a MTL Atty. The chimney and deck air hole I feel are even more essential then just dialing down the air. Having the right size restrictor would be huge for this RTA
I am (was) having another occasional problem, I think I got all the bugs out now.
When unscrewing the "fill"cap sometimes it would unscrew the tank top with it resulting in juice every where if unnoticed.
What I did was to put a larger o-ring on the piece that seals against the top of the glass. It had a good feel to it when tightening. The one that I removed was a 16 x 1 mm and I put on a 17 x 1 mm.
The fill cap also has a 16 x 1 mm and if I had some 15 x 1 mm I would have changed that one too.
Below is a list of the o-ring sizes for an authentic TGT III, I will get a list for the clones in my blog soon I hope, I'm waiting on a couple more from different manufacturers.
The O-ring sizes used for the Authentic Taifun GT III.
5 x 1.5 mm (drip tip, upper part of chimney (2))
17 x 1 mm (AFC ring)
15 x 1 mm (top cap, winding deck)
20 x 1 mm (glass insert at the bottom)
19 x 1 mm (glass top cover)
EDIT:
With the exception of adding perhaps a slightly larger o-ring at the chimney's top (the lower one) these sizes also fit the clone that I have. I changed every one except the one under the AFC ring, pretty sure they put a 16 x 1 on there.
When unscrewing the "fill"cap sometimes it would unscrew the tank top with it resulting in juice every where if unnoticed.
What I did was to put a larger o-ring on the piece that seals against the top of the glass. It had a good feel to it when tightening. The one that I removed was a 16 x 1 mm and I put on a 17 x 1 mm.
The fill cap also has a 16 x 1 mm and if I had some 15 x 1 mm I would have changed that one too.
Below is a list of the o-ring sizes for an authentic TGT III, I will get a list for the clones in my blog soon I hope, I'm waiting on a couple more from different manufacturers.
The O-ring sizes used for the Authentic Taifun GT III.
5 x 1.5 mm (drip tip, upper part of chimney (2))
17 x 1 mm (AFC ring)
15 x 1 mm (top cap, winding deck)
20 x 1 mm (glass insert at the bottom)
19 x 1 mm (glass top cover)
EDIT:
With the exception of adding perhaps a slightly larger o-ring at the chimney's top (the lower one) these sizes also fit the clone that I have. I changed every one except the one under the AFC ring, pretty sure they put a 16 x 1 on there.
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I have a pretty good selection of o-rings but there's always some that I need so I placed another order with Oringsandmore. 5.1 x 1.6, 15 x 1 and because I think I'll need them for something 18 x 1 mm
So by my calculations I have 17 glass tank liners (thick walled) for TGT II, ect. that I have no use for.
我很厭倦這種“永遠在尋找合適的O型圈”的遊戲
Wǒ hěn yànjuàn zhè zhǒng “yǒngyuǎn zài xúnzhǎo héshì de O xíng quān” de yóuxì
(Translated to Chinese, they need to know that) LOL
Unfortunately I'm still working on it, thought I had it but not quite yet. I'm going to search through those little bags that come with the atties to see if I have a 15 x 1
Edit: I found what I was looking for. I shall wait and see before claiming success this time. LOL
Edit: I found what I was looking for. I shall wait and see before claiming success this time. LOL
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dwcraig1, did your 3F GT3 come in yet? I have the fast tech one, 304 stainless one, and not too impressed with the build quality of the actual tank. Vapes fine, getting some jumping ohms and temp isn't consistent, but other than that it Vapes fine.
I'm hoping the 3F ones are built better. I'm tossed up between ordering those or the Shenrays from Focal for my next GT3's
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I'm hoping the 3F ones are built better. I'm tossed up between ordering those or the Shenrays from Focal for my next GT3's
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The ShenRay GT3 is out of stock at Focal. Next month, they tell me, so I replaced the ShenRay with another GT3 rather than waiting. Looks like a pretty simple and easy to clone design.
If I didn't have two others on the way I'd probably go for this one.
$20.83 GT III Styled RTA Rebuildable Tank Atomizer - 304 stainless steel + glass / 5ml at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
I originally passed on it because it said it came with a PC tank liner, now it says "glass" and comes with an extra one.
$20.83 GT III Styled RTA Rebuildable Tank Atomizer - 304 stainless steel + glass / 5ml at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping
I originally passed on it because it said it came with a PC tank liner, now it says "glass" and comes with an extra one.
Lol I know right? Couldn't get a air clone for nothing, now the III is everywhere lol
I think I'm going to stay away from anything 304 right now. This clone I'm using now was one of the first fast tech ones with the black zipper pouch thing, and my first experience with anything built out of 304 and I've been having nothing but trouble with it as far as temp control. Using a custom dna200 (with the evolv 510) and a hcigar DNA 75. Building about half ohm coils with stainless 28ga 316-- the same coils I have in everything else I use.....
Is anybody else having temp issues?
I can see no way that there would be any problems related to it being made from 304.
Where/what I would be taking a look at would be the threads of the positive and negative post screws as well as the threads in the holes that they screw into. Mine had some real nasty greasy looking stuff on the end of the positive screw. Also same for 510 screw and make sure it's tight.
Man this thing was dirty! The sleeves that hold the screws in place had so much gunk, honestly it looked like they put oil in there too lubricate the screws. I was obviously a little too excited when I got this tank and didn't clean it properly. Just my usual hot water swishing around in a paper cup. This tank is gonna need some soap and an ultrasonic I think.
Made the resistance stop jumping. Now my issue is wicking I think, but that comes with practice. Only the third time I've built on it. First was flawless, second was gurgly, now my third and current I think I have to much cotton. I'm hitting temp protect at 490 degrees and 16 watts. I don't think that should be happening.
Either way, thanks for the advice. Great tank so far, draw is perfect IMO. Just need to get the kinks out so I can build this one with my eyes closed like I can the GT II
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Made the resistance stop jumping. Now my issue is wicking I think, but that comes with practice. Only the third time I've built on it. First was flawless, second was gurgly, now my third and current I think I have to much cotton. I'm hitting temp protect at 490 degrees and 16 watts. I don't think that should be happening.
Either way, thanks for the advice. Great tank so far, draw is perfect IMO. Just need to get the kinks out so I can build this one with my eyes closed like I can the GT II
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