TC Mod Recommendations - Or not?

[jjatl]

Here is my short back story before I ask for recommendations. Hopefully it will provide information relevant to my search.

I have been vaping for a little over 4 months. I had a brief stint using EVOD batteries and the small ego style tanks, but quickly purchased a Subox Mini kit. I immediately fell in love with the KBOX mini and the Subtank mini, but I was burning through coils every few days. I started rebuilding the STM RBA within a couple weeks to save money. Shortly after that, an extremely generous ECF member sent me a Kayfun and Orchid clone to play with. I also purchased a derringer clone.

I vaped on the STM, Orchid and Derringer for about 3 months, and grew tired of the constant rewicking on the tanks. I did have to rewick the Derringer at the same frequency as the tanks but rewicking an RDA is so much easier than rewicking and shaping the wick on an RTA and making sure it doesn't flood. So I purchased a few more RDA clones – Stumpy, Snapdragon, and a NarDA that is on its way from China. So far, I love my RDAs. I do use my tanks in the car and at home though.​

Currently, I vape in between 14-26w and around 5-7ml/day. I rebuild to save money and I feel that the quality of my vape is more consistent and enjoyable, but I do not enjoy the process of rebuilding.

With all of that said, I am looking to purchase a new mod or 2, and I am not sure which direction to go.

Mod 1 – I would like a dual 18650 mod for longer battery life. Aesthetics are not very important to me, and neither is portability. I work at a desk all day and this mod does not need to fit in my pocket.

Mod 2 – I love the form factor of my Kbox Mini and something similar would be great.​

If those were my only requirements, my options would be endless, but I am hoping that I can find a mod in both form factors to use in TC mode, and here is where the confusion sets in.

I do get a dry hit every now and again from my Orchid, which is infuriating, but I have shelved that tank for now. I have stopped buying RTAs because there is such a fine line between flooding and getting dry hits. Again, I don't want to spend the time fiddling to find the perfect wicking method for every tank or juice ratio. My understanding is that a properly setup TC mod would fix this. If my wicking wasn't quite quick enough to how fast I was vaping, it just wouldn't fire.

My understanding is that currently, the DNA 200 chip is the pinnacle for TC. The settings are extremely customizable and they work best for people willing to tinker. The quality is great and the vape is great once dialed in. Is that correct? It takes some time to set them up and there is fiddling involved to get a good vape from them? If that is correct, I do not believe that a DNA 200 mod would be right for me. Just like rebuilding which I consider a necessary evil, I am not looking for something that requires more fiddling. I am just looking for something that works.

On to Non – dna 200 mods. Are there Non - dna devices out there that perform well and reliably with TC? It seems from my research that all of the other mods are trying to perform as well as the DNA 200, but do not. Is there is no such thing as a TC mod that requires no fiddling for TC to operate properly?

Are there mods out there that perform the way I am hoping? Completely prevent dry hits without spending time to optimize or tinker with them? Or is TC just too much in its infancy, and I should hold out until the next wave of chips are released? I do not need new mods now.

I do love vaping, and if I am able to completely eliminate my occasional dry hit, that would be fantastic. I would also like to be able to use more RTAs without the fear of over-wicking and getting hammered with a dry hit.

Sorry for the rambling post or if I at any time appeared to by whining.

 

[TheotherSteveS]

A lot will depedn on your price range. I have, or have tried, virtually every one of the major TC chips around with the exception of the newest sx Q-class chip. For me, the best remains the dicodes TC chip but the mods are not cheap. The new Dicodes 6 is a 25560 so plenty of mAh's and a solid and quite compact device. You might also look at the boxer sx350-V2 26650. The sx chips are fantsatic also!

 

[BlueridgeDog]

I and those I have helped use a DNA200 and an aromamizer atomizer. Easy build, have gone a month without re-wicking, zero leaks (as long as you keep it upright, but if you intend to lay it on its side, build becomes critical). Same vape start to finish, one 900mah pack lasts me a day (12ml) no dry hits and lots of flavor.

The user configuration of the DNA200 puts it ahead of all others (IMHO). You can adjust pre-heat wattage, ramp up style, max watts and max temp.

 

[OlderNDirt]

Had you not mentioned sitting at a desk all day, I probably would not have responded. But since you did:

I do not build coils and am fairly new to temp control as well as spend most of my time at the desk in front of my computer. The mod that is working very well for me is the Lavabox DNA200. I thought I would always stick with a mod that uses 18650 batteries since I already have 3, but since it has a replaceable "internal" battery and I would likely not take it out very often, figured I'd give it a go. I started using it by plugging it into a computer usb when the battery ran low, but now have an power outlet close enough to plug it in and vape away while it is charging. I see they now have a higher mah battery pack available if the original battery life comes up short of what you would like. For me, I love the look and feel of the Lavabox and for my normal, everyday use, battery life is not a problem. However, battery life may come up a little short for that, but as I said, I have other mods that I take as backups anyway.

As far as temp control, I can only offer my limited experience. I picked up an IPV D2 first to try temp control due to the considerably cheaper price. I almost quit on temp control, but was intrigued enough to give it a better go. After using the Lavabox, the D2 only gets used in power mode when I want something smaller and more discrete. While uses I've had are limited, one of the first was using a TFV4 with the TF-Ti titanium coil and I am really liking that, so much so that I keep one tank filled with that flavor at all times. A sub mini with ni200 coils seems to work pretty nice, but am taking time trying that with several different flavors. When I take either of those and put them on the D2, I just can't seem to get the same quality vape at the same or different settings.

So hope some of that information may help a bit. Wanted to point out that I do believe the quality of a mod can make a difference. As for tinkering, there is all you could want in the Lavabox. But sounds like you are like me, just want a great vape without having to work for it. Although I haven't gotten into all the intricacies the Lavabox and escribe provides, it is there to try if one wants to at some point. And it still works just fine when I run a tank I like at 28Ω in power mode.

Good luck and hope there was something useful in all of that.

 

[jjatl]

Thanks for the responses!

For me, the best remains the dicodes TC chip but the mods are not cheap. The new Dicodes 6 is a 25560 so plenty of mAh's and a solid and quite compact device.

Thanks for the recommendation. It appears that this is not a mass produced box, and is unavailable everywhere. Or am I looking in the wrong places?

The sx chips are fantsatic also!

How would you rate the sx chips compared to the dna 200 in terms of accuracy and ease of use?

The user configuration of the DNA200 puts it ahead of all others (IMHO). You can adjust pre-heat wattage, ramp up style, max watts and max temp.

And while some may view that level of configuration a plus, to me it sounds like unnecessary complications. Or am I confused? Would I be able to throw a SS 316 coil in any of my Attys and have it just work?

As for tinkering, there is all you could want in the Lavabox. But sounds like you are like me, just want a great vape without having to work for it.

That is mostly correct. I do not mind some fiddling as I do build my own coils, but I when I do purchase a mod for TC, I am hoping to find one that just works.

Any responses to my main dilemma?

Are there mods out there that perform the way I am hoping? Completely prevent dry hits without spending time to optimize or tinker with them? Or is TC just too much in its infancy, and I should hold out until the next wave of chips are released? I do not need new mods now.​

 

[GeorgeS]

There are many mods which represent most - if not all the popular/top chipsets but all come with some disclaimers:

• some tanks are unreliable in TC because of static (or not so static!) resistance of the tank itself or a springged connection to the 510 center pin
• no all SS is created equal, you have to match the TCR of the wire your using (Ti grade1 and Ni200 are usually safe bets)
• while twisted and contact coils can be done with SS and NiFe, its not a simple "build and vape" process. Many of the wire types need to build up a oxide layer to electrically insulate the windings so there are not hot spots or shorts

Because of the above many of us will

• check the resistance and 'dry fire' (short pulses) the coil while mounted to the mod to check for even center-to-outside heating of the coil
• check all leg connections ensuring that they are tight and secure
• when using a new wire type ether a 'water test' or 'burned cotton test' might be performed to ensure that the TCR chosen is correct for the wire type

While I often use contact coils I've personally never had any luck with twisted TC wire. (others exclusively use twisted wire) A simple spaced 6 to 10 wrap coil is best to start off with and get right before moving into experimenting with more exotic builds.

Keeping the above in mind TC vaping can be fairly simple and easy. When I get a new mod I'll dive into whatever menu system it has and set it up for my use, attach a tank and read/lock the resistance and vape away. The last example (last two weeks) took a whole whooping 15min before I was happily vaping away. (charging the battery took much much longer)

 

[BlueridgeDog]

And while some may view that level of configuration a plus, to me it sounds like unnecessary complications. Or am I confused? Would I be able to throw a SS 316 coil in any of my Attys and have it just work?

No. The technology to sense the type of wire you are using is non-existent. If you had one of your eight profiles setup for SS316 and switched to that profile, then yes, it would be simple. The board comes with a SS metal type, so you would need to do about 7 clicks to get there. Only you know if that is too much fussing.

 

[jjatl]

There are many mods which represent most - if not all the popular/top chipsets but all come with some disclaimers:

• some tanks are unreliable in TC because of static (or not so static!) resistance of the tank itself or a springged connection to the 510 center pin
• no all SS is created equal, you have to match the TCR of the wire your using (Ti grade1 and Ni200 are usually safe bets)
• while twisted and contact coils can be done with SS and NiFe, its not a simple "build and vape" process. Many of the wire types need to build up a oxide layer to electrically insulate the windings so there are not hot spots or shorts

Because of the above many of us will

• check the resistance and 'dry fire' (short pulses) the coil while mounted to the mod to check for even center-to-outside heating of the coil
• check all leg connections ensuring that they are tight and secure
• when using a new wire type ether a 'water test' or 'burned cotton test' might be performed to ensure that the TCR chosen is correct for the wire type

While I often use contact coils I've personally never had any luck with twisted TC wire. (others exclusively use twisted wire) A simple spaced 6 to 10 wrap coil is best to start off with and get right before moving into experimenting with more exotic builds.

Keeping the above in mind TC vaping can be fairly simple and easy. When I get a new mod I'll dive into whatever menu system it has and set it up for my use, attach a tank and read/lock the resistance and vape away. The last example (last two weeks) took a whole whooping 15min before I was happily vaping away. (charging the battery took much much longer)

That is what I was wondering! I am prone to analysis paralysis, and in my attempts to find the mod that would be perfect for me, I have done tons of reading. That reading has all led me to believe that TC, in general, is not plug and play like VW vaping is. That it does require fiddling with it to get it to work successfully.

What I am trying to figure out is, is it constant fiddling or is it the 15min to get it setup and then you are off to the races. Are there some mods that are easier to setup but functionally still work as good as others? Does a person really need the level of customization that the DNA offers to have a great vape?

On wednesday I had my first puff on a TC mod. It is the sampling setup at my local B&M. It is an eleaf setup and the mod said 550 degrees. When I puffed on it, the ramp up time was quite long and then it got really hot, and then cooled down and stabilized. It exhibited the exact same behavior on all of the sample tanks. Is that a typical experience on an inexpensive TC mod? If so, that does not interest me at all.

 

[BlueridgeDog]

Is that a typical experience on an inexpensive TC mod? If so, that does not interest me at all.

No. The DNA200 has a configurable ramp up and anyone vaping at 550 is nuts in my book. 490'ish is the top end to avoid the production of bad chemicals.

 

[jjatl]

No. The technology to sense the type of wire you are using is non-existent. If you had one of your eight profiles setup for SS316 and switched to that profile, then yes, it would be simple. The board comes with a SS metal type, so you would need to do about 7 clicks to get there. Only you know if that is too much fussing.

I wasn't suggesting that the mod should recognize the wire type. I was trying to ask, if someone selected ss 316, would it just work, or is there much more to it that that. The post just before your suggests that there is a bit more to it than that, but maybe it isn't as bad as I had thought.

 

[GeorgeS]

What I am trying to figure out is, is it constant fiddling or is it the 15min to get it setup and then you are off to the races. Are there some mods that are easier to setup but functionally still work as good as others? Does a person really need the level of customization that the DNA offers to have a great vape?

I guess it all depends on what you start out with. I started with Kanger Subtank-Mini's and the included RBA. 1st with Ni200 and now with Ti, SS430 and Nife. 8-10 spaced wraps (or contact) on 2.5MM, power with 20-40W and anything from 100/0-50/50 (VG/PG) and it works fine.

I'll mention here that after the "learning curve" of getting a build working in TC mode its fairly "plug and play". Yes it can be much different and less (or more) forgiving than Kanthal.

Once up and running I'll only have to rewick every once in a while (+2 weeks) and when I have the wick removed - dry burn the coil to remove all the gunk. Yesterday I switched a build from Ti01 to Resistherm wire and reused the same wick! (I use Silika rope, lasts forever)

Most of the RTA's I use these days are now top or side fill. I've had good luck with Lemo2's and TFV4's. (I can see 3 TFV4's mounted from where I'm sitting and I just installed a Lemo2 on a new Boxer 350JV2 a few minutes ago.

 

[edyle]

I wasn't suggesting that the mod should recognize the wire type. I was trying to ask, if someone selected ss 316, would it just work, or is there much more to it that that. The post just before your suggests that there is a bit more to it than that, but maybe it isn't as bad as I had thought.

there is the ijoy asolo and ijoy solo mini to consider.
$50.00 Authentic IJOY Solo Mini 75W TC VW Variable Wattage APV Box Mod - 5-75W / 1*18650 / zinc alloy at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

 

[RedheadedBStarD]

Why not go for the Kanger kbox 120, or 200? You already like the kbox mini and the 120/200 is essentially the same mod with temp control, a better screen, and dual 18650.

 

[jjatl]

Why not go for the Kanger kbox 120, or 200? You already like the kbox mini and the 120/200 is essentially the same mod with temp control, a better screen, and dual 18650.

Thanks for the suggestion. I do love my kbox mini and my STMs, and that was my initial idea. I was almost ready to pull the trigger on one, but I heard that their TC control is horrible. Whether that is true or not, the response here at ECF and other forums to the Kbox 200 has been abysmal. I have seen all sorts of reviews complaining about locking resistance and other TC related issue.