I just answered your email Nurz. I'm waiting on a price for the switch if you want to replace it yourself and not send your BP in for the repair.
Tech support AREA ! POST HERE FOR TECH SUPPORT PLEASE !!!
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Thanks, got your email. I don't know if I screwed up the previous email, but thank you for your prompt response. This device is awesome, but super glue only goes so far. lol.
Sometimes I reply to an email and it gets sent back to me if someone's box if full, or it their spam filter doesn't like it. And I would certainly not discount the fact that I just plain missed it 
When you use the "contact us" from the sales site, it sends it as a email to notcigs@gmail.com
When you use the "contact us" from the sales site, it sends it as a email to notcigs@gmail.com
So, tidegirl is having technical difficulties again. Now that you have had 1/10th of a second to recover from the shock 
, things are not wanting to fit my ∞ pro top. Things have never wanted to go on it perfectly straight, there was always a little lean and a little wobble to whatever I had screwed in. My split-fire and vivi novas fit like this when I got them, but now they don't want to go on it at all. If I work hard enough to get it misthreaded it will catch and sort of hold, but it won't hold for long. Now even my Phoenix clearos are not wanting to fit properly.
When the problem began it was with the split-fire. I stopped by a local vape shop and he gave me a 510-510 adapter. (Nice guy!) That fixed the problem at first, but now the adapter won't screw on. All these things still fit an ego perfectly.
So what is going on here? Do I need a new top cap?
, things are not wanting to fit my ∞ pro top. Things have never wanted to go on it perfectly straight, there was always a little lean and a little wobble to whatever I had screwed in. My split-fire and vivi novas fit like this when I got them, but now they don't want to go on it at all. If I work hard enough to get it misthreaded it will catch and sort of hold, but it won't hold for long. Now even my Phoenix clearos are not wanting to fit properly. When the problem began it was with the split-fire. I stopped by a local vape shop and he gave me a 510-510 adapter. (Nice guy!) That fixed the problem at first, but now the adapter won't screw on. All these things still fit an ego perfectly.
So what is going on here? Do I need a new top cap?
Yep, sounds like you need a new top cap. The threads are probably stripped 
You can order them on the sales site, and the walk thru for changing the Buzz top cap would be the same steps for the IPro. You'll find the walk thru in the stickie threads. Bless your heart Tide...if it ain't 1 thing, it's another!
You can order them on the sales site, and the walk thru for changing the Buzz top cap would be the same steps for the IPro. You'll find the walk thru in the stickie threads. Bless your heart Tide...if it ain't 1 thing, it's another!
Replacing a top cap: So easy a caveman can do it... but not a blonde. Pause for the entertainment portion of the post.
I am having a little trouble with the new top cap. It's working, but the more I tighten it the more it pulls the button into the mod. If I tighten it all the way, the button can't be pushed at all. As I am typing this I am thinking- maybe I tightened the screw that holds the wire to the top cap too much? Is that supposed to be loose? Any other ideas? I had some trouble putting it together initially. Trying to line up the threads to screw the new top cap on I managed to get the top screw unscrewed, and the screw fell into my hand along with the oring and washer. I had to take the old cap apart to see how to put that back together. I was just glad the stuff fell in my hand and not in the floor. Those things are tiny!
On the positive side, the threads are fantastic on the new cap. My Vivi Nova is nice and straight and secure on my I pro. No wiggle or wobble at all. The old one must have been a little off in the machining, so this one should last longer.
I'm a smart blonde, just a mechanically challenged blonde.
I am having a little trouble with the new top cap. It's working, but the more I tighten it the more it pulls the button into the mod. If I tighten it all the way, the button can't be pushed at all. As I am typing this I am thinking- maybe I tightened the screw that holds the wire to the top cap too much? Is that supposed to be loose? Any other ideas? I had some trouble putting it together initially. Trying to line up the threads to screw the new top cap on I managed to get the top screw unscrewed, and the screw fell into my hand along with the oring and washer. I had to take the old cap apart to see how to put that back together. I was just glad the stuff fell in my hand and not in the floor. Those things are tiny!
On the positive side, the threads are fantastic on the new cap. My Vivi Nova is nice and straight and secure on my I pro. No wiggle or wobble at all. The old one must have been a little off in the machining, so this one should last longer.
I'm a smart blonde, just a mechanically challenged blonde.
Tide, that vid was hilarious!! But I seriously doubt you are that blonde
Yep, you most likely tightened the wire screw a bit too tight. Loosen it just until you ring terminal and wire will turn freely when you screw the top cap on. Loosen the outside screw a little, screw the cap back on and then snug the outer screw
Go look at the pictures here http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/notcigs/110719-replacing-top-cap-buzz.html
Yep, you most likely tightened the wire screw a bit too tight. Loosen it just until you ring terminal and wire will turn freely when you screw the top cap on. Loosen the outside screw a little, screw the cap back on and then snug the outer screw
Go look at the pictures here http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/notcigs/110719-replacing-top-cap-buzz.html
After much fiddling I finally got it working right. The button still feels a little tight, but as long as it quits firing when I let go I am leaving it alone for now. I ended up having to raise the center screw just a bit too. I guess that is a small variance from one top cap to another, because the other one never needed that. But I'll take the raise screw with the perfectly fitting clearos any day. Nice to have them not be wiggly.
Now that I have already ordered, I have discovered that my bottom cap is not cutting off unless I take it all the way off.
I haven't used the function lately, but last night while the button was acting up I didn't want to leave it on in case it decided to fire on it's own. The problem appears to be with your much disliked derlin threads. At barely past 1/4 turn, the cap comes off. I'm starting to see why you don't like them. So I guess before long I will need to get an all metal bottom cap, before supplies run out for the I pro.
And no, I'm not that blonde, until you put a screwdriver in my hand!
I ended up having to raise the center screw just a bit too. I guess that is a small variance from one top cap to another, because the other one never needed that. But I'll take the raise screw with the perfectly fitting clearos any day. Nice to have them not be wiggly. Now that I have already ordered, I have discovered that my bottom cap is not cutting off unless I take it all the way off.
I haven't used the function lately, but last night while the button was acting up I didn't want to leave it on in case it decided to fire on it's own. The problem appears to be with your much disliked derlin threads. At barely past 1/4 turn, the cap comes off. I'm starting to see why you don't like them. So I guess before long I will need to get an all metal bottom cap, before supplies run out for the I pro.And no, I'm not that blonde, until you put a screwdriver in my hand!
My original Infinity has performed flawlessly for 2+ years and it has been used every single day. Today, I experienced my first problem with it and maybe she's getting too old? This is what's happening:
The blue light comes on when I press the button without any carto attached, but as soon as I screw on a carto the blue light comes on & then immediately goes off and the cartos won't fire.
Checked batteries with volt meter - they're fine. Checked voltage of Infinity with voltage adapter I purchased from Notcigs and the various voltage levels test just fine. This is a 901/808 top and requires an adapter. I've tried different adapters - 901 to 808, 901 to 510; and I've tried various cartos...cartos that work fine on BuzzPro...and adapters also work fine with other units.
So I've ruled out the batteries, adapters & cartos. But no matter what I do, as soon as I try to fire a carto, the Infinity shuts off. I've been quite religious about keeping the top clean, but before I dip the whole top in alcohol is there something else I should try? I have the instructions on how to remove the top cap of the Buzz, but this original Infinity looks to be quite a bit tougher to get the top off & don't want to go there if I don't have to.
The blue light comes on when I press the button without any carto attached, but as soon as I screw on a carto the blue light comes on & then immediately goes off and the cartos won't fire.
Checked batteries with volt meter - they're fine. Checked voltage of Infinity with voltage adapter I purchased from Notcigs and the various voltage levels test just fine. This is a 901/808 top and requires an adapter. I've tried different adapters - 901 to 808, 901 to 510; and I've tried various cartos...cartos that work fine on BuzzPro...and adapters also work fine with other units.
So I've ruled out the batteries, adapters & cartos. But no matter what I do, as soon as I try to fire a carto, the Infinity shuts off. I've been quite religious about keeping the top clean, but before I dip the whole top in alcohol is there something else I should try? I have the instructions on how to remove the top cap of the Buzz, but this original Infinity looks to be quite a bit tougher to get the top off & don't want to go there if I don't have to.
Check the screw in the bottom cap and make sure it's still tight. Also check the screw on the side if it has one. It's been so long since I've seen an original Infinity that I don't remember if it has the side ground screw, but it should be around the same area as the thumb wheel. Sounds like a short in your top cap.
Ok, I'm in business again with my orig. Infinity.
It occurred to me that this happened after I switched out batteries this morning. The batteries I took out were now fully charged so I swapped them out & sure enough it worked again.
So it seems it was the batteries. But so odd...both batteries look just fine & both metered at around 4 volts. So not sure what's going on there.
But this is my favorite PV so I'm glad it's working!!
Thanks Bov for the reply and BTW...no visible ground screw in this model.
It occurred to me that this happened after I switched out batteries this morning. The batteries I took out were now fully charged so I swapped them out & sure enough it worked again.
So it seems it was the batteries. But so odd...both batteries look just fine & both metered at around 4 volts. So not sure what's going on there.
But this is my favorite PV so I'm glad it's working!!
Thanks Bov for the reply and BTW...no visible ground screw in this model.
Sounds like time to replace that set of batts. They should meter around 4.2 when fully charged, I know it doesn't sound like they are very far off, but you'd be surprised
Glad you're back in business!
Glad you're back in business!
Hit adjuster issue.
Hey, it is Christian Apicella, I'm using the forum rather than email because I wondered if anyone else was interested. If you remember, the second day I had my BP it tipped over while sitting on a tile floors and chipped of the red mark. Since then I sheered the button off and you guys fixed it and the adjuster knob super fast. In the note I sent with I asked about a brass hit adjuster knob. That was a little while ago. Just today, it was sitting up on a table and tipped over, not off the table, just plopped over. I had it set to the red setting, but somehow the yellow and green paint marks chipped off. No big deal except the knob is now super hard to adjust. So between these two instances I have chipped all three color ticks off and not damaged any other part of the know, not even cosmetically. This makes me wonder if the paints chemical makeup is making the plastic vulnerable to vibrations. I say vibrations because the parts that chipped the last two times weren't exposed. I think the knob is so hard to turn because a piece of the plastic is stuck somewhere, though I can't see anything. So I have to fix it or have you fix it. My neighbor is a custom jewelry fabricator and sculptor. He is very talented and said that if I got him the part, he would duplicate it in brass. I wondered if there is some way I can get the bare knob if it was somehow detachable so he can make it then send it back to have you guys attach it? Or tell me how to? Otherwise I'll just have to get it fixed again. I'll pay for it since it was my fault, but I would like to prevent this in the future. If I were you, i would be saying, it sounds like you hit it a he'll of a lot harder than just tipping over. I know but seriously it just fell over. I'm also looking for brass screws for to and side. The only reason I'm willing to spend time on money making it perfect and ridding it of plastic is because I think it is the downright best mod. I love it so much more than my several others. Thanks, let me know.
Hey, it is Christian Apicella, I'm using the forum rather than email because I wondered if anyone else was interested. If you remember, the second day I had my BP it tipped over while sitting on a tile floors and chipped of the red mark. Since then I sheered the button off and you guys fixed it and the adjuster knob super fast. In the note I sent with I asked about a brass hit adjuster knob. That was a little while ago. Just today, it was sitting up on a table and tipped over, not off the table, just plopped over. I had it set to the red setting, but somehow the yellow and green paint marks chipped off. No big deal except the knob is now super hard to adjust. So between these two instances I have chipped all three color ticks off and not damaged any other part of the know, not even cosmetically. This makes me wonder if the paints chemical makeup is making the plastic vulnerable to vibrations. I say vibrations because the parts that chipped the last two times weren't exposed. I think the knob is so hard to turn because a piece of the plastic is stuck somewhere, though I can't see anything. So I have to fix it or have you fix it. My neighbor is a custom jewelry fabricator and sculptor. He is very talented and said that if I got him the part, he would duplicate it in brass. I wondered if there is some way I can get the bare knob if it was somehow detachable so he can make it then send it back to have you guys attach it? Or tell me how to? Otherwise I'll just have to get it fixed again. I'll pay for it since it was my fault, but I would like to prevent this in the future. If I were you, i would be saying, it sounds like you hit it a he'll of a lot harder than just tipping over. I know but seriously it just fell over. I'm also looking for brass screws for to and side. The only reason I'm willing to spend time on money making it perfect and ridding it of plastic is because I think it is the downright best mod. I love it so much more than my several others. Thanks, let me know.
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I forgot to say, I posted this on the forum because if I do go through with making a perfect match for the knob in brass as well as the screws and it works out awesome I was wondering if anyone else would want the parts for their own BP? Sorry for typos, I'm on my phone.
Hi Christian I can ask Mike about it, but the thumb dial is built into the PCB. Watch this vid and you'll see Lorrie building a BP, and you'll see as she glues the PCB into place, the dial is attached to the bottom of the board.
I can ask Mike about it, but the thumb dial is built into the PCB. Watch this vid and you'll see Lorrie building a BP, and you'll see as she glues the PCB into place, the dial is attached to the bottom of the board. Hi Christian
I figured, that would be the deal. The wheel seems riveted to whatever it sits on. I didn't know if there was a way to pop that off, or rivet the brass wheel on before the plastic one goes on, but I don't know if you boards are assembled elsewhere or not. My wheel is tight, but a little looser today. I don't know if I should send it in or not. I don't want to ruin the board, but I also don't want to be without my BP. Since it is my main device, I think it may be time to get a second one.
The boards are made by an outside manufacturer, I've never taken one out of a Buzz and looked it over to know whether or not the wheel part could be popped loose. As far as the paint markings go, they wear off easily if you move your dial around a lot. I just use a multi meter and set my BPs at4.5, then use a tooth pick to dab a little craft paint on the wheel to mark it. Or you can use fingernail polish.
We do have the BPs for $79.95 now
We do have the BPs for $79.95 now
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