Tech support AREA ! POST HERE FOR TECH SUPPORT PLEASE !!!
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Salutations and boring stuff in GREY so you don't have to read the pointless rambling part...
Hey everybody! It's been a long time. I used to be somewhat active in this forum, so hello to anyone who knew me. I got lazy a year and a half ago, found stuff I really liked (thanks Buzz), started ordering in year-supply quantities, and quit chatting when I abandoned the experimentation phase.
By the way, congrats to myself, I'm down to less than 1mg (I add .25ml of 100mg to 30ml of 0mg). But I'm not ready to transition to true zero yet, because I need to keep the mental gymnastics of telling myself there is some nic in there. Besides, sub-1mg still feels stronger than a High Strength Blu what with the fog produced by a BP with Ikenvape Fusions on it.
Anyway, here's my deal. I'm a long time Buzz user. When I retired my Buzz Original I bought a Buzz Pro Woody a long time ago whenever they first came out (pictured in my sig
). Plus I bought a back-up BP, just in case you know. But my BP Woody never died so I never actually used the back up. Recently though, even though my old woody is still going strong, it's gotten ugly and the button is squished to almost flush by now, so I switched over to my nice pretty back-up.
Here's my problem. My good old Woody BP never let a juice leak seep into the works. But my Back-Up BP, after the first good leak, it went schizo and started doing that always on thing with plastic burning smell because of the juice that got in it. I opened it up and it turns out that no matter how tight both the top and underside cap screws are, the center post still has plenty of travel, compromising the seal and allowing leaked juice to get inside. To fix my problem (since I'm a committed leaker), after I cleaned it up, I just switched the top caps from my Woody to my Back-Up.
The top cap that came with my Woody, the center post doesn't have any travel when the screws are tight so leaks don't get inside. I have to be more careful with to make sure the wire doesn't get stressed when I screw the top cap back on, but it's worth it to be leak-proof.
But now that my Woody has the leaky top cap on it, I wonder if there is any way to fix that and eliminate the center post travel? Is the travel in there on purpose to protect the wire? Because I'd rather be leak proof(ish), and I still want to use both my BPs from time to time without worry about leaks. Any tips?
Hey everybody! It's been a long time. I used to be somewhat active in this forum, so hello to anyone who knew me. I got lazy a year and a half ago, found stuff I really liked (thanks Buzz), started ordering in year-supply quantities, and quit chatting when I abandoned the experimentation phase.
By the way, congrats to myself, I'm down to less than 1mg (I add .25ml of 100mg to 30ml of 0mg). But I'm not ready to transition to true zero yet, because I need to keep the mental gymnastics of telling myself there is some nic in there. Besides, sub-1mg still feels stronger than a High Strength Blu what with the fog produced by a BP with Ikenvape Fusions on it.
Anyway, here's my deal. I'm a long time Buzz user. When I retired my Buzz Original I bought a Buzz Pro Woody a long time ago whenever they first came out (pictured in my sig
). Plus I bought a back-up BP, just in case you know. But my BP Woody never died so I never actually used the back up. Recently though, even though my old woody is still going strong, it's gotten ugly and the button is squished to almost flush by now, so I switched over to my nice pretty back-up.Here's my problem. My good old Woody BP never let a juice leak seep into the works. But my Back-Up BP, after the first good leak, it went schizo and started doing that always on thing with plastic burning smell because of the juice that got in it. I opened it up and it turns out that no matter how tight both the top and underside cap screws are, the center post still has plenty of travel, compromising the seal and allowing leaked juice to get inside. To fix my problem (since I'm a committed leaker), after I cleaned it up, I just switched the top caps from my Woody to my Back-Up.
The top cap that came with my Woody, the center post doesn't have any travel when the screws are tight so leaks don't get inside. I have to be more careful with to make sure the wire doesn't get stressed when I screw the top cap back on, but it's worth it to be leak-proof.
But now that my Woody has the leaky top cap on it, I wonder if there is any way to fix that and eliminate the center post travel? Is the travel in there on purpose to protect the wire? Because I'd rather be leak proof(ish), and I still want to use both my BPs from time to time without worry about leaks. Any tips?
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Uzza!! How great to see you here
You can fix the travel in the center pin by putting a small felt or nylon (non metal) washer or o ring under the outer screw. Here's a pic of how each little piece goes together on the top cap, it should give you an idea of the size to look for. If you would rather, you can email Mike notcigs@gmail.com and ask him to have Terri send you a couple of the nylon washers for the top cap.
You can fix the travel in the center pin by putting a small felt or nylon (non metal) washer or o ring under the outer screw. Here's a pic of how each little piece goes together on the top cap, it should give you an idea of the size to look for. If you would rather, you can email Mike notcigs@gmail.com and ask him to have Terri send you a couple of the nylon washers for the top cap.
Oh. I guess that should be obvious shouldn't it. I'll pick one up or check if my Original Buzz has one. Thanks Bov.
Can I get a 510 cap on my buzz from a few years ago? I originally had an 808 top cap which I do no use anymore. I haven't used my buzz for over a year but would like to if i had a 510 connection.
You sure can Cari, here's the link to the top caps. Buzz Pro - Accessories for the Buzz Pro - notcigs.com
Here's the link for instructions to change the cap, just be careful not to break the wire on the underside.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/notcigs/110719-replacing-top-cap-buzz.html
Here's the link for instructions to change the cap, just be careful not to break the wire on the underside.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/notcigs/110719-replacing-top-cap-buzz.html
Ok so I had my buzz pro repaired last year both top and bottom chrome caps have been replaced so they are in good condition. It worked fine for a while, and I can't recall the exact sequence of events, but eventually the wire broke off from the ring connector again. So for now I just have it attached directly under the screw and yes, I know this is twisting the wire. It seems to be shorting out somewhere. With no attachment on it, the light turns from red to blue when the button is pressed. As soon as any attachment is screwed on far enough to make contact the light stays red and the device won't fire. Any suggestions before sending it in again? I've done the usual - batteries checked out, cleaned with alcohol, etc...
Hi Munch, could be that the wire underneath the cap has a stray strand loose maybe? Otherwise, are you using an adapter? A bum one can cause shorting as well. Might be time to fix that wire. If you are handy at soldering you could ask the shop to send you one of the little ring terminals and do it yourself. Send Mike an email and see what he suggests notcigs@gmail.com
Nah, there's barely any wire exposed at all. I did have 2 spare terminals but the wire is so short my crimp job didn't last long - which is depressing considering I was a car stereo and alarm installer for 10 years. What gauge are those tiny ring terminals? Looks smaller than 18. Maybe 22?
Is there supposed to be a washer in between the ring and the bottom of the center pin? I have the wire basically going inside the threaded hole because I assumed that's where it would make contact anyway, and I can't see why the ring connector would need to be isolated from the bottom of the center pin.
Is there supposed to be a washer in between the ring and the bottom of the center pin? I have the wire basically going inside the threaded hole because I assumed that's where it would make contact anyway, and I can't see why the ring connector would need to be isolated from the bottom of the center pin.
No washer, just the ring terminal. Look at the pics in this link and you'll see http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/notcigs/110719-replacing-top-cap-buzz.html
I can't remember the terminal size, but Mike would be able to tell you at the email addy I provided earlier. Check your ground screw on the side and make sure it's tight (you probably already did) and no bare spots on either wire inside?
I can't remember the terminal size, but Mike would be able to tell you at the email addy I provided earlier. Check your ground screw on the side and make sure it's tight (you probably already did) and no bare spots on either wire inside?
Is there any way to service old, and I mean old devices?
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
Is it an original Buzz or a Buzz Pro with the thumb dial, Charlie? And is it not working at all?
Actually it is am original infinity it still works but the connection wires have come loose, years ago I replaced the press fit 510 connection with a 510 adapter but haven't used it since it failed. Was thinking about trying to fit an ego connector in there and sending it in to have eyelets or something installed on the positive connection.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
Originally it was black, thinking it needs a new paint job ( I would do) and replace the connection before sending it in
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
You can check with Mike, but I know there are no parts left for the original Infinity or Buzz. Here's his email, explain what you are wanting to do and see what he suggests
notcigs@gmail.com
notcigs@gmail.com
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