Like I said last night. I "got it" on the first post you wrote about it.Bingo! You understand the mechanics.
Good luck.
I loved my primes but I sure got a lot of use out of my 24-70 f2.8 and my 70-200 f2.8 lenses. They were just so handy when the action was only slightly predictable.The photos came out great in my opinion!
Nice to see another Nikon kindred spirit. After 30+ years (my F3HP days) I still love my 105/1.8 lens, even though I have to use it in manual. I like the zooms I have but there is nothing like a fast, sharp prime lens!
Nor can we discern that from this interview with Dr. Farsalinos. It is unclear to me how any metal off-gassing could bypass a uniform A2O3 deposition of Kanthal. That would infer that the alumina is being compromised at extremely low temp's (contrary to its specs). Considering that in normal operation (no hot spots, or exposed wire) of a properly oxidized KA1 wind vaporization should stabilize at/below transition temperature as long as the wind is thermally stable and there is adequate transfer to product flow.
A thermally stable wind is what would then be indicated? No?
Kanthal was designed as a heating element. Its oxidation ensures its durability and resistance to corrosion. As acknowledged by Dr. Fasalinos ceramic insulates (isolates) the base metal/s deterring metallic oxidation of the vaped product. Such a wire/wind not properly oxidized would then exhibit all the primary metal exposure as the alternatives, to both product and the airstream.
So shouldn't we be pulse-annealing all our Kanthal winds in lieu of torching? To properly optimize the winds thermal effectiveness, stability and for the presumptive safety reasons concerning metallic exposure.
Instead it's inferred we shouldn't be torching our coils at all without an alternative. For Kanthal, relegating it to the same potentials of metallic exposure as every other wire variant. I'm not dispensing with the utility of the latter merely pointing out the difference in potentials for KA1's best use.
My reasoning then would be that Kanthal was not used or considered. And not cited per any summaries I've seen yet. Then you're right we don't know what metals are being referred to. And if the coil is what remains "one of the big unknowns" why not address that first and foremost.
I agree with you AT we need to oxidize KA1 and a simple process we all need.
Good luck.
Right onNot that I know of--the OP of the thread is using a coiler and he loves it!
. But the op is just a redneck with some good friends in the vape industry, ... whuppin mods, serious attys and demands a hell of a lot from his vape. .
Right on
He ain't no scientist, doctor, metallurgist, veterinarian or even very skilled with his hands
He's a simple man with more ambition than time, less patience than practice, and has come to realize that my coils don't glow like the ones in the pic that Mac published on the "end of the micro coils" thread.
Am I just gonna sit idly and envy those coils?
Hell ... no I ain't. I just ordered me up some 26 ga and some of them beadalon spool tamers and Ima try to see if I can get a 10 wrap set of duals to glow perfect like that using my artistic wire 2mm coil gizmo.
If I fail and/or the results are not noticably different Ima chalk it up to the "it's simple to shoot at the feet of one coil and make it dance" theory I have and just go back to my coil master.
If I succeed I will go back to my 2mm gizmo.
Again, for me it's never been about making a coil, it's the rigors of mounting them - as in dual parallel - that usually destroys any and all efforts that went into making the perfect coil.
But this time homey ain't playing around with no fishing reel - no, he ain't. Ima closely position that spool right next to the crank rod and watch it thru my illuminated magnifying stand. and I've already started to deplete a battery I will drop to about 3.2 V and use to pulse with
to me, in a nutshell the electrical aspect of all this is all kanthol is electrically conductive on it's surface before it is oxidized. when you wrap a contact coil all of the touching points start out as shorts. these actual contacts are very tiny though compared to the amount of current the wire can carry and in very short order when the wire is heated slowly with current run through it quickly builds up an oxide layer that further degrades this already inferior contact and the contact breaks, leaving each wrap electrically insulated from each other.
I've done plenty of non contact coils and truth is, they do vape ok, but there's just something that they don't give, I think it's what mac calls "the effect". non contact coils though can be done in a way that the wire will never see much more than 450-500 degrees. here's my goto single and dual non contact "never heated to glow" builds
I still prefer my contact coils though most times. I too say that man,all the crap I've breathed in through the years welding and painting and grinding, I'm not going to worry about a tiny chance of a tiny amount of metal being in the vape just yet
Right on
He ain't no scientist, doctor, metallurgist, veterinarian or even very skilled with his hands
He's a simple man with more ambition than time, less patience than practice, and has come to realize that my coils don't glow like the ones in the pic that Mac published on the "end of the micro coils" thread.
Am I just gonna sit idly and envy those coils?
Hell ... no I ain't. I just ordered me up some 26 ga and some of them beadalon spool tamers and Ima try to see if I can get a 10 wrap set of duals to glow perfect like that using my artistic wire 2mm coil gizmo.
If I fail and/or the results are not noticably different Ima chalk it up to the "it's simple to shoot at the feet of one coil and make it dance" theory I have and just go back to my coil master.
If I succeed I will go back to my 2mm gizmo.
Again, for me it's never been about making a coil, it's the rigors of mounting them - as in dual parallel - that usually destroys any and all efforts that went into making the perfect coil.
But this time homey ain't playing around with no fishing reel - no, he ain't. Ima closely position that spool right next to the crank rod and watch it thru my illuminated magnifying stand. and I've already started to deplete a battery I will drop to about 3.2 V and use to pulse with
. Thicker gauge is just easier to work with and is more forgiving so the gap of difference between forming and tensioning gets smaller when wire gets thicker.
bro, are you still telling me that coilmaster still ain't doing it for you??? man with you in mind came up with an addition to my coiler tonight. I'm going to send it to you. I've thought about adding a clamp for a long time but honestly I haven't needed it, but it def makes it even easier and more fool proof. I'm going to send it to you so you can leave all that other gear alone, I'm sure even girly fingers will have no problem with this. it don't get any easier that the way I wrap man, even my electric coil winder wasn't as easy as this
to me it's not about tension as much as it is about consistency, my way gives perfectly consistent uniform coils every time without fail. all the tension that matters is right where the coil is formed, that's where all the stress is, reforming a straight wire into a coil, and that all happens right where the clamp is pinching it, any tension further down the wire changes nothing but allows even more leverage, leverage that personally I don't think you even need, this is enough leverage for a perfect coil without doing it under tension with complicated apparatus. funny thing is I've been showing it since way back in the original thread and still no ones really picked up on just how awesome it is. now with a simple clamp hopefully you'll see what I've been going on about all along while you were reeling in coals brother
here's a video I just made with the new clamp I made for you. send me your address again so I don't have to go searching for it
