Test to determine dead dead atomizer?

[Bman.]

Is there any sort of test I can do on my TW 901 atomizer to determine if it's totally totally dead? I plan on giving it a boil tonight just to see if I can revive the poor mini-toaster.

It has lasted for about 2.5 months with nightly use... one minute we were vaping away..then my ole friend... and first atomizer dropped dead. I was curious to know if there is a sure fire way to tell if this guy is gone for good.

Given my limited use of the ecig in general (just at night when I am relaxing) I am trying to keep the costs down... another $35 bucks for 2 backup atomizers may keep me out of the game. Not that it's super expensive...but cutting pennies where I can.

Bman.

 

[JustJulie]

At 2.5 months, my friend, you've had an excellent run. If it's cold, cold, cold, it's likely dead, dead, dead (may it rest in peace).

But if you have a 901, there's no way you should be spending $35 for two 901 atomizers. Waaaaay too much.

If the only thing you need are two atomizers & you're looking to save pennies, the easiest place to order from would be Widows Bead Work - Home. She charges $10 for DSE901 atomizers--not the cheapest for atomizers, but she offers free shipping on even small orders, so it's $20 period.

If you're going to place a larger order, then there are better places to shop for cheaper atomizers--but you have to order a fair amount to either get free shipping or to make the s/h worthwhile.

Where in Missouri are you?

 

[Bman.]

These are from Totally Wicked... I guess you have to pay extra for the little logo. Actually, the atomizers are 12.95 each but $6 shipping....

Thanks for the link. Much appreciated.

I am down in Springfield...

 

[JustJulie]

Well, the TW logo is pretty cool.

Springfield is a nice area . . . I just keep hoping to find some St. Louis folks so we can start up a local vaping club.

 

[Bman.]

The logo was cool the first day I had it..ok, maybe the second... now it's about quality vapor and good liquid at a decent price.

I head you about finding folks in the area. I really with there was a local vendor... hmm

 

[JustJulie]

Well, we do kind of sort of have a local vendor: MidwestVapor - e-cigarette-forum.com • The place for electronic cigarette reviews, news and chat He's a nice guy with reasonable prices and he ships quickly. My only problem is the model he favors is the 401, which is just about the only model that I don't care for.

Well, if you're ever in the St. Louis area, holler. I have an obscene collection of e-cig, and I'm always willing to meet a fellow e-smoker and let him/her test drive different models.

 

[Majestic]

Another good source for 901 atomizers is AltSmoke They have 901 atomizers starting at $8.99 with discounts for quantity purchases. Rob has very reasonable shipping and provides excellent customer service.

Just thought I would mention it.

 

[breakfastchef]

The easiest way to determine if the atomizer is completely dead is to use a multimeter or any other inexpensive continuity tester available at places like Radio Shack, Target, Walmart, etc. Essentially, you want to know if current flows from the thread of the atomizer, through the heating coil that vaporizes the liquid to the center part of the atomizer connection (the thing with the hole in it). If you have continuity, it is still alive, but could also be FTD (fixin' to die). If there is no continuity, pitch it.

 

[firhill]

I really with there was a local vendor... hmm

Bman,

You're the first person I have ever come across that actually types with a lisp.

 

[ZambucaLu]

Moved out of newbs forum.

Lu

 

[madlock]

Despite knowing very little, I've decided to take matters into my own hands with regard to atomizers that have stopped working. I took-up the suggestion others have made and stopped by Wal-Mart to pick-up one an inexpensive GE Multimeter for $9.99.

Having reached the extent of my expertise before I even opened the package, I read the included instruction sheet; and though it references an ability to test continuity, it offers no "How to" a novice might go about it. Given that the atomizer itself doesn't produce any voltage or current itself to measure, with the benefit of Google I deduced that of the four basic modes (DCV, ACV, DCA, and OHM), OHM is the correct mode to use.

What I don't know is which setting within the OHM function range I should use. Should it be x10, x100, or x1K? When I test a newly-dead atomizer by touching one lead to the atomizer's center hole and another to its outer threads, the multimeter's needle is dead at every setting but x1K. When set to x1K, the needle moves but only barely, from the infinity dead-line to about 80, which I presume to mean that if the atomizer isn't entirely dead already, it might as well be.

Can anyone offer any guidance as to whether I'm using the proper settings and if my interpretation of the results is correct?

Many thanks in advance.

 

[Majestic]

Madlock,

Ohms is the correct setting.

A good atomizer will have a resistance of 3 to 5 ohms. Unfortunately, your meter doesn't have the x1 setting that will allow you to read that small level of resistance. I would suggest taking the meter back for another model that starts with an x1 setting range.

If the resistance of the atomizer is high like the reading you're getting then that atty is dead. From my experience, nothing you do will bring back an atomizer with that high of a resistance.

 

[Jim Davis]

Despite knowing very little, I've decided to take matters into my own hands with regard to atomizers that have stopped working. I took-up the suggestion others have made and stopped by Wal-Mart to pick-up one an inexpensive GE Multimeter for $9.99.

Having reached the extent of my expertise before I even opened the package, I read the included instruction sheet; and though it references an ability to test continuity, it offers no "How to" a novice might go about it. Given that the atomizer itself doesn't produce any voltage or current itself to measure, with the benefit of Google I deduced that of the four basic modes (DCV, ACV, DCA, and OHM), OHM is the correct mode to use.

What I don't know is which setting within the OHM function range I should use. Should it be x10, x100, or x1K? When I test a newly-dead atomizer by touching one lead to the atomizer's center hole and another to its outer threads, the multimeter's needle is dead at every setting but x1K. When set to x1K, the needle moves but only barely, from the infinity dead-line to about 80, which I presume to mean that if the atomizer isn't entirely dead already, it might as well be.

Can anyone offer any guidance as to whether I'm using the proper settings and if my interpretation of the results is correct?

Many thanks in advance.

You mention the "needle" moving. Wrong type of meter. Get a DVM - Digital Volt Meter, where the numbers read out on a display. $5.00 from Harbor Freight Tools. Set to the lowest ohm range, and your good to go.

 

[madlock]

Thanks, all. Will advise.