From all the materials mods are made of, we know from the list of resistance already given, that copper would be the lowest resistance , and stainless steel would be the highest resistance. I would asume then, that the test should include a little Chuck and a Protege?
Testing the resistance of the entire mod
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Smaller diameter wire has more more resistance than larger. If you measured 28-gauge twisted vs 1-inch diameter copper bar you would find a significant difference in resistance. More material means less resistance, and a thicker body wall generally means more material is used.
Oooh, good point! The Protege here is actually my wife's, so I forgot that it's stainless. (And I don't have a Nicostick, so that helps.)
I just wish that I had a meter that can detect the difference between the two. I may have to "borrow" one from Radio Shack over the weekend. Otherwise I have to wait until next week to test stuff.
Build a wheatstone bridge... then tear your hair out trying to get it all balanced!!!
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Come on people, any electrical wire (copper or aluminum) thicker than 32ga will read the same resistance and will have no importance.
There is no difference between a 22ga wire and a mod body, they both conduct the same when it comes to a up to 10-20Watt load.
Differences come in play only when metal pieces are not welded, or wires well soldered.
For example oxidation in metal mods or imperfect soldering in plastic mods.
Assuming that commercial mods are all well sodered then trust me, there is no detectable difference between them.
The only weak link are the battery quality and oxidation on contacts.
There is no difference between a 22ga wire and a mod body, they both conduct the same when it comes to a up to 10-20Watt load.
Differences come in play only when metal pieces are not welded, or wires well soldered.
For example oxidation in metal mods or imperfect soldering in plastic mods.
Assuming that commercial mods are all well sodered then trust me, there is no detectable difference between them.
The only weak link are the battery quality and oxidation on contacts.
Most on the forum aren't aware of that information though Caeser...unless we get a definative test that shows that the difference is less then .00001 ohm then when claimed that "XYZ Mod Vapes like other mods at 5v when its only 3.7v because its made of Kryptonite" People will croud around and cheer from Kryptonite....instead of knowing the facts
Ceasar, thanks for the anecdotal info, but no thanks for the high horse and lack of facts.
Well Ceasar's comment did make me check some facts.
American Wire Gauge, AWG Cable Size Description for Copper Wire Cable
30-gauge copper wire has a resistance of 105.2 Ohms per 1000/feet, 1/10 of an Ohm per foot.
10-gauge, about 1/10-inch diameter copper rod, has a resistance of 0.001 Ohms per foot.
Even 40-gauge wire - 3 thousandths of an inch in diameter - has approximately 1 Ohm per foot. And that can't handle the current in an e-cig.
This information is enough to convince me that the total resistance of any mod can not possibly have an effect on vapor production.
So I'm back to square one - I can't understand why anyone would think that any mod produces more vapor than another mod that uses the same atomizer and battery.
American Wire Gauge, AWG Cable Size Description for Copper Wire Cable
30-gauge copper wire has a resistance of 105.2 Ohms per 1000/feet, 1/10 of an Ohm per foot.
10-gauge, about 1/10-inch diameter copper rod, has a resistance of 0.001 Ohms per foot.
Even 40-gauge wire - 3 thousandths of an inch in diameter - has approximately 1 Ohm per foot. And that can't handle the current in an e-cig.
This information is enough to convince me that the total resistance of any mod can not possibly have an effect on vapor production.
So I'm back to square one - I can't understand why anyone would think that any mod produces more vapor than another mod that uses the same atomizer and battery.
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Ergonomics have nothing to do with vapor production.
Neither does the shine.
The most important thing that increases vapor production in any mod is the age. The mod most recently purchased produces the most vapor.
The second most important thing is if you had to wait more than 4 days for the mod to be made and shipped - the wait also seems to increase vapor production.
Lastly, a webcam also increases vapor production, but only when the webcam is recording the mod in action.
Neither does the shine.
The most important thing that increases vapor production in any mod is the age. The mod most recently purchased produces the most vapor.
The second most important thing is if you had to wait more than 4 days for the mod to be made and shipped - the wait also seems to increase vapor production.
Lastly, a webcam also increases vapor production, but only when the webcam is recording the mod in action.
Hmmm. My Chuck is a rather plain black model. I wonder if bling increases vapor production?
Could you be persuaded to buy 2 Chucks and run a scientific comparison?
Could you be persuaded to buy 2 Chucks and run a scientific comparison?
See, if I would have pumped that info on GA then you wouldn't have checked it for yourself 
I'd say good quality batteries are the most important factor and unless the mod has changed color from oxidation don't sand/shine it.
I'd say good quality batteries are the most important factor and unless the mod has changed color from oxidation don't sand/shine it.
For What's its worth ... About 1.5 weeks ago, I tested different contact posts within the Prodigy, made from several different materials .... These were the results ...
COMPONENTS TESTED:
Batteries:
(2) RCR123a Tenergy Lifepo4 750mAh batteries (100% fully charged)
Atomizer Tested With:
DSE901 Atomizer - reading of 2.9ohms
Switch:
Resistorless, built from several different materials
Materials: (Mind you, RESULTS are LOAD tested)
Brass: 5.87v
Copper: 5.89v
0-1 Steel: 5.92v
Aluminum: 5.75v
A-2 Steel: 5.91v
CRS (Not Sure What This Is): 5.75v
Stainless Steel 304: 5.90v
Essentially, our goal was to try and find a substance that could add enough resistance to the circuit to bring the loaded voltage down to about 5.2-5.4v without the use of the resistor. We were unsuccessful in finding one from the materials above (the materials we just happen to keep in stock) but we have roughly 15 different types of materials coming hoping to find that 1 that does the trick
COMPONENTS TESTED:
Batteries:
(2) RCR123a Tenergy Lifepo4 750mAh batteries (100% fully charged)
Atomizer Tested With:
DSE901 Atomizer - reading of 2.9ohms
Switch:
Resistorless, built from several different materials
Materials: (Mind you, RESULTS are LOAD tested)
Brass: 5.87v
Copper: 5.89v
0-1 Steel: 5.92v
Aluminum: 5.75v
A-2 Steel: 5.91v
CRS (Not Sure What This Is): 5.75v
Stainless Steel 304: 5.90v
Essentially, our goal was to try and find a substance that could add enough resistance to the circuit to bring the loaded voltage down to about 5.2-5.4v without the use of the resistor. We were unsuccessful in finding one from the materials above (the materials we just happen to keep in stock) but we have roughly 15 different types of materials coming hoping to find that 1 that does the trick
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I presume you used a normal 1% error multimeter, they are all the same then.
Atty resistance also changes with temperature.
That material you are looking for, that will drop voltage for 0,4V is a resistor. You are looking for a resistive material and the best is a resistor.
Or you could use a 1N4007 diode to get the exact same voltage drop without producing heat.
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For What's its worth ... About 1.5 weeks ago, I tested different contact posts within the Prodigy, made from several different materials .... These were the results ...
COMPONENTS TESTED:
Batteries:
(2) RCR123a Tenergy Lifepo4 750mAh batteries (100% fully charged)
Atomizer Tested With:
DSE901 Atomizer - reading of 2.9ohms
Switch:
Resistorless, built from several different materials
Materials: (Mind you, RESULTS are LOAD tested)
Brass: 5.87v
Copper: 5.89v
0-1 Steel: 5.92v
Aluminum: 5.75v
A-2 Steel: 5.91v
CRS (Not Sure What This Is): 5.75v
Stainless Steel 304: 5.90v
Essentially, our goal was to try and find a substance that could add enough resistance to the circuit to bring the loaded voltage down to about 5.2-5.4v without the use of the resistor. We were unsuccessful in finding one from the materials above (the materials we just happen to keep in stock) but we have roughly 15 different types of materials coming hoping to find that 1 that does the trick
REAL input. Good deal and thanks! Erm ...CRS =
Cold Rolled Steel?
Corrosion Resistant Steel?
Cranial-Rectal Syndrome?
oop, scratch that last one....
Correct ... Atty resistance changes as well depending on type used ... Anywhere from 2 - 3.8ohms, so that will have an effect on loaded voltage. When everything is said it done, the #'s were pretty clear -- Nothin, atleast, non coated, had much of a change ...
LOL ...
Cranial-Rectal Syndrome?
OUCHIE ... no bueno.
The resistance of the metal itself does not seem to matter, the resistance of the entire mod, very well could. someone needs to test the mods as a whole.
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