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The cake is a lie !
But happy bday dd
All this time and in ain't real..... #$=>)
Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2
Hi there,
got IT
absolutely beautiful and vapes hard !!!!
thanks DD... and Happy Birthday!
got IT
absolutely beautiful and vapes hard !!!!
thanks DD... and Happy Birthday!
Dropping in for a quick stop. Seems a bit quiet in here, but maybe some of the new BB owners are still waking from their nic comas ...?
Tip for the new and current Diver users: Hope DD won't mind the vendor plug, but Stormy's Vapor Cellar now carries what they call "Ready Wire" - pre-made NR - R - NR wire already assembled, in four resistances. You get 50 pieces for $9 - about $.18 each, not bad actually, and less than that if you can find a coupon. The join on them would be hard to notice if the NR and R wire were not different colors.
I recently rebuilt my Divers with the 2.8 ohm version and to me it was WELL worth the money to not have to mess with tying thin little wires together to make it work. These would also be great for Oddy-style rebuildables. I plan on trying them in the ScubaTube this weekend.
Another tip: I've been messing with "micro coils" (you can look 'em up on ECF) in my RDAs and carried the concept over during the Diver builds. Basically, wrap those coils right next to each other instead of spacing them out. Makes for a small, dense coil-pack in the center of the cup. You have to watch the tension so's the wick doesn't get choked, but get that right for whatever wick you use and it works GREAT in the Diver.
Yet another tip: Diver seems real sensitive to the length of the wick. Too long and the ends .... up against the tube, reducing wicking; too short, and they wick too much and flood more easily. I've taken to trimming mine just to the point where it feels like the wick is threading into the upper tube when it's screwed on. This leaves a very small gap between the wick ends and the tube once it's past the threads. Seems to be working well but I still have to take the occasional priming puff. Next time I'm going to try just a smidgen shorter than that and see what happens.
Yet one more tip: Recently I started rolling up a bit of paper towel to about 4-5 mm in diameter and trimming it to fit in the Billet Box tank well, in the divot just behind the atty center pin. Just long enough to fill the gap in the back - NOT long enough to wrap forward around the atty of the carto (which would kill air flow ... but it might be something to try if you find the draw is "airy"). This ends up filling the air gap between the back compartment wall and the carto/Diver atty connector, and the bottom of the compartment and the tank. This serves a few purposes:
- As a diagnostic tool. If there's juice in the well, this will help tell where it's coming from. If the bit of paper towel is soaked, juice is flooding from the atty connector; if it's dry or mostly so, it's most likely condensate from the top and might indicate the need to tighten down the brass ring a bit, or for a better-sealing drip tip. I think.
- Not entirely sure yet, but as a side effect it seems to sop things up when it's just a bit of condensate and keep the compartment drier. At least, it seems to me that the tank is coming out easier whenever I change tanks or replace the carto.
- In an emergency, you've got a tiny little paper towel with you. If you have to ask what that's good for, Richard Dean Anderson would like to have a word with you.
Tip for the new and current Diver users: Hope DD won't mind the vendor plug, but Stormy's Vapor Cellar now carries what they call "Ready Wire" - pre-made NR - R - NR wire already assembled, in four resistances. You get 50 pieces for $9 - about $.18 each, not bad actually, and less than that if you can find a coupon. The join on them would be hard to notice if the NR and R wire were not different colors.
I recently rebuilt my Divers with the 2.8 ohm version and to me it was WELL worth the money to not have to mess with tying thin little wires together to make it work. These would also be great for Oddy-style rebuildables. I plan on trying them in the ScubaTube this weekend.
Another tip: I've been messing with "micro coils" (you can look 'em up on ECF) in my RDAs and carried the concept over during the Diver builds. Basically, wrap those coils right next to each other instead of spacing them out. Makes for a small, dense coil-pack in the center of the cup. You have to watch the tension so's the wick doesn't get choked, but get that right for whatever wick you use and it works GREAT in the Diver.
Yet another tip: Diver seems real sensitive to the length of the wick. Too long and the ends .... up against the tube, reducing wicking; too short, and they wick too much and flood more easily. I've taken to trimming mine just to the point where it feels like the wick is threading into the upper tube when it's screwed on. This leaves a very small gap between the wick ends and the tube once it's past the threads. Seems to be working well but I still have to take the occasional priming puff. Next time I'm going to try just a smidgen shorter than that and see what happens.
Yet one more tip: Recently I started rolling up a bit of paper towel to about 4-5 mm in diameter and trimming it to fit in the Billet Box tank well, in the divot just behind the atty center pin. Just long enough to fill the gap in the back - NOT long enough to wrap forward around the atty of the carto (which would kill air flow ... but it might be something to try if you find the draw is "airy"). This ends up filling the air gap between the back compartment wall and the carto/Diver atty connector, and the bottom of the compartment and the tank. This serves a few purposes:
- As a diagnostic tool. If there's juice in the well, this will help tell where it's coming from. If the bit of paper towel is soaked, juice is flooding from the atty connector; if it's dry or mostly so, it's most likely condensate from the top and might indicate the need to tighten down the brass ring a bit, or for a better-sealing drip tip. I think.
- Not entirely sure yet, but as a side effect it seems to sop things up when it's just a bit of condensate and keep the compartment drier. At least, it seems to me that the tank is coming out easier whenever I change tanks or replace the carto.
- In an emergency, you've got a tiny little paper towel with you. If you have to ask what that's good for, Richard Dean Anderson would like to have a word with you.
Happy birthday Doug...hope that you have/had a great day.
Also wanted to say that for those building could for the diver (or other cup style nr-r wire) if you want a high ohm configuration like 2.5-3 ohm, just use resistance wire...forget about the nr...I find it's very hard to build a .8-1.5 ohm without using nr, but I can easily build a 2.5 ohm using only residence wire...
L
Also wanted to say that for those building could for the diver (or other cup style nr-r wire) if you want a high ohm configuration like 2.5-3 ohm, just use resistance wire...forget about the nr...I find it's very hard to build a .8-1.5 ohm without using nr, but I can easily build a 2.5 ohm using only residence wire...
L
Aww, thanks guys. what a day!!! Started with a trip to the Petting Zoo. They had llamas, them small pig things, and some of those goats that fall over when you yell at um'... plus i got to hold a turtle. Then a trip to the water park!!! and they made that ride where you sit in the inner tube and float down all the slide'y things 45 min longer... Plus they added a gin and grapefruit bar halfway through!!! And the park was hosting the international bikini competition semi-finals, Sweden VS.... ummm... Zimbabwe... ANNND they short listed me as a judge.... And one of the Swedes payed me off with....umm.....cash......only moneyz....
So, all and all, great day! despite the above taking place in my noodle as i ran a batch of BB slide plates on Ruby and set up the new buffer.... which is AWESOME!!!!
some tools take me some time to name, but she was easy... Buffy!!! umm, the aluminum slayer! *sigh*
Yaaaaa, wife ladys here to take me to food time (shu'chi)!!!
Thanks again everyone!!!
So, all and all, great day! despite the above taking place in my noodle as i ran a batch of BB slide plates on Ruby and set up the new buffer.... which is AWESOME!!!!
some tools take me some time to name, but she was easy... Buffy!!! umm, the aluminum slayer! *sigh*
Yaaaaa, wife ladys here to take me to food time (shu'chi)!!!
Thanks again everyone!!!
Welp - I'm still waiting to see mine turn up in the mail. As this one is for the missus for her birthday on the 30th - I'm hoping it will turn up by then. anyone else got info on real world shipping times to the UK?
I always tend to get a bit of a nervous shudder whenever I see the acronym USPS on shipping info.... that last time I dealt with them was when my friend sent me a Box of Twinkies from Idaho 5 years ago - he paid a small fortune in shipping fees and they took 5 months to turn up!!! Bloody good job they were Twinkies actually or they all would have rotted!
I'm eager to get hold of it actually so I can do some measuring and CG model building in order to begin developing the idea I have for an atomizer for this device!
I always tend to get a bit of a nervous shudder whenever I see the acronym USPS on shipping info.... that last time I dealt with them was when my friend sent me a Box of Twinkies from Idaho 5 years ago - he paid a small fortune in shipping fees and they took 5 months to turn up!!! Bloody good job they were Twinkies actually or they all would have rotted!
I'm eager to get hold of it actually so I can do some measuring and CG model building in order to begin developing the idea I have for an atomizer for this device!
Well I have to say this is the first APV I have seen that could be considered artwork. Is there a mailing list or some way to get a heads up when these are available? Are there plans for a clear side so I could show off its guts? I would much prefer to drop my cash on something like this than a Provari
Looks like my idea and bigscreenD's idea have been combined and outsourced
Looks like a combination of both ideas...
latest DC protank ( changeable coil head ,pyrex glass tube and stainless steel parts),Newest 510 DCT tank, View protank , YILOONG Product Details from Jiangmen Yiloong Industrial Co., Ltd. on Alibaba.com
Well I am in the middle of a design change so screw em... LOL
BTW notice that the connector parts don't say SS. Looks like chrome plated brass.
Dan
Looks like a combination of both ideas...
latest DC protank ( changeable coil head ,pyrex glass tube and stainless steel parts),Newest 510 DCT tank, View protank , YILOONG Product Details from Jiangmen Yiloong Industrial Co., Ltd. on Alibaba.com
Well I am in the middle of a design change so screw em... LOL
BTW notice that the connector parts don't say SS. Looks like chrome plated brass.
Dan
Looks like my idea and bigscreenD's idea have been combined and outsourced
Looks like a combination of both ideas...
latest DC protank ( changeable coil head ,pyrex glass tube and stainless steel parts),Newest 510 DCT tank, View protank , YILOONG Product Details from Jiangmen Yiloong Industrial Co., Ltd. on Alibaba.com
Well I am in the middle of a design change so screw em... LOL
BTW notice that the connector parts don't say SS. Looks like chrome plated brass.
Dan
I was surprised honestly. There's a proposed CO-OP for this as a "Diver clone" on here too. China's been a little too quick lately :/
Looks like my idea and bigscreenD's idea have been combined and outsourced
Well, THAT happened quickly. Wonder what the innards look like?
Looks like they are using the same technique as the viv nova rebiuldable. Neg wire outside the isolator and pos wire inside the isolator.
Also looks like the took a carto tube and pressed a female connector in it, like I sugessted on here LOL.
Dan
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