~The Billet BoX~

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Vapian

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So, had the new Bald Rat Pie shipped to work.

At 17:30 Eastwest Sloppy Time, Universally Slow Paced Services interwebs whatsit designated said unit as "Delivered" -- nearly six hours earlier (at 11:32, to be precise-ish).

And you know where it is?

If so, please tell me, 'cause No One at Work knows.

At work mail seems to arrive one of two ways:
- Via Wormhole, Such That It Arrives Prior To It Actually Being Delivered; or
- Via Random Quarantine from This Dimension/Reality (As You Prefer), To Be Delivered At Such Time as the Matron of Such Things Sees Fit.

Pretty sure all packages from Utah travel the second route.

On the plus side, tomorrow should be a very good day.
 

BlueSnake

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I must be doing something wrong, i keep getting dry hits with my billet bridge. it came with a 1.8 ohm coil, im turned all the way down to 4v and am getting a few good ones and then ill get a burnt one. any ideas?

I found the aspire heads to be hit and miss. Some vape good, some don't. IMHO
 

Katdarling

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If I may offer a suggestion/thought... there may be an issue with the wick itself. Dry hits, in my estimation, equal not enuf liquid to the coil. So why is that. Chain vaping is one cause.

If I learned anything from the Drunk o' J, I learned that too much wicking can cause a dry hit. Too much wicking will choke the coil. Choked coil = not enuf liquid arriving thereabouts. You might try removing the wicking and resupplying with the soup de jour material, be it silica, cotton, or the new rayon stuffs.

J, please jump in and say this in vape speak for me, would ya? TIA .. or TMI ..... or FDA ..... or or or, acronym of your choice.
 

BlueSnake

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If I may offer a suggestion/thought... there may be an issue with the wick itself. Dry hits, in my estimation, equal not enuf liquid to the coil. So why is that. Chain vaping is one cause.

If I learned anything from the Drunk o' J, I learned that too much wicking can cause a dry hit. Too much wicking will choke the coil. Choked coil = not enuf liquid arriving thereabouts. You might try removing the wicking and resupplying with the soup de jour material, be it silica, cotton, or the new rayon stuffs.

J, please jump in and say this in vape speak for me, would ya? TIA .. or TMI ..... or FDA ..... or or or, acronym of your choice.

There really are no adjustments to the wicks you can make to the aspire heads. They are pretty much sealed. They can come apart but they are a b1tch to get back together right.
 

Katdarling

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Welp...... guess I just divulged my secret superior modding expertise, Snake. :blush: :oops:

I have never gutted an Asspire coil, and will most likely never do so, but I did learn a lot from the J!

Sorry, Airborne... I have been little useful here. :(
 
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jcash74

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I would say they are equal opportunity tinkerees. And neither require tinkering really. Do you WANT to tinker? I'm going with no, you don't.
I'm looking for something as close to the ease of use I get from cartos honestly. I tried using smok atties when I was using a protank 2 and never got them working right. I discovered cartos and have been using them ever since.
 

BlueSnake

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I'm looking for something as close to the ease of use I get from cartos honestly. I tried using smok atties when I was using a protank 2 and never got them working right. I discovered cartos and have been using them ever since.

If someone ever does another co-op for the Sabot DDD that is pretty close to being carto easy. A lot of people are using the stock Smoktech Aro coils in them with great success.

I also find that cartos are very good in the BB. Stick to 3 ohm cartos as this is what the BB was designed to use.
 

Katdarling

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I'm looking for something as close to the ease of use I get from cartos honestly. I tried using smok atties when I was using a protank 2 and never got them working right. I discovered cartos and have been using them ever since.

Now you're talkin' MY language! I don't mod. I don't RB anything (as if that wasn't obvious). I'm a karto tank woman all the way, but having said that, the B Bridge and the Sabot both are really pretty fiddle free. They both require plopping in a new head every now and then, but that's no biggie.

If you're happy with kartos, tho, I also say just stick with them (as the Snake said). I love the slotted 3.0Ω for the B Box. When in stock, I get the IKV's. Otherwise, Boges are fine too. The slots seem to feed very well with the design of the B Box tank.
 

Rab D

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I must be doing something wrong, i keep getting dry hits with my billet bridge. it came with a 1.8 ohm coil, im turned all the way down to 4v and am getting a few good ones and then ill get a burnt one. any ideas?

Like BlueSnake mentioned, the heads are hit and miss, my first lasted only an hour - at least I think it did. With hindsight, the dry hits may have been because I hadn't tightened down the brass ring far enough, so contact was intermittent - certainly, that happened with my next attempt. (I didn't want to over-tighten in case it stripped the threads on the case. But again I think worrying unnecessarily, as not seen anyone report damaged threads anywhere.)

I'm relieved losing the bridge in the tank wouldn't be the disaster I imagined! I can see how getting the upper part out with a biro would work - but how about the lower part?
 

Rmervin

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Like BlueSnake mentioned, the heads are hit and miss, my first lasted only an hour - at least I think it did. With hindsight, the dry hits may have been because I hadn't tightened down the brass ring far enough, so contact was intermittent - certainly, that happened with my next attempt. (I didn't want to over-tighten in case it stripped the threads on the case. But again I think worrying unnecessarily, as not seen anyone report damaged threads anywhere.)

I'm relieved losing the bridge in the tank wouldn't be the disaster I imagined! I can see how getting the upper part out with a biro would work - but how about the lower part?

I have been vaping on a rebuilt aspire head in a Billet Bridge since 6/21, I have rewicked once (2.4 ohm/cotton ) This was I want to say "a piece of p*ss" using the Aspire BDC kit from Vape n Quit in the UK (*thread search for details). I can't really say this was "a piece of p*ss" because I'm from Georgia and we don't say that, (it would be pretentious).

I recently wrapped a coil for the Diver using 2.6 ohm pre-joined wire and cotton. Surprisingly, immho, the performance of the two is almost identical. Rebuilding the Bridge with the kit is just a bit easier than free-styling the Diver, but it also seems easier after having rebuilt the aspire bdc.

For the question: Atmistique calls their tool the "Battler" GP calls theirs the "Carto Driver" they help with various insertions/removals/juice changings, etc. Other good tools when fiddling a BB might include tweezers and patient prayer. I know I lost my kit inside the tank the first time I set up a Bridge, but this was minor drama. And yes I would recommend pushing from the top of the tank when removing the Bridge to avoid the short bit getting lost inside. The tools have an O ring at the end that fit the carto/bridge/diver end and seal the tank when you push the atomizer out. :)
 
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ikbtops

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Something I've discovered for myself,although possibly posted numerously elsewhere is when I start to get dry or less flavorful hits I tilt the air vents of the BB up parallel to the ceiling and take a pull or two. If it starts to get a little over saturated I tilt the vents toward the side as I pull.
I suppose I could always just keep them at a 45 degree angle.
 
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