The Billow v2!

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Heespharm

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Yeah. It definitely does back out EVERY time. I even make sure to really tighten it down like vapnfagan suggests in his review.

Another thing I thought I'd mention here is that out of my two different sets of micro screwdrivers, none of them really fit in the screws of this tank. I actually use the little blue screwdriver that comes with it.

So forgive the dumb question, like I said I haven't used a tank in a while, but how long do you guys wait between hits when you're using it? I may be getting dry hits because I'm trying to use it like a dripper in that I sometimes take one long hit immediately after taking a long hit.


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I can vape any way I want long or short and never a dry hit


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jj6404

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The original has delrin and all my delrin tips fit
What do you mean "the original" has delrin? The first billow? If you're talking about the drip tip that comes with the billow v2 then yes I know it is half delrin but I'm saying I'm looking for an ALL delrin drip tip that fits snugly in it because the stock drip tip gets super hot on me at 0.4 ohms on a mech or 40 watts.

And you said you can vape any which way and you get no dry hits. OK can you share your build and wicking tips?


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Heespharm

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What do you mean "the original" has delrin? The first billow? If you're talking about the drip tip that comes with the billow v2 then yes I know it is half delrin but I'm saying I'm looking for an ALL delrin drip tip that fits snugly in it because the stock drip tip gets super hot on me at 0.4 ohms on a mech or 40 watts.

And you said you can vape any which way and you get no dry hits. OK can you share your build and wicking tips?


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I'm using nickel builds so it's much different but I'm using 28 ha nickel at 0.062 ohm...

But I will say using rayon with my 80/20 juice makes a huge difference


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Mad Scientist

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Whether its on its side all night or in a hot car for hours your tank shouldn't leak period and if it does that means it doesn't like the way it's wicked.

I wick to almost encourage leaking. If it won't leak in a hot car or on its side, I did it wrong lol. What I shoot for is actually wicking more liquid during a pull, not absorbing liquid after. When it's right, chain vaping is not an issue.
 

jj6404

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I wick to almost encourage leaking. If it won't leak in a hot car or on its side, I did it wrong lol. What I shoot for is actually wicking more liquid during a pull, not absorbing liquid after. When it's right, chain vaping is not an issue.
PLEASE tell/show me how you wick to get this.

And the guy with the helix build that says it keeps up (sorry can't multi quote on iPhone with tapatalk). I thought it was my build. I'm now running 26g/36g N80/KA1 claptons 6 wrap and I can't take a hit past 4 seconds without getting a dry hit and I definitely can't chain vape.

I used enough ... organic cotton to pull with little resistance (like when wicking an rda) and cut so that just a tiny bit sits in the little wicking shelves.


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Mad Scientist

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PLEASE tell/show me how you wick to get this.

And the guy with the helix build that says it keeps up (sorry can't multi quote on iPhone with tapatalk). I thought it was my build. I'm now running 26g/36g N80/KA1 claptons 6 wrap and I can't take a hit past 4 seconds without getting a dry hit and I definitely can't chain vape.

I used enough ... organic cotton to pull with little resistance (like when wicking an rda) and cut so that just a tiny bit sits in the little wicking shelves.


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I hope this helps: here is wick touching the deck with a tiny little bit in the well:

image.jpg


Note that the small bit in the well does not fill the well, just sort of dips into it. Looking down, there should be "daylight" between the edge of the wick and the outer limit of the well dimension. From this angle it may look like a bit of the wick is over a bit of the air hole, but it's actually not. Less is more; the more open you can leave the juice channels, the better. It will leak if you turn it on its side but who cares. Also, don't hesitate to take it apart and readjust or trim the wicks better after you try a few pulls. Just be delicate and careful with reinstalling the chimney ring so it doesn't disturb things.


Here are couple of tools you MUST have -- quality trim scissors and quality sharp tweezers. They don't cost much at all but it's got to be good quality. You've got to be able to trim off a gnat's eyelash if a gnat's eyelash amount needs to be trimmed off. (And sorry for the fluorescent "stripes"-- I have to set up some better lighting at some point)

image.jpg
 
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jj6404

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I hope this helps: here is wick touching the deck with a tiny little bit in the well:

View attachment 464117

Note that the small bit in the well does not fill the well, just sort of dips into it. Looking down, there should be "daylight" between the edge of the wick and the outer limit of the well dimension. From this angle it may look like a bit of the wick is over a bit of the air hole, but it's actually not. Less is more; the more open you can leave the juice channels, the better. It will leak if you turn it on its side but who cares. Also, don't hesitate to take it apart and readjust or trim the wicks better after you try a few pulls. Just be delicate and careful with reinstalling the chimney ring so it doesn't disturb things.


Here are couple of tools you MUST have -- quality trim scissors and quality sharp tweezers. They don't cost much at all but it's got to be good quality. You've got to be able to trim off a gnat's eyelash if a gnat's eyelash amount needs to be trimmed off. (And sorry for the fluorescent "stripes"-- I have to set up some better lighting at some point)

View attachment 464118
Thanks. My wicking actually doesn't look so different from yours, except I actually might have a little less cotton on the actual deck. I wonder how people achieve the no dry hit and no leak though


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Mad Scientist

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image.jpg
I wonder how people achieve the no dry hit and no leak though

The only way I know of is to fully cover or stuff the juice channels with wick to prevent a leak even when on its side, and then use thinner juice or reduce airflow so the draw helps to suck in more juice. Thick juice and open airflow need open juice channels. Open juice channels will always allow a leak if one of the juice channels is exposed when the atty is on its side. No free lunch lol.

If you are still having trouble, try my "cotton well" wick method. Form or better yet cut a tiny "V" in the wick at the position of the well. Here's a (admittedly bad) pic on the STM RBA but the principle is the same on the b2. Open juice channels. Looking down the wick should "surround" the juice channel but not completely cover it.
 
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jj6404

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View attachment 464156

The only way I know of is to fully cover or stuff the juice channels with wick to prevent a leak even when on its side, and then use thinner juice or reduce airflow so the draw helps to suck in more juice. Thick juice and open airflow need open juice channels. Open juice channels will always allow a leak if one of the juice channels is exposed when the atty is on its side. No free lunch lol.

If you are still having trouble, try my "cotton well" wick method. Form or better yet cut a tiny "V" in the wick at the position of the well. Here's a (admittedly bad) pic on the STM RBA but the principle is the same on the b2. Open juice channels. Looking down the wick should "surround" the juice channel but not completely cover it.
That's exactly how I used to wick my STM when I had it. I don't see how this can be applied in the Billow v2 though [emoji53] . Is this the method you use to wick it?

I don't plan on leaving it on its side ever again so I care mostly about not getting any dry hits but I still don't want it to leak obviously if I'm carrying it around in my bag or pocket at 15 degree angles or so.


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Dioxyde

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I wick to almost encourage leaking. If it won't leak in a hot car or on its side, I did it wrong lol. What I shoot for is actually wicking more liquid during a pull, not absorbing liquid after. When it's right, chain vaping is not an issue.

I don't understand though, you should be able to chain vape like no tomorrow and still be leak proof with optimal wicking.
 

jj6404

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I don't understand though, you should be able to chain vape like no tomorrow and still be leak proof with optimal wicking.
Yeah. Still trying to find that optimal wicking. Just rewicked it again and tried chain vaping, no dice. Took one good hit, exhaled, tried another and 3 seconds in - desert sandstorm in my throat.

Anyway I found one of my old delrin drip tips that fits perfectly and looks the ....!

065a644856d0f95c4b9f77914f1f8ec9.jpg



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Dioxyde

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Yeah. Still trying to find that optimal wicking. Just rewicked it again and tried chain vaping, no dice. Took one good hit, exhaled, tried another and 3 seconds in - desert sandstorm in my throat.

Anyway I found one of my old delrin drip tips that fits perfectly and looks the ****!

065a644856d0f95c4b9f77914f1f8ec9.jpg



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Yeah each new rta is a process, sometimes just going back to the simple method I posted does the trick. Where did you get that drip tip?
 

Mad Scientist

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I don't understand though, you should be able to chain vape like no tomorrow and still be leak proof with optimal wicking.

I can't make it do that. To prevent leaks when it is tilted, the juice holes need to be "stoppered" with wick. Otherwise, as soon as one of the holes sees the tank "bubble," atmospheric air will travel in the drip tip, down the chimney and out that hole into the tank. Liquids seek their own level and you know the rest. Slowly over time, leaky mess.

With my juice (80% VG) and my build (11 wraps 28 AWG for each coil) and my power preference (35 watts), I can't get it to really sop up the juice without leaving the juice channels exposed. It will wick while the draw is in progress (the rising bubbles occur while I'm still drawing) but it will also leak if on its side. I don't know of a better way to wick but I'm always trying to learn new techniques.
 

jj6404

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Yeah each new rta is a process, sometimes just going back to the simple method I posted does the trick. Where did you get that drip tip?
It's been so long but i think it was from evcigerattes.com or something like that... Or madvapes? I don't remember. I'm pretty sure it was one of the two. But I absolutely love it on the billow. It's friction fit wide bore and it fits perfectly in there. Even my cherry vapes tip is a little loose but this one is perfect. And it doesn't get hot.


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Mad Scientist

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That's exactly how I used to wick my STM when I had it. I don't see how this can be applied in the Billow v2 though [emoji53] . Is this the method you use to wick it?

I don't plan on leaving it on its side ever again so I care mostly about not getting any dry hits but I still don't want it to leak obviously if I'm carrying it around in my bag or pocket at 15 degree angles or so.


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Yes, sorry I thought I memtioned that. The juice channels must be clear of wick for the most part. It won't leak unless you tilt it on it's side. Then it will leak. Applying it to the b2 is same as for the STM. You have a juice channel and you need to trim and shape the wick so that juice channel sees "daylight" (that is, at least part of its dimension is open to the chimney and on up to daylight).
 

jj6404

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Yes, sorry I thought I memtioned that. The juice channels must be clear of wick for the most part. It won't leak unless you tilt it on it's side. Then it will leak. Applying it to the b2 is same as for the STM. You have a juice channel and you need to trim and shape the wick so that juice channel sees "daylight" (that is, at least part of its dimension is open to the chimney and on up to daylight).
Oh ok. Well thanks again. I get it. I'm still experimenting to find this perfect wick for it that Dioxyde mentioned though lol. I don't really feel like laying it on its side to test if my wicking job leaks right now so I'll just carry it around and see from that I guess.


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