The "Clearmax" VV/VW mod.

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skipdashu

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The battery won't short against the metal tube if you don't remove the protective shrink wrap.

Yea, but in a single batt tube mode that uses the case as (-) it doesn't make any difference anyway. Assuming you don't put it in upside down (which could be real bad news).

The problem is only on un-insulated tube mods that stack two batts... and even then it's only the top battery that makes any diff.

naked batt in bolt.jpg
 
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skipdashu

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@ skipdasu, so how close is it to be able to use 2 18350's?. I figure it must have a little more space as MV is saying ICR 18650's fit.

You are right. I actually have a pair of flat top 18350s that'll go in and you can get a couple threads of the cap on. I did it just to see. I don't use it that way for 3 reasons.

1) I don't like my ZMax with 2 x 18350s in it. It's too aggressive and settings don't seem as consistent. I don't vape at 13~22 watts so it's just not of any use to me.

2) I've seen the (+) connection broken on a VMax because of too much battery length. That top connection (+) is soldered directly to the circuit board and too much pressure will crack the solder joint.

3) Except at very high settings (>12w maybe or using 6v) the 18650 IMR/CGR should run longer than the 2 x 18350s. Now at very high settings the 2 x 18350 might actually run as long or longer. Caveat: I haven't actually measured this. Lemme pull off my socks and try to do the math on this.
 
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mnementh666

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You know mnementh666, it didn't even click in my micro brain that it's display was red instead of the blue of my Z until you posted those pics... LOL!

I do find the blue slightly dimmer and slightly easier to read... at least for this ol' geezer.

I'd been looking into a Z since CCV first started talking about them, and watching reviews, and even subscribed to the Z thread after it started. And the red display was what I really wanted, but I was going to pick one up regardless. So the red on the Clear was a bit of a surprise. :)
Blue is my fav color, but I find most blue LEDs are way too bright and actually annoying. I can't judge the one in the Z, never having had one in hand, but in all the vid reviews it looks typically bright.

And the bit about the batts shorting was just facetious. :D

And now I wish I'd waited for the AcryliMax. that's a nice looking tube. *shrug* oh well. I'm happy with it.

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billherbst

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billherbst

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Cheers billherbst, Post some pictures when it arrives!

Will do, Dirk, along with a first impressions review. When I ordered, Madvapes had the dimensions of the tube listed as 1.5" x 5", but that's clearly wrong. I imagine they meant 1.05" in diameter. I mean, the tube is a little big, what with the thick acrylic and all, but it's not that big. LOL.
 

billherbst

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After a week of waiting, my red Acrylimax from Madvapes arrived yesterday. That’s longer than shipping takes on most of my Madvapes orders, but it is across the continent, so that’s OK. With a 10% off coupon and free shipping, I paid $71.99.

As everyone reading this thread knows, the Acrylimax is a retail FrankenMod using the guts of a SmokTech Zmax in an acrylic tube. No eGo connector (I don’t care), no metal tube (I don’t care), bigger in length and diameter (not my choice, but it is what it is), and considerably cheaper, both in build quality and price (I care). Unlike the Zmax, which can use either one 18650 or two stacked 18350 batteries, the Acrylimax can use only an 18650. We already know from tests that the Zmax puts out absurd power levels with stacked 18350s and considerably less with an 18650. This is exactly what I wanted, since my Vmax V2 is so egregiously mis-calibrated that I cannot use it to vape at lower voltages (3.7-4.0 volts). The combination of 3-15 watt power regulation and the 18650 battery meant that I could compensate for the miscalibration and actually turn down the voltage to levels at which I often vape.

I need not discuss vape quality, display, or menu, since all those are identical to a Zmax. What I will share are my reactions to appearance, size, and build quality.

Appearance: As you can see in the accompanying pictures, the red Acrylimax tube is attractive. At least it is to me. The swirl pattern (unique for each unit) varies from light pink to dark burgundy and appears overall as a deep wine red. Nice. The acrylic tube is substantial, not flimsy, and feels good in the hand. It’s smooth and shiny, but not slippery in my hand.

Dimensions:
Because the wall of the tube is 1/8” thick, the diameter of the Acrylimax is about 1.0”, or 1/4” more than the V/Zmax’s .75” width. It’s also longer---5.25” versus the V/Zmax’s 4.6”. This is a big mod, no question about that. Finally, the device is a bit lighter than my Vmax V2. Weight with batteries installed is 3.60 oz. for the Acrylimax versus 4.15 oz. for the Vmax.

Safety: The tube has four venting holes spaced around the circumference just below the firing button and another in the bottom end cap, which is metal. This is good, especially given the disturbing reports we’ve been reading recently of Zmaxes auto-firing and melting down.

Fit and finish: Only fair. The Acrylimax is hand-made, but not like an APV built by an artisan modder, such as my Penguin tin VV, which is superbly built by Caged. No, the Acrylimax is, well, fair-to-middlin’ in build quality. I wouldn’t use the word “shoddy”---that would be unfair---but it’s clearly designed for ease of manufacture, speed of assembly, and minimal expense. By contrast, my ProVari is a blem, purchased at a reduced price from ProVape, yet I’ll be darned if I can find a flaw anywhere. The Acrylimax lacks that level of attention to detail and quality control.

For instance, although the threading of the metal bottom cap is smooth, the interior female threads are just a ring of metal that is press-fit into the bottom of the acrylic tube, with a shielded wire extending down a groove in the tube from the regulator board to make the ground (negative) connection. Within two hours of my putting the Acrylimax into service, the inner thread ring started to slip out from the tube, pulled out by the pressure of the spring on the battery when the bottom cap was screwed on. I pulled out the inner thread ring, applied a thin film of super-glue, and pressed it back in.

Did that work? Yes, perfectly. Still, it’s not a particularly good sign that I had to make my first user-repair after only two hours of use.

Also, the tube, which has a wider diameter than the metal end cap, is cut off flush at the bottom, so there’s a sharp edge of overhang where the bottom cap meets the tube. I didn’t like how that looked or felt, so I used sandpaper to make a “rounded bevel” at the bottom, then polished it up with a dremel buffer (see pics). Much better.

Like my Young-June Vtubes, the firing button (really just a cover for the switch on the regulator board) rattles when I shake the Acrilymax. Unlike my Vtubes, however, the Acrylimax firing button is much looser (it shakes visibly in its hole) and rattles more loudly. The button works fine, and I’m not particularly worried that it will fail, but the fit is somewhat less than a tight, high-quality tolerance. Ah well, you get what you pay for.

Power: I’m running the Acrylimax at a setting of 6.0 watts, and the vape intensity is equivalent to my Kicked mods running at 10.0 watts. That mis-calibration is OK with me because I can turn it down if I want. I'm not likely to ever need the max 15-18 watts that this device can crank out with an 18650.

Vape time between battery swaps: I’m using a flat-top 2250mAh Panasonic CGR18650, and battery voltage is already down to 3.8 volts after about three hours of vaping, so I don’t expect to get great battery life. According to Madvapes specs, the Acrylimax can use protected Li-Ions, so perhaps the 3100mAh Panasonic NCR18650 would fit and give more impressive vape times. I don’t have any of those, though, so it’s a moot point.

Besides the safety concerns (auto-firing and melting down), the big question is durability. How will the Acrilymax hold up over time? I don’t know the answer to that question. Time will tell.

So far, I like it. I knew the limitations going in of what I was buying, and---having shelled out only $72 for the Acrylimax---I’m happy.

acrylimax.jpgacrylimax-comparison.jpg
 

mnementh666

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Billherbst, and anyone else with Clear/Acrylimax,
the only issue I've come up with so far after daily use is that my battery cap doesn't seem to make very good contact with the pressed in metal threaded ring.
It can be kinda temperament in how it's screwed together. 90% of the time, it's fine, but every so often the cap needs to be loosened and tightened a few times to get reliable power to the board. I've tried a bit of noalox, then cleaning the threads. Still about the same. Next thought was maybe using some steel wool or sandpaper to lightly scuff the threads a bit to clean some of the chrome off.
Any thoughts or input?

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skipdashu

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Billherbst, and anyone else with Clear/Acrylimax,
the only issue I've come up with so far after daily use is that my battery cap doesn't seem to make very good contact with the pressed in metal threaded ring.
It can be kinda temperament in how it's screwed together. 90% of the time, it's fine, but every so often the cap needs to be loosened and tightened a few times to get reliable power to the board. I've tried a bit of noalox, then cleaning the threads. Still about the same. Next thought was maybe using some steel wool or sandpaper to lightly scuff the threads a bit to clean some of the chrome off.
Any thoughts or input?

I'd be more suspicious of the ground wire to ring connection.
 

mnementh666

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I'd be more suspicious of the ground wire to ring connection.

I'd thought of that too, but I can't quite figure out how to pull the ring to resolder the connection, without screwing up the connection to the board. So figured the threading would be the next best thing to troubleshoot. :)
I already soldered the spring to the cap, but no joy there. Cleaned the positive connection that's on the board, and the spring end, and both battery terminals.
I really like the mod, and don't want to send it back, I don't feel like it's really a genuine issue, and being able see all the innards makes figuring out some of the logistics easy, but pulling the ring might be the first step down the road to a truly broken mod. ;)
Like I said, the majority of the time it's perfectly functional. So it's a low priority thing. But if I could eliminate this one little niggling issue, it'd be perfect.


Completely offtopic but I blew some poor random-overpriced-booth-ecig salesman's mind when I whipped out the clearmax at a home improvement show a couple weeks ago. He said "what the he** is that massive thing?! It's huge!". They were selling some 510 size ecig in kit form for about $80. Like blu, but not.
Maybe I got someone else to join the real ecig community. :beer:


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billherbst

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Billherbst, and anyone else with Clear/Acrylimax,
the only issue I've come up with so far after daily use is that my battery cap doesn't seem to make very good contact with the pressed in metal threaded ring.
It can be kinda temperament in how it's screwed together. 90% of the time, it's fine, but every so often the cap needs to be loosened and tightened a few times to get reliable power to the board. I've tried a bit of noalox, then cleaning the threads. Still about the same. Next thought was maybe using some steel wool or sandpaper to lightly scuff the threads a bit to clean some of the chrome off.
Any thoughts or input?

I'd be more suspicious of the ground wire to ring connection.

mnementh,

I think skip is probably right. The inner ring with the female threads is just press fit into the tube and the ground wire (mine has a small ball of solder on the end). When my inner threads began to come out, and I super-glued them back in, I made sure that the ground wire was very snug against the metal ring of the threads. My "repair" has worked perfectly. Solid electrical contact from the moment the bottom cap threads touch the inner ring threads---the display lights up to let you know that the connection has been made. Also, super-gluing the inner ring helped to make my Acrylimax "feel" more durable and better machined.

The only funky part now is the firing button. It works well and may be no cause for concern, but the loose fit and rattling are a little on the hand-made side.
 

Aphex13

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I just ordered a clearmax to give the zmax board a shot. I was thinking, since the internal threads on the bottom of the tube seem to come out easily, how hard would it be to cut the tube to use 18500 or 18490 sized batteries? Is the tube bored out at all at the bottom for the thread ring to fit, or is it just pressed into the tube? I'm not really concerned with ruining the mod, as it was cheap, and I've got plenty of boxes laying around that I could toss the guts into.
 

dwcraig1

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I just ordered a clearmax to give the zmax board a shot. I was thinking, since the internal threads on the bottom of the tube seem to come out easily, how hard would it be to cut the tube to use 18500 or 18490 sized batteries? Is the tube bored out at all at the bottom for the thread ring to fit, or is it just pressed into the tube? I'm not really concerned with ruining the mod, as it was cheap, and I've got plenty of boxes laying around that I could toss the guts into.
I can't answer your question but it sounds like a great idea.
 

billherbst

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I just ordered a clearmax to give the zmax board a shot. I was thinking, since the internal threads on the bottom of the tube seem to come out easily, how hard would it be to cut the tube to use 18500 or 18490 sized batteries? Is the tube bored out at all at the bottom for the thread ring to fit, or is it just pressed into the tube? I'm not really concerned with ruining the mod, as it was cheap, and I've got plenty of boxes laying around that I could toss the guts into.

Aphex,

Your plan sounds good and should work like a charm.

The female thread inner ring (into which the bottom cap screws) is simply press fit into the tube. (Maybe it's glued, but when mine came loose on Day One, I didn't see any evidence of glue. I super-glued the ring back into the tube, and that repair has been dependable and durable.) The channel for the ground wire runs the length of the acrylic tube if I recall correctly, and the "connector" at the end of that wire is just a small flat plate that's not soldered---it just makes pressure contact with the metal thread ring. Cutting off 15mm from the bottom of the tube and refitting the thread ring (either by press-fitting or gluing) should work perfectly to give you an 18490/18500 Clearmax. If you save the 15mm section of tube, you'll even have the option of re-creating an 18650 Clearmax by simply super-gluing it back onto the end of the tube.

As an aside, my Acrylimax has been trouble-free since I fixed the thread ring and rounded off the bottom of the tube. Yes, it does use the exaggerated Vavg settings, so your voltage or wattage settings need to be adjusted downwards to compensate. In power-regulation mode, 4.5-5.0 watts is equivalent to 8-9 watts RMS, but it's consistent and reliable. The clear plastic firing button looks and feels a little cheesy, but it works flawlessly.

I have a Vamo on the way (from OKC Vapes) that uses the same chip with Vrms calibration, so we'll see how that compares. That APV is a three-section tube, so it works in any of three battery modes: a single 18650, a single 18350, or two stacked 18350s.
 

mnementh666

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I can tell you :) the threaded ring is set into a bored out section into the tube.
I'll attempt to attach a pic...

As you can hopefully see, the ring is approx the same ID as the tube, so the lip is very small. I've pulled the threaded ring out slightly to help you visualize better.

I've contemplated the box mod idea too. :)

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