I'll be traveling with this white light E-Power during the next few days. I'll post what happens. You can bet I'll be packing the E-Power 14650 with the blue switch module as a back-up.
The current E-Power 14650 switch issue
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I just go my new epower from ccv. It only came with the white switch only. I haven't had a problem using it all day. I'm just wondering if it stops firing the ressurectors will I be able to switch to a normal carto and use it still or will the switch be burned up by that point?
If the white light switch module eventually fails to fire the 1.7. ohm LR XL Resurrector it will probably still work great with with the 2.0 ohm LR XL carto (sold by Hoosier). That's been my experience. Those two white switch modules wouldn't fire the Resurrector but work fine with 2.0 LR. The 2.0 ohm LR XL is the same size as the Resurrector (XL) and holds the same amount of juice. The slight difference in resistance is not very noticeable when vaping but one carto will work reliably with the new switch and the other won't.
Keep in contact and let us know how things work out. I"m very interested in knowing how the new E-Power 14650 kits are working. CCV changed from the SmokTech battery to an IMR battery and changed out the stock battery spring. Maybe CCV has a second-generation white light switch module: I don't know.
I purchased my E-Power 14650 kit from Hoosier in mid-November. That one has the blue light switch module.
My other two E-Powers were built inexpensively from factory parts purchased early in December. One of the white light switches came from Hoosier, the other from CCV.
The gold plated spring is just in the bag of extras. So it may have the stock one still and I have no idea how to change the spring. As far as I can tell the batteries are smoktech. That is atleast what is on the battery. I'm hoping the switch doesn't go bad. Is there anywhere I can order the blue ones?
I don't know of anyone who is still selling the blue light switch modules.
The battery spring is not that hard to change out. I use a pair of long needle nose pliers to pull them out. A crochet hook or something similar would work, even the head of a long nail or screw would work. The tricky part is installing a new spring. Wide part of the spring rests on the bottom of the battery tube. Squeeze the wide base rings of the spring just a little to compress it enough to fit into the battery tube. Then use a battery to push the spring into place at the bottom of the tube.
As far as I can tell, the switches don't actually go bad they just weren't designed to operate reliably below 2.0 ohms like the blue light switchers were. I suspect the new switches have the best chance of working with cartos under 2.0 ohms if the battery is relatively new. After a few charge cycles all batteries start to weaken: that's when I suspect my white light switches stop working with the Resurrectors.
Even if the white switch E-Power I'm using right now fails to fire the Resurrector it's going to work fine with the 2.0 ohm LR XL cartos or other single coil cartos over 2.0 ohms. 2.0 ohm is still an LR carto.
The battery spring is not that hard to change out. I use a pair of long needle nose pliers to pull them out. A crochet hook or something similar would work, even the head of a long nail or screw would work. The tricky part is installing a new spring. Wide part of the spring rests on the bottom of the battery tube. Squeeze the wide base rings of the spring just a little to compress it enough to fit into the battery tube. Then use a battery to push the spring into place at the bottom of the tube.
As far as I can tell, the switches don't actually go bad they just weren't designed to operate reliably below 2.0 ohms like the blue light switchers were. I suspect the new switches have the best chance of working with cartos under 2.0 ohms if the battery is relatively new. After a few charge cycles all batteries start to weaken: that's when I suspect my white light switches stop working with the Resurrectors.
Even if the white switch E-Power I'm using right now fails to fire the Resurrector it's going to work fine with the 2.0 ohm LR XL cartos or other single coil cartos over 2.0 ohms. 2.0 ohm is still an LR carto.
Thanks if need be I will try changing the spring. I'm glad I have some clearomizers that are above 2ohms. Are they going to be making a low res switch anytime soon?
Yes, Rob passed along word from Brent at Hoosier that a new version of the white switch module is either in the works at SmokTech or on the way. This new version will have the five-click lockout feature and will handle LR cartos down to 1.25 ohm.
Yeah the new LR white LED switch has already been ,ade and Brent from Hoosier said he expects his order to come right around new years. Andrew didnt actually know about the LR switch until I told him and he them asked the Smoktech rep he deals with about it and the guy confirmed it. He said he placed an order for a few hundred. He told me he expects to get them not this upcoming monday, but the following monday, the 2nd. So basically right around new years also. So no, as of now, Andrew does not have the LR rated switches yet. They are the 2.0ohm rated switches. Thats where I got mine.
As far as what the LR switch will be rated to, Ive gotten mixed answers. I was told that they will be rated to use up to 1.25ohm cartos, and then I also heard that they will be rated to use 1.5ohm DCs. Regardless, they will def work with much lower resistances now, and I dont use anything below 1.5ohm anyway so I could care less.
Anoob, I would def put the gold spring into youe E-Power because it could only help with connectivity. I make kind of like a fish hood with the paper clip on the very end and fisk it out. yzer explained it to you well. The switch doesnt actually break, it just isnt rated to use below 2.0ohms. Anything higher will work fine though. Also, if it were me I prob wouldnt order a blue LED one since the white LED LR switches will be available shortly, but thats up to you. There are a few vendors that still sell them,but not many. If you find it I would call the vendor just to make sure the picture/description arnt wrong and its actually the white LED.
Madvapes description does say, Manual switch with Blue LED, but I would still make sure, Heres the link
e-Power Replacement Switch
Like I said before, mine is still working with the Ressurectors. Ive been using them on the new switch the last 2 days and right now they are still working. Im afraid my switch will stop working though since thats what seemed to happen to other people. I dont know if it helps, but Ive been using a 14650 IMR hi-drain battery.
Andrew from CCV is going to let me know when the LR switches come in so I wil give a head-up.
As far as what the LR switch will be rated to, Ive gotten mixed answers. I was told that they will be rated to use up to 1.25ohm cartos, and then I also heard that they will be rated to use 1.5ohm DCs. Regardless, they will def work with much lower resistances now, and I dont use anything below 1.5ohm anyway so I could care less.
Anoob, I would def put the gold spring into youe E-Power because it could only help with connectivity. I make kind of like a fish hood with the paper clip on the very end and fisk it out. yzer explained it to you well. The switch doesnt actually break, it just isnt rated to use below 2.0ohms. Anything higher will work fine though. Also, if it were me I prob wouldnt order a blue LED one since the white LED LR switches will be available shortly, but thats up to you. There are a few vendors that still sell them,but not many. If you find it I would call the vendor just to make sure the picture/description arnt wrong and its actually the white LED.
Madvapes description does say, Manual switch with Blue LED, but I would still make sure, Heres the link
e-Power Replacement Switch
Like I said before, mine is still working with the Ressurectors. Ive been using them on the new switch the last 2 days and right now they are still working. Im afraid my switch will stop working though since thats what seemed to happen to other people. I dont know if it helps, but Ive been using a 14650 IMR hi-drain battery.
Andrew from CCV is going to let me know when the LR switches come in so I wil give a head-up.
Thanks for the info guys. Ill post back and update if mine has any problems. For now I will just keep a full clearomizer with me incase my switch starts having probelms.
rob- thanks, and I will go ahead and wait for the newest switches to come out.
rob- thanks, and I will go ahead and wait for the newest switches to come out.
Im actually really ...... about there being no note or anything on the products webpage of the epower about the crappy switch. I would of never ordered one for my wife and had 3 (yes, three) of my real life friends order epower from there.
Ive only just now talked to one of the friends, he thought his epower was broken. Im really ticked and totally embarrassed to have recommended them.
I have talked to Bret, he seems like hes really patient and a decent dude.
I feel straight up ripped off.
People, if your products are possibly different than expected. Note it on your website ffs.
Partially just venting here.
Cant wait for new switches to come in. I have a blue one from just a couple months ago (ccv) which is why I ended up recommending epower to begin with.
Smoktech should provide them for free exchange for people with the garbage regulated switch.
Ive only just now talked to one of the friends, he thought his epower was broken. Im really ticked and totally embarrassed to have recommended them.
I have talked to Bret, he seems like hes really patient and a decent dude.
I feel straight up ripped off.
People, if your products are possibly different than expected. Note it on your website ffs.
Partially just venting here.
Cant wait for new switches to come in. I have a blue one from just a couple months ago (ccv) which is why I ended up recommending epower to begin with.
Smoktech should provide them for free exchange for people with the garbage regulated switch.
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ENS still shows blue switches on their web site.
http://www.electronicstix.com/STARTER-KITS/SMOK-E-POWER-KITS/E-POWER-REPLACEMENT-SWITCH-p840.html
http://www.electronicstix.com/STARTER-KITS/SMOK-E-POWER-KITS/E-POWER-REPLACEMENT-SWITCH-p840.html
I started out with with the 2.0 ohm LR XL Smoktech carto sold by Hoosier and switched to the 1.7 ohm LR XL sold by CCV and called the "Resurrector." The "Resurrector" is also a Smoktech carto. Note that Hoosier sells the very same 1.7 LR XL Smoktech carto but they don't call it "Resurrector". I have vaped both the 1.7 and 2.0 ohm LR XL Smoktech cartos and can't tell much difference between the two.
If you want the older blue LED switch for the E-Power 14650 I'd recommend the link at post #32. If you want the E-Power 14650 starter kit call electronicstix first and make sure that they are selling you the blue LED switch module that will handle less than 2.0 ohm LR XL cartos. Otherwise, buy from Hoosier with the 2.0 LR XL cartos because they WILL work with the new white LED switch module.
If you want the older blue LED switch for the E-Power 14650 I'd recommend the link at post #32. If you want the E-Power 14650 starter kit call electronicstix first and make sure that they are selling you the blue LED switch module that will handle less than 2.0 ohm LR XL cartos. Otherwise, buy from Hoosier with the 2.0 LR XL cartos because they WILL work with the new white LED switch module.
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Follow-up to post #21.
I traveled over the holidays with the E-Power 14650 equipped with the new white LED switch module. This unit was fitted with the new TrustFire Blue 14650 battery. It worked on an intermittent basis which is better than it did with the stock Smoktech 14650 battery but overall the performance was much less than what I would consider to be acceptable.
This E-Power 14650 with white LED switch module and brand new TrustFire battery would only work with the 1.7 ohm LR XL "Resurrector" carto if I kept it stowed warm and inside my Levi's pocket. If the PV was allowed to sit out at room temperature (64-68 degrees F.) it would flash fast white and not fire up the carto.
After a day of putting up with this nonsense I just switched over to my back-up E-Power 14650 equipped with the blue LED switch module. It always worked perfectly with the 1.7 ohm LR XL carto.
I traveled over the holidays with the E-Power 14650 equipped with the new white LED switch module. This unit was fitted with the new TrustFire Blue 14650 battery. It worked on an intermittent basis which is better than it did with the stock Smoktech 14650 battery but overall the performance was much less than what I would consider to be acceptable.
This E-Power 14650 with white LED switch module and brand new TrustFire battery would only work with the 1.7 ohm LR XL "Resurrector" carto if I kept it stowed warm and inside my Levi's pocket. If the PV was allowed to sit out at room temperature (64-68 degrees F.) it would flash fast white and not fire up the carto.
After a day of putting up with this nonsense I just switched over to my back-up E-Power 14650 equipped with the blue LED switch module. It always worked perfectly with the 1.7 ohm LR XL carto.
Yzer - I think the switches and batteries from smoktech very on qualitly a bit from what I have been reading on the forums.
I have been using my epower for a few days now without the gold spring, I'm to lazy to change it right now, and the smoktech batteries that came with the kit from ccv and I have only been using the 1.7 ohms cartos too. On rare occasions I have to unscrew and screw the battery tube a bit to stop it from flashing and not firing up. But I have noticed after about a day the problem happens a lot more, so I switched to a clearomiser and used it another six hours or so before the battery was dead.
So as of now I guess with my epower switch as long as I charge the batteries after about one day the problem really isn't too bad. Oh and about every 30 presses or so the button sticks on.
Just thought I would update on how mine was working out
I have been using my epower for a few days now without the gold spring, I'm to lazy to change it right now, and the smoktech batteries that came with the kit from ccv and I have only been using the 1.7 ohms cartos too. On rare occasions I have to unscrew and screw the battery tube a bit to stop it from flashing and not firing up. But I have noticed after about a day the problem happens a lot more, so I switched to a clearomiser and used it another six hours or so before the battery was dead.
So as of now I guess with my epower switch as long as I charge the batteries after about one day the problem really isn't too bad. Oh and about every 30 presses or so the button sticks on.
Just thought I would update on how mine was working out
I got an E-power 14650 as an early christmas gift and it's the blue switch one, and I'm not happy with the performance one bit but doubt I can return it for that reason. Infact I'm not even using it right now as my at home piece, I'm back to using my little Riva 510 that out performs my 14650!!! I even got the High Drain 14650's to see if it would help on my dual-coils bit nope, same cruddy performance and airy hits. How hard can It be to make a working switch that can handle LR like it should?
You'd think on the third try they'd get it right. I ordered Resurrectors from ccv and a new spring but I seriously doubt the Resurrectors will permorm any better. It seems to work decent on the atty it came with..I'm just disgruntled that I have to spend all this extra money for something to work like it should outta the box.
You'd think on the third try they'd get it right. I ordered Resurrectors from ccv and a new spring but I seriously doubt the Resurrectors will permorm any better. It seems to work decent on the atty it came with..I'm just disgruntled that I have to spend all this extra money for something to work like it should outta the box.
...absolutely amazing!!!! I have the E, got it from CCV, has the hard plastic, blue LED button...also bought an extra button and body/cone from parts to build a second one...exclusively use the 1.7ohm cartos and have had exactly 0 problems with either...I vape 4-5ml juice daily and with my Rivas, I would be on the 3rd batt before bed...using the generic 14650 in the E, I get 10-12 solid hrs of vape time...I guess, I would rather be lucky any time..........
madjack
p.s. also be aware, dual coils just don't work that well on 3.7v devices as compared to other LR gear...dual coils split the wattage between the two coils and give a cooler/weaker vape comparatively...my E-Power, with the Resurrectors just plain rock...as always, YMMV..........mj
madjack
p.s. also be aware, dual coils just don't work that well on 3.7v devices as compared to other LR gear...dual coils split the wattage between the two coils and give a cooler/weaker vape comparatively...my E-Power, with the Resurrectors just plain rock...as always, YMMV..........mj
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I got an email from Brent at Hoosier today. Brent now has a few of the very latest new replacement switch modules. I you purchased a defective white LED switch from Hoosier in an E-Power 14650 kit or as a separate replacement part contact Brent at Hoosier and he will replace it with the new switch module at no cost to you.
That product listing was not correct. I ordered two of the switches when they were described as "Manual switch with Blue LED" and what I got were white LED switches. I contacted Electronicstix, they immediately corrected the listing on their website and agreed to a refund upon return of the switches.
Lesson: website listings can be out of date and not accurately describe current stock.
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