It is actually different than VV and does away with having to adjust voltage to match different cartos.
The Echo Thread
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It is actually different than VV and does away with having to adjust voltage to match different cartos.
We should get a petition going and send to relevant vendors:
Release a damn 808 VV tube mod that's a reasonable size with an auto option already!!!!
signed....
et al.
Release a damn 808 VV tube mod that's a reasonable size with an auto option already!!!!
signed....
et al.
Oh, now that I look more carefully at the description, I see that. It's a step up on the technology scale. Only a veteran lineman would catch that subtle but important difference.
So I guess it is a drop-in VW module?
What's that mean? Variable Wattage? Does it adjust resistance? We are way off topic of the thread but I'm curious.
Yes. Variable Wattage. Volts squared divided by Ohms = Watts. We often talk about voltage because it is convenient. But in vaping, wattage is what really matters.
I will stop here and let the experts chime in. Else I will get in over my head and sound like an idiot.
JJ
Sorry we kind of derailed the thread but new Echo users can skip this part because it doesn't have anything to do with Echo unless you use your echo carto on a mod as I sometimes do.
Like Goldenkobold said some people adjust voltage according to the juice. It is harder to change the wattage on these than the VV being as you have to adjust with screwdriver. Most people find what their sweetspot is say 8.75 watts and just leave it there and no matter what carto you use it will always be the same. Kind of boring though I guess. lol I just wanted to pick one up to use in one of my mods that is just sitting there and turn a 50.00 mod into a 250.00 Darwin kind of anyway. I'm sure I will still use my Echo Kuwako most of the time anyways like I do now with my two Lava's sitting there. I do have my mini-lava on a lanyard to hit every now and then but use my Echo Kuwako most of the time. I know I know I need help. lol But it is fun!
Like Goldenkobold said some people adjust voltage according to the juice. It is harder to change the wattage on these than the VV being as you have to adjust with screwdriver. Most people find what their sweetspot is say 8.75 watts and just leave it there and no matter what carto you use it will always be the same. Kind of boring though I guess. lol I just wanted to pick one up to use in one of my mods that is just sitting there and turn a 50.00 mod into a 250.00 Darwin kind of anyway. I'm sure I will still use my Echo Kuwako most of the time anyways like I do now with my two Lava's sitting there. I do have my mini-lava on a lanyard to hit every now and then but use my Echo Kuwako most of the time. I know I know I need help. lol But it is fun!
That seems more practical to just set the wattage vs setting the voltage. So that means that if you switch resistance whether with different hardware or whether the carto is getting old, the unit will automatically adjust to keep it in your sweet spot?
when we talk about the coil in a carto being off center. do we mean that its scrunched to one side as in the wick would be longer on one side of the tube than the other. Or do we mean that the whole coil is pushed to one side but the wicks would be equal length. I hope this makes sense to someone I am having a horrible time over here. I keep getting a harsh burn type feel on the exhale, different juices different cartos. Right now only two of my cartos are not giving it. Flavor is fine and it doesn't taste burnt...and they are full. And the two that are not giving it are actually a month old, never cleaned.
I should mention that I have no clue what exactly is causing this, but a new carto i filled today had it. And it wasnt going away from breaking it in. So i looked at the coil and it seemed to be off to one side a bit (looking like the end of the coil was closer to the side opposite of the the other side of the coil) So i pushed it back center and the taste is gone, but it seems to crackle like a boge and wont fire if all the way screwed in.
so im trying to find out if the coil is my issue or if i should just leave it alone. Going to try another new carto later.
I should mention that I have no clue what exactly is causing this, but a new carto i filled today had it. And it wasnt going away from breaking it in. So i looked at the coil and it seemed to be off to one side a bit (looking like the end of the coil was closer to the side opposite of the the other side of the coil) So i pushed it back center and the taste is gone, but it seems to crackle like a boge and wont fire if all the way screwed in.
so im trying to find out if the coil is my issue or if i should just leave it alone. Going to try another new carto later.
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Your own observations are key in all of this. I've never has one that didn't fire when it was screwed on all the way. Sounds like you got the coil off the center tube but may have disrupted an end on the wire. Unfortunately I don't know how to check without taking it apart. I took one apart again tonight. The wires didn't appear to be soldered. I've been noticing that all my center posts seem to be able to spin around freely so it appears that one is just touching the center post and the other end is tucked in between the rubber and thread part...no solder. All I can say is that, if each end if the wire is where it should be, your echo should be firing fine.
Did you go in from the bottom or the top?
snicker......ahem.
Did you go in from the bottom or the top?
snicker......ahem.
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Correct, this is how the Darwin and Kick work.
edit: However, in my experience there are other factors than just power.
I like single coils at a lower total wattage than I like dual coils, I like 901's at a higher wattage than 306's juice being equal. I like 100% VG at a much lower wattage than PG or VG/PG mixes, It is one of the reasons I never really liked the first generation screw driver required VV mods from a couple of years ago...the whole point of a VV is that you vary it depending on equipment and juice.
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To clarify.....it looks like they are using the rubber only to keep the ends apart and keep them in place. One end is tucked between the post and rubber sleeve and the other end is tucked on the outside between the rubber and the threading.
Sorry.....Goldenkobold snuck in between my posts. This one links to the one I have above. Thank you though, Gold.
Sorry.....Goldenkobold snuck in between my posts. This one links to the one I have above. Thank you though, Gold.
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I went in mostly from the top and a little from the bottom lol. wasnt able to do much from the bottom, so maybe thats when i snaggeed something.
I understand what you are talking about with the wires as i took one apart last night. [Actually I had to go and take apart a little further! but Now i know what you are saying. I might be able to take it apart, check it, and maybe fix it and possible reassemble. But i haven't tried putting one back together yet.
I'm at an either or stage with my other harsh cartos, either the carto is burned out, or the coil is not in the right position, at this point I've got nothing to lose with those cartos so i will try to center the coil on one and take apart the other to get a closer look.
I have even tried burning the glue form the first carto I took apart to see if the harshness was the glue burning, but that wasn't it, the glue just kind of turns to ash at high heat with no super menacing fumes.
AND THANKS for your reply...its very hard to put coil orientation into words for me wish i had a macro camera to post pics
I understand what you are talking about with the wires as i took one apart last night. [Actually I had to go and take apart a little further! but Now i know what you are saying. I might be able to take it apart, check it, and maybe fix it and possible reassemble. But i haven't tried putting one back together yet.
I'm at an either or stage with my other harsh cartos, either the carto is burned out, or the coil is not in the right position, at this point I've got nothing to lose with those cartos so i will try to center the coil on one and take apart the other to get a closer look.
I have even tried burning the glue form the first carto I took apart to see if the harshness was the glue burning, but that wasn't it, the glue just kind of turns to ash at high heat with no super menacing fumes.
AND THANKS for your reply...its very hard to put coil orientation into words for me wish i had a macro camera to post pics
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I still see and think now, that seeing as wattage is the ultimate goal, it would make more sense to tune in to that. Even more so if it can be easily adjusted. I guess we don't have that as much because it must be easier/cheaper to adjust voltage. It's essentially what I do now, using different resistance on particular devices and juices. Voltage is always just part of an equation but wattage is always a singular outcome. Be easier to keep track of when I know that I like one thing at X instead of remembering that I liked it at Y+Z
Yeah.....I'm about to give up on the last batch and revive some of my older ones. They've been sitting at the ready for over a week now as I tried to figure these ones out and at the same time I got my iTurbos. The one I pulled apart had the inner filler all scrunched at the bottom. I know I don't poke holes near that (already learned that lesson) so because it's all scruntched up, it may be contributing to the wicking issues. I'm really going to have to get this rebuild down so I can pull them apart and rewrap them. I'm still blaming these on a newbie at the factory not wrapping them correctly. Haha.
Is there any reason why I cant take the filler out of a SC then pop off the bottom base from the housing and adjust the coil then rewrap the inner and outer filler then slide the housing over the insides? Seems easier than the straw and i can get in real close and personal with the coil.
You can try. If you can separate the base from the housing, let me know. Only thing I could do was remove the center post.
Oh I have already done it! I take the filler out and then insert a flat head screwdriver to the base and tap on it with a little hammer until it pops out a bit. Then i push it out using the screw driver and elbow grease. It takes a lot of strength but if i had a table mounted clamp, or even a c clamp i could probably do it better, i have only been holding everything in my hands.
I just didnt put it back together because the wick was almost ash. I also decided that if the glue was an issue i could scrape it out and replace it with my own, but i dont think it is a problem.
my base did not bend or anything, but it might using the limited tools i have. Im sure using a metal pipe instad of a screwdriver would be better and safer.
If you can do that, then you might as well get your own wire and completely rebuild these.
-And then let me know what wire you used and how many coils you made to get it to a perfect 2.8 ohm. You'd be my hero!
-And then let me know what wire you used and how many coils you made to get it to a perfect 2.8 ohm. You'd be my hero!
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H
HA! that was my next question as i was able to completely uncoil my wick with the wire in tact. Ill have to look more into this..and ACTUALLY have my engineering buddy come over. Hes a mechanical engineer but he studied electrical as well.
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