My sealed is already lined up as well. Perhaps all they did to "improve" the draw on the battery was turn the center post. Still curious as to why the new batch of DCCs are tighter, I don't have any yet though.
The Echo Thread
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My hole was certainly not aligned. If you call the two post holes 6 and 12 o clock the post hole was at 3 on the ....
GOt some "old" batch single and dual coils coming to me from cropduster
Also got some wick, coil, LR 510 fluxos and a special cut 808 adaptor courtesy of badkolo at gotvapes on the way
Also got some wick, coil, LR 510 fluxos and a special cut 808 adaptor courtesy of badkolo at gotvapes on the way
Five minutes ago i figured out how to mod an adapter to work without the slot! looks like im too late to help you lol. A cut one should be better though. But theres two ways to do what i just did.
1) pull out the metal center 808 post in the adapter (while keeping the rubber piece in the adapter) and replace it with a center post from a dead 808 carto that has a slot. This works better with a dead smaller 808 carto as the echo's post is much longer than the adapters original post, but either one will work.
2) simply pull out the center post of the adapter and REMOVE the rubber piece, then replace the center post WITHOUT any rubber piece. it will tighten up to form the connection when you screw on the battery and a 510 carto. This method uses the same unslotted center post from the adapter, but the extra room created from removing the rubber allows the needed airflow.
Both work, the first one would be ideal, but on my first adapter both the center piece and the rubber came out so then i found out you dont even need the rubber piece. Also, i have not fully tried yet, but getting the rubber back in if you did not mean to take it out appears tricky.
Let me know if anyone tries this and if it works for you!
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Great, I have a 'dead' sealed gen2 KR8 - so I'll give it a try tonight.
Btw, how do you pull it out? Using pliers? Will let you know if it works.
I did a long edit of my post with more explanation, but i lost it due to a spotty net connection.
I just use a pair of tweezers. But its the center post from the cartomizer that you use and take out. This is the part that is on the battery connection end of the carto. It is in the center and is the piece that connects to the center battery post on the battery. On my echo cartos and my other 808 horizontals it is not glued or soldered on so it comes off easy.
needle nose pliers would also work. Oh and the whole post is about a 808 battery to 510 threaded adapter on a sealed auto battery like the newer version echos.
Yes. Also thinking about 901 atomizer. I didn't know the post could be removed, now that I know... Thanks!
Interesting find on nhaler. Here is their reply regarding my questions about the IGo crystal clearo....
"Hi,
The Ohms are 2.6 to 2.8...They will not screw on our Echos (which are Auto batteries) and they have a different thread, but some companies call the Igo the Echo...They do leave a small gap on the Riva 901 ( about a 16th of an inch) as they dont screw completely on.."
"Hi,
The Ohms are 2.6 to 2.8...They will not screw on our Echos (which are Auto batteries) and they have a different thread, but some companies call the Igo the Echo...They do leave a small gap on the Riva 901 ( about a 16th of an inch) as they dont screw completely on.."
So what are our LR Cartomizer options exactly?
1) DCC echo mixer (about to be ruined by the revised release)
2) 2.4 ohm fluxomizer XL (doesn't quite look right)
3) 2.2 ohm ego stardust with modded adaptor (would look close to right)
4) wire your own
5) ..........
We need more not even necessarily native 808 LR options that look nice
1) DCC echo mixer (about to be ruined by the revised release)
2) 2.4 ohm fluxomizer XL (doesn't quite look right)
3) 2.2 ohm ego stardust with modded adaptor (would look close to right)
4) wire your own
5) ..........
We need more not even necessarily native 808 LR options that look nice
(edit reply do to misread....comments deleted)
I've played with that center post idea that SLEL is doing. I hadn't posted anything because I got it to work for a 510 adapter but not for 901s yet. Still something more to it beyond just having a slot. Maybe I should play around with a 901 atty and see if I can just swap out the center post.......
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ok....so with a standard 901 to 808 adapter 901 Battery to 801 Atomizer adapterI simply pulled out the post and reversed it. The 901 atty had a center post that would just not come out but it's way up now. Apparently on my first attempt the post of the 901 just wasn't making good contact with the adapter.
It's a great day for the echo...........good job!
edit....I was having trouble with 2 out of 3 901 atty's. I think the center posts just wouldn't come up far enough. I pulled them up as far as I dared and just left them crooked. It worked both times. So now I'm looking to see if I have a longer center post that is slotted on one end for this adapter.
It's a great day for the echo...........good job!
edit....I was having trouble with 2 out of 3 901 atty's. I think the center posts just wouldn't come up far enough. I pulled them up as far as I dared and just left them crooked. It worked both times. So now I'm looking to see if I have a longer center post that is slotted on one end for this adapter.
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That turned out amazingly easy for me but I still haven't been able to get the tube off the base of the Stardust style carto.
Errol
That turned out amazingly easy for me but I still haven't been able to get the tube off the base of the Stardust style carto.
Errol
Are you working with the 808 or 510 version? The new 510 versions are trickier to get apart.
With the 808, you screw it onto an echo. Hold the echo as close to the stardust as you can so you don't wind up wiggling the seal on the battery. Grab the plastic of the stardust and wiggle away. The plastic slids out of the metal band. getting it back in takes some patience and the guts to bang it on a table a few times.
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You can always use 510 LR cartos with your new adapter, and to make it look better, once you have a dead echo carto you can gut it and use it as a cone, a standard boge carto comes out of the cone just a bit which makes a good mouthpiece type feel. I have two cones now, i think one was from a DCC and one was SC and i want to say the SC fits securely around the silver ring, but im really not sure which is which anymore.
The draw with the cone is a little tight so you may have to punch a hole in it if you do this.
Good News! The hammer method is OUT and the wiggle wiggle wiggle method is IN!!
I have not tried it on my iturbo yet, but out of curiosity i tried it on an echomizer i had already taken apart and reassembled. It worked easily and FAST. Then i decided to try it on one that had never been taken apart. It takes a little more force but worked just as well.
The method is the exact same as Charlz describes for the iturbos. Screw it on the battery, grasp battery as close as possible to the carto, and wiggle it back and forth (very firmly and rather slowly), then its off! You will start to feel it give a little, which feels like you are breaking something but that is it starting to move, a little more pushing and pulling in opposite directions (as that is what wiggling is) and its off!
Never been a better time than NOW to try to dissemble an echomizer! I really hope others try it and have success. If this is not a fluke it is one step closer to the echomizer being a completely tool-less rebuild-able cartomizer. All it seems to need is wick and wire. My wick is on the way, need to figure out what gauge the thin wire the echos use is, and where to get it.
Final note/tip: much like taking apart the echomizer in general it is important to BELIEVE this method will work as you are trying it. I tried it before the hammer method and was unsuccessful, but now it works like a charm.
EDIT: I believe the cartos i just took apart were all single coil, this could be making it easier as the single coils have a much thinner/shorter bottom metal base when compared to the Duals
EDIT of the EDIT: actually both new cartos i took apart were single coils with the 3 ringed cup shaped base
I have not tried it on my iturbo yet, but out of curiosity i tried it on an echomizer i had already taken apart and reassembled. It worked easily and FAST. Then i decided to try it on one that had never been taken apart. It takes a little more force but worked just as well.
The method is the exact same as Charlz describes for the iturbos. Screw it on the battery, grasp battery as close as possible to the carto, and wiggle it back and forth (very firmly and rather slowly), then its off! You will start to feel it give a little, which feels like you are breaking something but that is it starting to move, a little more pushing and pulling in opposite directions (as that is what wiggling is) and its off!
Never been a better time than NOW to try to dissemble an echomizer! I really hope others try it and have success. If this is not a fluke it is one step closer to the echomizer being a completely tool-less rebuild-able cartomizer. All it seems to need is wick and wire. My wick is on the way, need to figure out what gauge the thin wire the echos use is, and where to get it.
Final note/tip: much like taking apart the echomizer in general it is important to BELIEVE this method will work as you are trying it. I tried it before the hammer method and was unsuccessful, but now it works like a charm.
EDIT: I believe the cartos i just took apart were all single coil, this could be making it easier as the single coils have a much thinner/shorter bottom metal base when compared to the Duals
EDIT of the EDIT: actually both new cartos i took apart were single coils with the 3 ringed cup shaped base
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There are some echomizers I can barely get apart with a hammer. Some have 3 orings some have two, some have a recessed base where the air tube gets glued, some have a flat base. Some have to be hammered till the cows come home. But I will try the wiggle method first from now on. All my echomizers, I don't put them on completely tight so I always leave a little wiggle room. HAHA.
When I order new echomizers, I'll try wiggling first.
Have a 510 echomizer that will not give. The skirt must be glued. I never liked it. Would be nice to see if it could be improved.
When I order new echomizers, I'll try wiggling first.
Have a 510 echomizer that will not give. The skirt must be glued. I never liked it. Would be nice to see if it could be improved.
I'd like to develop a press type method of extraction with a c-clamp type set up but cant envision exactly how to get around just pressing the base back in at the same time i am trying to push it out using just a clamp and a dowel type instrument. But i thought i read others using it that way for pushing things out. And in a video for taking apart the new stardusts they hammer a metal tube into the base on a flat hard surface and that works so..maybe im not taking into account some factor of physics here. Will be picking up a c clamp soon as it would be a sure fire way to get these apart with ease and could be used to press them back together.
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Vapor Girl has stealth echo batteries auto in black sold by the battery now! 1100 and 1300 Echo Stealth Battery Electronic Cigarette
Mine. Even though I said my next battery has to be stainless.
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