So in this approach, you dissemble the carto to the point of just having the center tube with wick and coil in it on the base, then remove the coil and center post and silicone through the bottom, then clean/dry burn coil on a separate base as to not damage the original center tube. then you would re-insert the coil up through the bottom of the original base into the center tube, center, and place wick in proper place and then just reassemble like normal. Right? (or are you saying to take out the coil and put it back in without popping out the inner filler and all? That seems trickier/impossible but would be ideal i think.)
When you speak about the the base getting in while not scrunching the silicon, do you mean the metal center post or...??
Seems solid, as long as you don't damage the coil on the way back in.
I took out the filler, but if you can get just the coil out, that would be good. Still anytime it's off, I like to check the inner wrap for burn marks. And the filler would need to come out anyway to readjust the wick after.
The first time I tried getting the whole assembly in, the whole ting was just tight and the silicon didn't want to pop through and the center post just went in a crooked. I haven't had that problem again.
As a new development that I haven't brought up and I don't know why, I've noticed on single coils, I can just pop off the shell and the filler stays wrapped inside the shell. I can just fluff the wick and give the coil a quick peek and pop the whole thing back on. You have to watch that the inner filler stays put as it can catch on the tube sometimes. I now pop it off and drip a few drops on the inner filler when it's time for a top off. Not too much or it will over wick and drip.
If the filler is wet, it stays put more and sometimes you need to widen the hole with a screw driver so the tube slides back in easy.
This will also come in handy for when I decide to make my own coils and wicks.....filler stays in and the new assembly gets popped in the bottom.
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