The Future???
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From what I've heard, the anodization will need to be removed in a spot for the Kick's groundpost to contact. Anodized metal isn't conductive? Is this step actually necessary?
I don't know if Rob has mentioned the Kick. Brendan did say that Rob was given a unit to beta test but I don't know if Rob has had time to play with it with everything else that he has on his plate. Brendan also said that Evolv will be selling a unit that moders can use to put into their mods. THis will have solder points on it for adding various functions that the modder might want to use in their own creations.
Dave I can't say for sure if this is true but I think removing the anodizing would have to be done to complete the connection. I think the connection on the mini and Grand is made through the spring but only where the screw that holds the spring and the body meet..the threaded part.
What would the Kick do that the VV REO won't do, are they the same sort of thing?
Rob told me he had his Kick beta unit up and running in one of his annodized Grands in less than 10 minutes. He did have to remove the annodizing where the ground thingie makes contact with the mod.
Evolv will sell The Kick's circuit board to modders if they want to build them into their mods. I'm guessing that's why Rob received a beta unit. No doubt that Rob could do it if he chooses, but thats his call.
A tumbled Grand with an IMR 18490 and the retail version of The Kick would be a fabulous combo, in my opinion.
Evolv will sell The Kick's circuit board to modders if they want to build them into their mods. I'm guessing that's why Rob received a beta unit. No doubt that Rob could do it if he chooses, but thats his call.
A tumbled Grand with an IMR 18490 and the retail version of The Kick would be a fabulous combo, in my opinion.
Similar, but not the same.
The VV Reos will provide a set voltage to your atty/carto. You'll have to take care to match the voltage to the resistance of the atty/carto. That is, don't slap on a 1.5 ohm single coil atty and try to push +5 volts thru it.
The Kick controls the wattage to the atty/carto and reads the resistance of the atty/carto and adjusts accordingly. If you set The Kick to 8 watts, it will give you 8 watts on a LR, SR, or HV atty/carto.
That's my understanding, anyway.
Similar, yet different. VV is variable voltage, adjusted depending on the atty for the desired output. The Kick is variable wattage, so the wattage is the same no matter which atty you use.
Example, you pop your 1.5 atty, and only have a 2 ohm atty left. With VV, you will have to readjust to the 2 ohm to get the same output manually. With the Kick, you'd just screw the 2 ohm in and it would adjust itself to the new resistance, for the same wattage output automatically.
Edit: Mudflap was quicker on the draw than me!!! hehe
I don't know if the rules are the same in this environment, but whenever I've beta tested software and cigarettes (yes, I've beta tested smokes. I was part of the Bright market research in the 80's), I've had to sign non-disclosure agreements and was not allowed to discuss the product until the beta was complete. Rob may be under the same constraints.
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Similar, but not the same.
The VV Reos will provide a set voltage to your atty/carto. You'll have to take care to match the voltage to the resistance of the atty/carto. That is, don't slap on a 1.5 ohm single coil atty and try to push +5 volts thru it.
The Kick controls the wattage to the atty/carto and reads the resistance of the atty/carto and adjusts accordingly. If you set The Kick to 8 watts, it will give you 8 watts on a LR, SR, or HV atty/carto.
That's my understanding, anyway.
Exactly, its the brains of a Darwin without the Darwin, nice explanation guys
They're allowed to speak in "general terms" about it but not go into tons of detail. It's brilliant marketing on Evolv's part.
Rob's just a busy beaver, but I'll bet he's giving it a workout while he's mod shucking.
On a VV device once your batterys go bellow the voltage that you want it won't work. That is why you stack batteries and end up starting out around 7.4 v and set your voltage on the devise to whateve voltage you want.
The kick will lower or raise the voltage output of the batterys so one battery can be used. 3.7 volts can be made to run at 5 volts or 3 volts, up or down. THe voltage is regulated to make the attys run at a constant wattage. It will put out that wattage until the battery is worn down to about 3.2 volts at which time it won't operate.
It looks like the Kick will output 10 watts max but perhaps the final maybe 10.5 but not 11 or 12 from what I have heard.
The kick will lower or raise the voltage output of the batterys so one battery can be used. 3.7 volts can be made to run at 5 volts or 3 volts, up or down. THe voltage is regulated to make the attys run at a constant wattage. It will put out that wattage until the battery is worn down to about 3.2 volts at which time it won't operate.
It looks like the Kick will output 10 watts max but perhaps the final maybe 10.5 but not 11 or 12 from what I have heard.
That would stink since my sweet spot seems right around 11-12 watts
Take heart. With dual coil attys/cartos, a lower wattage might just hit your sweet spot.
Interesting concept with the Kick and REO combo. Does the kick have a protection circuit? Like on a Buzz Pro (which the VV REO will be having the same guts). Or will it be a regulated VV device? IMO if it's a regulated VV and Rob was to incorporate it in the VV REO. Then I wouldn't mind getting my hands on one of those since I hate 2.5a circuited VV mods personally.
The Kick will have protection circuitry. The max wattage will prevent over discharging the battery and it will cut off when the battery is drained to 3.2 volts. If I'm remembering Brandon's interviews and what I've read, that is.
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