The iHybrid APV - A fully Customizable Genesis

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LadyStrick9

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Faceless I just cannot believe what you have done with these. They are awesome my Friend, and there is always going to be people who complain about "Not getting what they wanted" Look at em like a Two year old. Put em in the corner for throwing a fit and ignore them. They will get it eventually LOL. Keep up the great work my Friend and Kudos for some very impressive PV's with extreme creativity :D
Sincerely;
Nate

Now THAT'S the graciousness and positive feedback that Faceless needs :) Well said Nate! Welcome, BTW :)

Can't be done unfortunately. I wanted my design to be white but I got the boot lol. Here is a brief description why....

The anodic layer is also very porous as it comes out of the bath. Because of this porosity, it will absorb and hold dyes and colors well. The piece is usually colored simply by dipping it in a vat of concentrated dye for several minutes. Once the piece has been dyed, it is sealed, simply by immersing it in clean, boiling water for several more minutes. This process, because of the porosity of the oxide, hydrates the crystalline layer, which swells the oxide, closing the pores, sealing the dye within. Because the layer is so thin, the dye must be heavily concentrated, and even then, the color will be somewhat translucent. This is what gives the color anodizing its characteristic metallic sheen; the shiny base aluminum shows through the color. Because of this semi-transparency, the piece cannot be anodized white; the aluminum would show through, giving a light grey color.

Stacy...I'm pretty sure I saved the post that had this info...but I can't find it. You mind telling me where this info came from so I can include the contributor in the links? Thanks!

Time for a real quick reality check as the way some of these discussions are going and with some of the new people in the thread some of the combinations being suggested are going to lead to a disaster.

The combinations of using low wraps of 28 or twisted 28 and the wrong battery are going to get someone really hurt. After reading the last 50-100 pages it's become pretty apparent that a lot of people don't know what they're playing with and the consequences of these experiments.

Batteries, especially non IMR batteries that people keep mentioning do very bad things when over drawn. AW's may vent, Lipo based batteries blow up when stressed. If you don't understand constant battery amp draws and general battery stress don't do sub 1ohm coils.

This isn't a scare tactic. A lot of people would be extremely surprised how much damage a 700mah battery going thermal can do, especially a few inches from your face.

YES! I was hoping you would address this discussion EZ, thanks! In fact, I think it's SO VERY important for folks to be educated, I put a separate section in the iHybrid Reference Links spreadsheet to include Hazards/Warnings, etc. It will be a day or two before it's complete....but, in my mind, necessary.
 
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9ball_AJ

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I currently don't have a multimeter but will get one ASAP. For now what would be a safe setup to run 400g mesh, 30g kanthal, and 18350 battery be without blowing up my face. Would a 3/4 wrap be safe of should i step it up a level?

I use a 3/4 wrap of 30g at ~1.1-1.3 ohms with an 18350. It is my favorite setup and well within the limits of an AW IMR 18350.
 

Ezkill

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I currently don't have a multimeter but will get one ASAP. For now what would be a safe setup to run 400g mesh, 30g kanthal, and 18350 battery be without blowing up my face. Would a 3/4 wrap be safe of should i step it up a level?

3/4 wrap is well within the limits of even a 350. That's a 1.4-1.6ohm coil which is about half the amp draw of a 350. The danger is sub 1ohm coils as the amp draw scales very quickly. Once you start pushing 7 amps, you are into a danger zone on a 350. I'm of course only talking about IMR batteries. With other batteries everything I said is no longer true. I wouldn't even fire a coil a non IMR, personally.

Yes I've tried some extreme stuff too so the last rant wasn't a soap box rant. The difference is I know the consequences, I meter everything and I fire more extreme stuff with a MNKE battery that can handle 30 AMPS. Some people are firing extreme stuff with batteries that can't even handle 3-4 AMPS, and that's the problem. Mix extreme, thick wire coils, that don't break on bad shorts with bad batteries and you have the potential for some very expensive dental surgery.
 

j4mmin42

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Thanks Nancy!

It's a good idea to use the vape safe or one of the similar products in addition to the IMR cells. All it is is a PTC thermal fuse, most will trip at 5-6 amps of current and prevent the bad juju. Once the current is removed it will reset and work again. They are cheap and provide a second level of safety.

I have a shortstop on the way, I recommend these- especially with IMR batts because there is no on-board protection.

I rebuilt to a near-6 wrap of 28, and it is actually producing more vapor- larger surface area, maybe? Either way, this battery is getting low and it's still throwing out lots of vapor!
 

~Shado~

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Another thing to keep in mind....the number of wraps WILL vary between users...simply due to the fact that not all wicks are rolled the same and vary in size.

What may be a great 3/4 wrap for one person...may in fact turn out to be a MUCH lower ohm set up for another.

Example...
- I roll a 95mm mesh and I wrap a 3/2 coil, but it still puts me into the 1.2 - 1.3 ohm range on one iHy...
- and on a another one, with more mesh....a 3/4 wrap puts me in the .9 - 1.1 ohm range
---same guage wire, but....different end ohm results..

Folks need to be more aware of their own setups and what they are in fact using at that moment.
 

SyncA

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Lol "An 18350" wich brand? Technology?

An 18350 has a max safe continuous amperage draw of 5.6amps. 7 amps may not cause it to burst, but it will have detrimental effects on battery longevity. If you were to have a bad short or a stuck switch you greatly risk a runaway thermal chain reaction from your battery.
 

izdalion

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As I don't have a IHy but I do have a RBA I have to agree that people really need to do there research. In my case I read(red) everything I could about RBA's and safety about RBA's way before I started. I personally am a fiddler so I know to "measure twice cut once" lol But I see a whole lot of vapers and very noob vapers jump into the non-protected and RBA game because they are easy accessible now and it's SCARY!!!!
So please people RESEARCH! RESEARCH! RESEARCH! and EDUCATE SAFETY!
 

Devonmoonshire

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Now THAT'S the graciousness and positive feedback that Faceless needs :) Well said Nate! Welcome, BTW :)

YES! I was hoping you would address this discussion EZ, thanks! In fact, I think it's SO VERY important for folks to be educated, I put a separate section in the iHybrid Reference Links spreadsheet to include Hazards/Warnings, etc. It will be a day or two before it's complete....but, in my mind, necessary.

Thank you so much LadyStrick9 :D Yes I saw that these were being made in a 9/11 Tribute Edition and I knew exactly what I wanted to do if I ever got one :D I think it not only honors one of my Best Friends but also the hard work and meticulous care Faceless puts into his work as well.

Yes EZKill does a great job of pulling folks into the reality of what we are doing, especially those who have had less experience with rebuildable atomizers. They are cool but they are not toys, there are severe consequences if care is not taken. My Standard DID is set up with a 4/5 wrap of 30 AWG Kanthal on a 31 x 80mm wick, (yes my wicks are short and leave about a 1/4 inch between the bottom of the wick and the bottom of the tank so absolutely no chance of a short on the bottom exists with these set ups), and it hits perfectly at 1.4 ohms on a wick that almost fits snug in the wick hole.



It is an Honor to own one of these and I very much look forward to having it forever :D

Sincerely;
Nate
 

LadyStrick9

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I have a shortstop on the way, I recommend these- especially with IMR batts because there is no on-board protection.

I rebuilt to a near-6 wrap of 28, and it is actually producing more vapor- larger surface area, maybe? Either way, this battery is getting low and it's still throwing out lots of vapor!

Does anyone have a link to these safety products?
 

SyncA

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AW IMR 18350

Specifications:
Nominal Voltage : 3.7V
Capacity : 700mAH
Lowest Discharge Voltage : 2.50V
Standard Charge : CC/CV ( max. charging rate 1.5A )
Cycle Life : > 500 cycles
Max. continuous discharge rate : 8C

Ok so at 5.6Amps that's a .66 Ohm coil. Giving you 20 Watts.
 

BoyNamedStacy

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Stacy...I'm pretty sure I saved the post that had this info...but I can't find it. You mind telling me where this info came from so I can include the contributor in the links?

You bet Lady! This is probably the best "anodizing" description/information I have run across. I even learned a thing or two! :D http://www.docsmachine.com/tech/anod.html

Where would we be without you! Thanks for all you do for the community. Your compiled list is not only impressive, it's also very valuable info to have all in one spot. Thanks girl! :)
 
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