The Infected Mod Or
- Thread starter MikeyNY
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I love my Infected, have had it a long time no issues. Vaping with a mech is a different animal than a regulated device.
If you want more clouds, instead of taking a draw, gently blow into the Atty first, then draw. It will sorta prime everything up for ya.
If you want more clouds, instead of taking a draw, gently blow into the Atty first, then draw. It will sorta prime everything up for ya.
Thanks papergoblin. So if I want more power (higher wattage) I'm better off with a regulated mod?
Don't get me wrong, I've been vaping on the infected mod all day and like it but to me it Vapes pretty much the same as the aspire CF mod which is more than 1/2 the price..
Don't get me wrong, I've been vaping on the infected mod all day and like it but to me it Vapes pretty much the same as the aspire CF mod which is more than 1/2 the price..
If you drip, you'll see ,to me, where a mech shines. The vape will start cool then get warm, on most of my liquids I get different flavors as the coil warms.
If you want more power, the only option is vw device. A mech is only going to put out what the battery has, using the resistance of the coil.
The CF only goes to 4.8 V max output and is vv not vw. The CF will only give .6V more than a fully charged mech, since a mech's max voltage out is 4.2
If you want more power, the only option is vw device. A mech is only going to put out what the battery has, using the resistance of the coil.
The CF only goes to 4.8 V max output and is vv not vw. The CF will only give .6V more than a fully charged mech, since a mech's max voltage out is 4.2
Careful with mech mod, especially if you are super sub ohming...
Make sure your battery is good too.
Make sure your battery is good too.
I'm using an Efest battery with the Atlantis tank (.5 coil). Is that a good combo?
The CF is like a big ego twist battery. A mech is a mech and regulated is regulated. Two different things for different vaping experiences.
The Infected if used correctly will out live the CF, most any reg device, you and I. There's nothing to break on a mech unless it's abused, where as regulated devices have chips that just like pc or TV. Eventually processors and such just go poof.
Of course a mech used incorrectly can go boom. Research ohms law and batteries before going low, if you haven't already.
The Infected if used correctly will out live the CF, most any reg device, you and I. There's nothing to break on a mech unless it's abused, where as regulated devices have chips that just like pc or TV. Eventually processors and such just go poof.
Of course a mech used incorrectly can go boom. Research ohms law and batteries before going low, if you haven't already.
Yes, like I said, I don't build I sub ohm off of tanks (mostly the Atlantis and Crown). I use Samsung and Efest batteries, so I'm hoping I'll be fine.
That's what I use, stay above 0.3 and you've got a safety margin with 20 amp batteries.
A mech mod is just a container for a battery.
It does not do any "perform"ing.
You the user are the one who has to do the performing by making the right coil and using the right battery.
What would be the best battery in your opinion using an Atlantis & .5 coil?
If you can grab a 35amp battery for future use (you may get into dripping), that would be great.
But your current battery is good enough for your Atlantis and 0.5ohm coil.
If you plan on buying new batteries in the future I suggest MXJO 18650F 2800mah 35A batteries.
They come with authentication scratch on the battery themselves, so that you can verify its authenticity on their website.
But your current battery is good enough for your Atlantis and 0.5ohm coil.
If you plan on buying new batteries in the future I suggest MXJO 18650F 2800mah 35A batteries.
They come with authentication scratch on the battery themselves, so that you can verify its authenticity on their website.
With a mech mod the power (watts) you get is dependent on the resistance of the coil and the voltage of the battery according to Ohm's law. Battery current (amp draw) is also determined this way. Here is a online Ohm's law calculator. Plug in 0.5 ohms and 4.2 volts (a fully charged Li-ion battery) and you get 8.4 amps of battery draw and 35 watts of vape power. As your battery discharges its voltage will go down. Change the voltage in the calculator to 3.7 and you'll see that the amp draw goes down to 7.4 and the power to 27 watts. You should not let battery voltage go below about 3 volts. I aim to swap batteries at around 3.6-3.7V. If you let the battery voltage go below 2.5V the battery will be damaged and not as safe as before. It's up to you to make sure you do not pull too much current from your battery and make it unsafe.
These batteries will be very close to 4.2V when fully charged and will go down to around 3.9V pretty quick. They will stay between about 3.9-3.6V for much longer and then the voltage will drop fast. As battery voltage drops the accompanying power drop should be evident by the change in the vape, but I have run batteries down to almost 2.5V a few times over the years. Below 2.5V they suffer damage that can make them unsafe.
The only way to adjust the power with a mech mod is to adjust coil resistance, which of course means you have to build a new coil. With regulated mods you just dial in a different voltage or watts and they will also keep that power level until they shut down due to low battery charge. Both systems have advantages and disadvantages, but regulated mods are easier to learn and use and are generally safer.
HTH
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if you want more clouds, build or buy a lower ohm coil. also I own a few mxhjo and theyre fine, tghey are rebranded batteries adn they are absolutely not 35A batteries. They are pushed as that but that's max draw not constant, and using that requirement basically every 20A battery is a 35. Do a search, you'll see they are just a rebranded 20A batter.
I just bought 4 vtc5 and although they are rated at 20A they perform well clos to 35, but you really won't find you need that much continuous, think about the coil youd be building to hit even 75% oif that.
4.3 * x = 35 is the equation
If you don't understand battery safety or know the ohms law equation or how to figure it out, you really shouldnt be using a mech mod yet. It's not hard to learn -
the equation is
battery voltage * coil resistance = total amp draw
most batteries fully charged will put out 4.2-4.3 volts - so you can take it from there... and don't exceed 75% ish of the rated continuousdraw... and make sure the rated draw has been confirmed.. like mxjo many batteries are rewrapped and overrated
To be clear, my mxjo are great batteries... they're just not a manufacturer and their specs are incorrect. Rip off the wrapper and you can see the manufacturer, I feel like it may be a he2 or 25r under there, I donm't remember.
I just bought 4 vtc5 and although they are rated at 20A they perform well clos to 35, but you really won't find you need that much continuous, think about the coil youd be building to hit even 75% oif that.
4.3 * x = 35 is the equation
If you don't understand battery safety or know the ohms law equation or how to figure it out, you really shouldnt be using a mech mod yet. It's not hard to learn -
the equation is
battery voltage * coil resistance = total amp draw
most batteries fully charged will put out 4.2-4.3 volts - so you can take it from there... and don't exceed 75% ish of the rated continuousdraw... and make sure the rated draw has been confirmed.. like mxjo many batteries are rewrapped and overrated
To be clear, my mxjo are great batteries... they're just not a manufacturer and their specs are incorrect. Rip off the wrapper and you can see the manufacturer, I feel like it may be a he2 or 25r under there, I donm't remember.
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Thanks Ryedan. So the only concern I have is letting the battery get to low and the only way to tell is by judging in the vapor production? How long should a fully charged battery last on a mech before it's safe to say that it needs to be swapped out?With a mech mod the power (watts) you get is dependent on the resistance of the coil and the voltage of the battery according to Ohm's law. Battery current (amp draw) is also determined this way. Here is a online Ohm's law calculator. Plug in 0.5 ohms and 4.2 volts (a fully charged Li-ion battery) and you get 8.4 amps of battery draw and 35 watts of vape power. As your battery discharges its voltage will go down. Change the voltage in the calculator to 3.7 and you'll see that the amp draw goes down to 7.4 and the power to 27 watts. You should not let battery voltage go below about 3 volts. I aim to swap batteries at around 3.6-3.7V. If you let the battery voltage go below 2.5V the battery will be damaged and not as safe as before. It's up to you to make sure you do not pull too much current from your battery and make it unsafe.
These batteries will be very close to 4.2V when fully charged and will go down to around 3.9V pretty quick. They will stay between about 3.9-3.6V for much longer and then the voltage will drop fast. As battery voltage drops the accompanying power drop should be evident by the change in the vape, but I have run batteries down to almost 2.5V a few times over the years. Below 2.5V they suffer damage that can make them unsafe.
The only way to adjust the power with a mech mod is to adjust coil resistance, which of course means you have to build a new coil. With regulated mods you just dial in a different voltage or watts and they will also keep that power level until they shut down due to low battery charge. Both systems have advantages and disadvantages, but regulated mods are easier to learn and use and are generally safer.
HTH
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