The Infected Mod Or

[papergoblin]

Thanks Ryedan. So the only concern I have is letting the battery get to low and the only way to tell is by judging in the vapor production? How long should a fully charged battery last on a mech before it's safe to say that it needs to be swapped out?

At a .5 ohm build my battery he2 or efest 2800mah I get from about 7am to 12 pm use roughly 5 hours, with medium heavy vaping.

Some of my older batteries are less. Battery life depends on vape amount, coil resistance and battery mah. Steam calculator gives an avg. amount of puffs for a build and battery

 

[Ryedan]

Thanks Ryedan. So the only concern I have is letting the battery get to low and the only way to tell is by judging in the vapor production? How long should a fully charged battery last on a mech before it's safe to say that it needs to be swapped out?

When I started vaping mechs I took the battery out and checked the voltage frequently enough that I was sure I would not run it down too low. After a few discharge cycles I got a feel for how the vape is at around 3.6-3.7V and I didn't have to check the battery so often. It didn't take me long until I almost always knew when to change batteries as long as I was using a set up I was familiar with. I do still often check battery voltage when I take one out though just to be on the safe side.

 

[papergoblin]

View attachment 493648 I'm just started getting into unregulated mech mods & don't really have any experience with them. I don't build my coils, I use clearomizers. I have a few regulated box mods and also a regulated tube mod (Lavatube 3) which has decent power. My question is, is an unregulated device like the Infected mod good? I just picked one up and am using it with an Atlantis tank but I feel like I get more clouds with a regulated device..

Forgot to ask what number is your mod, curious as to where they are at now.

 

[MikeyNY]

Forgot to ask what number is your mod, curious as to where they are at now.

I have a Lavatube 3, an Aspire CF Mod and an Infected mod.

 

[Bad Ninja]

Atlantis on a mechanical?

You are basing your safety on the quality of a $2 prebuilt Chinese coil?

My advice: NEVER use prebuilt coils on a mechanical mod.

Build your own coils and test them.

If you aren't able to build your own coils, you are not ready for a mechanical mod.

You are asking for trouble.

 

[papergoblin]

Atlantis on a mechanical?

You are basing your safety on the quality of a $2 prebuilt Chinese coil?

My advice: NEVER use prebuilt coils on a mechanical mod.

Build your own coils and test them.

If you aren't able to build your own coils, you are not ready for a mechanical mod.

You are asking for trouble.

I've used an Atlantis, subtank, subtank nano and an ijust 2 on a mech. The problem isn't coils, the problem is using these tanks in a hybrid setup. They do not have a long pin to separate the hot and ground.

As long as the coil really is the ohm it reads then there won't be a problem

 

[MikeyNY]

Atlantis on a mechanical?

You are basing your safety on the quality of a $2 prebuilt Chinese coil?

My advice: NEVER use prebuilt coils on a mechanical mod.

Build your own coils and test them.

If you aren't able to build your own coils, you are not ready for a mechanical mod.

You are asking for trouble.

Really? I didn't know. I thought I'd be ok.
Thank you for your input.
Does everyone on this thread feel the same way for the most part?

 

[papergoblin]

Really? I didn't know. I thought I'd be ok.
Thank you for your input.
Does everyone on this thread feel the same way for the most part?

Just never use an Atlantis on a mod that does not have a 510. Example, Infected is okay and SMPL is not okay

 

[MikeyNY]

Just never use an Atlantis on a mod that does not have a 510. Example, Infected is okay and SMPL is not okay

That's what the guy at my local vape shop told me. He called the mods without the 510 connection a "hybrid"?

 

[nyiddle]

That's what the guy at my local vape shop told me. He called the mods without the 510 connection a "hybrid"?

Yeah there's some terminology confusion these days, but to summarize, a "hybrid" like the SMPL bypasses the 510 connection so your atomizer makes direct connection with your battery's positive terminal. This is good (in theory) because it'd reduce voltage drop. For most people, the voltage drop it reduces won't even be noticeable. I suggest just staying away from anything with a "hybrid topcap" of any kind. They're kind of unruly.

Additionally, someone earlier in the thread mentioned the MXJO "35A" battery. It's a 20A LG HE2 rewrap. Don't bother getting it.

Here are good batteries. There is no true 35A CDR battery on the market. Period.

http://www.illumn.com/18650-lg-icr18650he2-2500mah-high-discharge-flat-top.html
http://www.illumn.com/18650-lg-18650he4-2500mah-high-discharge-flat-top.html
http://www.illumn.com/18650-samsung-inr18650-25r-r5-2500mah-green-high-discharge-flat-top.html (same as the light blue Samsung 25R's)
http://www.illumn.com/18650-sony-us18650vtc4-2100mah-high-discharge-flat-top.html
http://www.illumn.com/18650-sony-us18650vtc5-2600mah-high-discharge-flat-top.html (not 30A despite being often mislabeled as such)

And just to explain why (for a pre-built coil) you might want to go to regulated. With an unregulated mod, you're at the mercy of your battery. You'll never be able to fire more than your battery's nominal voltage (at max is 4.2, but fires at closer to 4.15). If you throw your tank on a regulated mod and find that you like it at 5V, that's too bad, you'll never get that 5V out of your 18650 battery in a mech mod. Additionally, with a regulated mod, the vape will be more consistent (which matters more for a tank than an RDA in my opinion) because the mod will step up/down to your set voltage, rather than you being at the mercy of your battery's nominal voltage.

 

[MikeyNY]

Yeah there's some terminology confusion these days, but to summarize, a "hybrid" like the SMPL bypasses the 510 connection so your atomizer makes direct connection with your battery's positive terminal. This is good (in theory) because it'd reduce voltage drop. For most people, the voltage drop it reduces won't even be noticeable. I suggest just staying away from anything with a "hybrid topcap" of any kind. They're kind of unruly.

Additionally, someone earlier in the thread mentioned the MXJO "35A" battery. It's a 20A LG HE2 rewrap. Don't bother getting it.

Here are good batteries. There is no true 35A CDR battery on the market. Period.

http://www.illumn.com/18650-lg-icr18650he2-2500mah-high-discharge-flat-top.html
http://www.illumn.com/18650-lg-18650he4-2500mah-high-discharge-flat-top.html
http://www.illumn.com/18650-samsung-inr18650-25r-r5-2500mah-green-high-discharge-flat-top.html (same as the light blue Samsung 25R's)
http://www.illumn.com/18650-sony-us18650vtc4-2100mah-high-discharge-flat-top.html
http://www.illumn.com/18650-sony-us18650vtc5-2600mah-high-discharge-flat-top.html (not 30A despite being often mislabeled as such)

And just to explain why (for a pre-built coil) you might want to go to regulated. With an unregulated mod, you're at the mercy of your battery. You'll never be able to fire more than your battery's nominal voltage (at max is 4.2, but fires at closer to 4.15). If you throw your tank on a regulated mod and find that you like it at 5V, that's too bad, you'll never get that 5V out of your 18650 battery in a mech mod. Additionally, with a regulated mod, the vape will be more consistent (which matters more for a tank than an RDA in my opinion) because the mod will step up/down to your set voltage, rather than you being at the mercy of your battery's nominal voltage.

Thank you nyiddle. From what it sounds like, I'm much better off with a regulated mod both for safety reasons as well as vape quality. I do notice I get more out of my tanks with a regulated device as compared to my mech but sometimes I like the portability and feel of the mech.

 

[nyiddle]

Thank you nyiddle. From what it sounds like, I'm much better off with a regulated mod both for safety reasons as well as vape quality. I do notice I get more out of my tanks with a regulated device as compared to my mech but sometimes I like the portability and feel of the mech.

Yeah. I'll admit when I first started vaping (when it was either "mech or no subohm for you") I really got used to the natural, almost cigar-like feeling of a nice weighty mech mod. The bottom firing buttons, the smooth locking switches... It was nice.

But then I realized that with a 2x 18650 regulated mod I could get more than double the battery life with the added benefit of being able to fit a slew of atomizers on top. And that's not even broaching the topic of safety (which I am a bit of a "paranoid parrot" about, admittedly).

 

[Boden]

Yes that should be fine.

No it won't

If you can grab a 35amp battery for future use (you may get into dripping), that would be great.
But your current battery is good enough for your Atlantis and 0.5ohm coil.
If you plan on buying new batteries in the future I suggest MXJO 18650F 2800mah 35A batteries.
They come with authentication scratch on the battery themselves, so that you can verify its authenticity on their website.

https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/f...only-a-20a-battery-but-equals-the-25r.690222/


Please learn more before you advise anyone else.

 

[Bad Ninja]

That's what the guy at my local vape shop told me. He called the mods without the 510 connection a "hybrid"?

He was wrong.

Hybrid mods do not have 510 threads.
The atty connects directly to the tube.
No top cap.

Hybrids are safe.

True hybrid.

 

[Bad Ninja]

Double post

 

[MikeyNY]

He was wrong.

Hybrid mods do not have 510 threads.
The atty connects directly to the tube.
No top cap.

Hybrids are safe.

True hybrid.
View attachment 494117

That's what he said.. Hybrids don't have the 510 pin. The connection is direct (Atty to battery). He did say though that they were NOT safe.

 

[Bad Ninja]

That's what he said.. Hybrids don't have the 510 pin. The connection is direct (Atty to battery). He did say though that they were NOT safe.

You misunderstood what I said.

True hybrids don't have 510 THREADS.

You cannot attach any standard atomizer to a hybrid. Hybrids come with atomizers.

The pic I posted above is the bottom of the atomizer. It has 20x1 threads and attaches to the body of the tube.

 

[Bad Ninja]

True hybrid.

 

[MikeyNY]

You misunderstood what I said.

True hybrids don't have 510 THREADS.

You cannot attach any standard atomizer to a hybrid. Hybrids come with atomizers.

The pic I posted is the bottom of the atomizer. It has 20x1 threads and attaches to the body of the tube.

Oh ok. What would you call a device that doesn't have the pin in it?

 

[nyiddle]

That's what he said.. Hybrids don't have the 510 pin. The connection is direct (Atty to battery). He did say though that they were NOT safe.

@Bad Ninja is making the distinction between (what is now being referred to as) "pure hybrid" versus a simpler "direct connection topcap". I mentioned in my post that the terminology is pretty finicky because you'll hear both referred to as "hybrids" (and a slew of other names). I like to provide a examples (like the SMPL versus a Neptune).

In one case you buy a full setup, it comes with an atomizer, and the atomizer threads directly onto the tube where your battery is. This is far safer than the other form, "direct connection topcap" or not-pure "hybrid" where any atomizer can be threaded directly onto the positive end of a battery essentially. If the atomizer's 510 connection isn't long enough, you'll create a dead short with the top cap of the mod and will 99.9% of the time discharge your battery. It has happened a decent bit with the SMPL mod, which is why I don't recommend it specifically.