The Innokin iTaste VV V3 owners group

[Ed_C]

Let's see-> I * V = W = 3.5amps*5volts = 17.5 watts--> W * R = V^2 = 17.5watts * 0.8ohms = 3.74 volts

Something is not adding up....

Your math looks right so, if you're set at 5V, it looks like you're either drawing more than 3.5 amps or you're only getting 3.74 volts. If you're drawing more amperage than what the device is engineered to output, I'd be worried.

PS Is there some reason why you're trying to run a sub-ohm coil on a PV that's not designed to do so?

 

[BabyExp]

I'm an engineering student. It's all about limits and failure. Personally, I think the Innokin iTaste VV V3 is the sexiest battery/mod on the market. vaping got me off Black&Mild cigars. Now it's a hobby. Hopefully that answers the question. Might try and use the 3D printer for something wicked this semester but that would be a ways off. Life Is Great. Vape....

 

[03FXDWG]

This is different. No ego threading??? Ive recently switched to using carto's & carto tanks almost exclusively so it wouldn't be a big deal for me but im curious-why haven't I seen this version before? Im constantly looming at vape shops online and todays the first time ive seen it. It looks nice and no need for beauty rings... Maybe ill get one, i love my vv v3...

The link I included is ego & 510 threaded. The version that is only 510 threading is the pen. The pen is not like the VV 3. More like an old school 510.

 

[03FXDWG]

First order for this place. Opened new account. Filled basket. At the lower part of the "cart" page, has billing and shipping address info. Neither has my City or Town displayed. Unsettling.

Called them, they said "Hmmmm". I said I don't feel comfy ordering unless you're confident this is not an issue. They said " OK". End of call.

Bummer.

Google Chrome browser sometimes does flaky things like that on my computer. I keep Firefox loaded for those times when Chrome nor Internet Explorer works properly on a website. Fill in the blank boxes on secure websites give me the most Chrome problems.

101Vape is an excellent vendor. I believe they only have the black VV3 in stock right now unless they have updated their stock since this morning.

 

[Capt.shay]

Your math looks right so, if you're set at 5V, it looks like you're either drawing more than 3.5 amps or you're only getting 3.74 volts. If you're drawing more amperage than what the device is engineered to output, I'd be worried.

PS Is there some reason why you're trying to run a sub-ohm coil on a PV that's not designed to do so?

I'm fairly convinced that the amp limit does not work on the VV/MVP . We are able to push them a lot harder then they say we can (probably not healthy). I was cranking a .8 ohm coil and the numbers were not adding up. But, I don't have the gear/knowledge to check it properly.

 

[DavidOck]

If the current (amp) limiting doesn't work and you push the battery that hard, maybe keep the fire extinguisher handy...

The battery is designed with a max current capability, trying to push it beyond that will add your name to the list of people who mis-use them and add to the myth that vaping isn't safe...

Unprotected (by control circuitry or a fuse) any battery connected to essentially a dead short is a fire waiting to happen.

 

[Capt.shay]

If the current (amp) limiting doesn't work and you push the battery that hard, maybe keep the fire extinguisher handy...

The battery is designed with a max current capability, trying to push it beyond that will add your name to the list of people who mis-use them and add to the myth that vaping isn't safe...

Unprotected (by control circuitry or a fuse) any battery connected to essentially a dead short is a fire waiting to happen.

Yup, I was VERY careful. Monitored for any undue heat discharge and all. Only did it once with my old MVP. Figured if something whent wrong it wouldn't be to much of a loss. I only did it for a short test and then dismantled it. It vaped like a beast at 3.5 V though It fired at 4.5 Volts.

One of the big issues is we don't know what the battery is rated at. Innokin hasn't released any specifications on it and when I wrote them they gave me a hog wash answer about my juice tasting burnt set up like that. I mailed them back and never heard from them after that. I really feel it is a matter of safety for them to tell us what we are using.

 

[p.opus]

If the current (amp) limiting doesn't work and you push the battery that hard, maybe keep the fire extinguisher handy...

The battery is designed with a max current capability, trying to push it beyond that will add your name to the list of people who mis-use them and add to the myth that vaping isn't safe...

Unprotected (by control circuitry or a fuse) any battery connected to essentially a dead short is a fire waiting to happen.

I agree.

I believe that the circutry is working. The unit is firing, but there is no way He's pulling that many watts of the unit.

If you look at the graphs that PBusardo put out for the VV3, you see the unit fires, but is wonky at low ohms.

He's been warned. As Forrest Gump said...Stupid is as stupid does....

 

[Red Dog]

This is what comes from reading too much. I am not an electronics guy at all, I just read a lot of info every day. I am sorry if what I wrote is bad info, I honestly can't say either way, as I'm sure I am confusing something I read.

In thinking about it, what you said makes sense to me, as if resistance is fixed, the only way to change watts is by changing volts,and to my understanding a APV can't *change* the resistance of the coil, only read it and adjust volts/watts...

Good catch My goof.

I'm not sure what you mean by adjusting for a drop in voltage (sag). If the voltage drops it's not like your PV can change the resistance to maintain a set wattage. If your voltage drops, your wattage will drop as well. If you mean that if your battery voltage has dropped it will maintain the same output voltage I'd agree, but the same is true with VV.

The device obviously can't change resistance, but it can change voltage and amperage. Unlike in a straight VV device, the amps are not fixed in a VW device. Watching the screen on my Darwin throughout a firing cycle, I would often see the resistance fluctuating, and the voltage and amperage changing to maintain the set wattage.

 

[p.opus]

The device obviously can't change resistance, but it can change voltage and amperage. Unlike in a straight VV device, the amps are not fixed in a VW device. Watching the screen on my Darwin throughout a firing cycle, I would often see the resistance fluctuating, and the voltage and amperage changing to maintain the set wattage.

I'm not sure of that. There is no reason to believe that the device couldn't have a variable resistor circuit in series with the coil that it could change the value of to add artificial load to the circuit.

According to Ohms law there are only two variables affecting power. Voltage and resistance. We are assuming that resistance is constant because the coil resistance doesn't change. But I believe it's entirely possible to put into a variable resistor that can add additional load on the circuit. This variable resistor could be part of the short circuit protection such that if there is 0 ohms detected, then the variable resistor basically opens the circuit to protect the battery

 

[DavidOck]

While that may be true, much easier for the control circuit to just turn off if sensing either too low a resistance or too high a current. Adding a processor controlled variable resistor would complicate the circuit and likely run up the cost. Of course, it could all be done with a custom LSIC, but I think the makers are all going for cheap.

And no matter what, all the source (battery) can do is adjust voltage. Current changes follow voltage changes.

 

[p.opus]

True. I wish I knew how the MVP circuitry worked.

There were two posters here recently that were saying that in VW mode, the battery was constantly reading 5.0 volts out. According to Ohms Law, there was no way it could be firing at 5 volts, but that's what their volt meters are reading. I'd love to know enough electronics to know how the VV3 and MVP's regulate wattage.

 

[bogmonster]

Sounds like Innokin needs to hop on this thread to clarify....unless there's an engineer out there who's already torn his dead one apart....

 

[gerrymi]

Can you share a link to the 'thingys' you are referring to and maybe a link showing how to use them? I sure would appreciate it!

See section on "Fiddlin' Your Thingy"

http://www.ibtanked.com/images/Post/header_brochure_inside.jpg

 

[Ed_C]

The device obviously can't change resistance, but it can change voltage and amperage. Unlike in a straight VV device, the amps are not fixed in a VW device. Watching the screen on my Darwin throughout a firing cycle, I would often see the resistance fluctuating, and the voltage and amperage changing to maintain the set wattage.

It's not really voltage AND amperage. The current (amperage) increases when the voltage increases or when the resistance decreases.
I(amp)=V/R The device changes the voltage and the current goes along for the ride. Current is not really fixed in a VV PV, but it's the user that changes the voltage and therefore the current, not the device.
Maybe this is what you meant, but it sounded like you were saying that there were two variables that the device was changing.

 

[DavidOck]

True. I wish I knew how the MVP circuitry worked.

There were two posters here recently that were saying that in VW mode, the battery was constantly reading 5.0 volts out. According to Ohms Law, there was no way it could be firing at 5 volts, but that's what their volt meters are reading. I'd love to know enough electronics to know how the VV3 and MVP's regulate wattage.

That confuses me... enough to go back through the manual.

Which states "Hold both the + and - buttons simultaneously for 2 seconds. The screen will show a series of readings, the first being the resistance of the attached load, the second being the battery voltage, the third being the number of puffs since the device was last turned off and the fourth being the last set voltage or wattage."

So if they're in VW mode, the only voltage displayed is the battery voltage, which shouldn't ever get up to 5... So maybe they're actually in VV mode with 5 volts set?

The manual also states, btw, "Red LED will stay for five seconds when a load short circuit is detected or the current output of the coil is more than 3.5A, then no vapor will be produced."

No indication, of course, on how it senses said short or high current, and I'm still thinking "the cheapest way possible."

 

[Ed_C]

Funny I didn't ever notice that if you keep holding down both you get four values. It's when you push just one or the other (+ or -) that you get puffs and either set watts or set volts, depending on the mode.

 

[MissKitty47]

Hmmm...mine did only two readings with both pressed. But mine is an older mvp2...???

Sent by my cat through pure magic

 

[MissKitty47]

Just did the vv3 and got four...silly kitty!

Sent by my cat through pure magic

 

[Ed_C]

MVP2? This is a VV V3 thread.

Hmmm...mine did only two readings with both pressed. But mine is an older mvp2...???

Sent by my cat through pure magic