The Innokin iTaste VV V3 owners group

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Rossum

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Assuming you're using the same liquid, you'll (theoretically) get the same vape no matter what the resistance value of the coil. So if you replace the coil and the new one happens to be a different ohm value, the battery in VW mode will automatically adjust the voltage to deliver the same heat to the new coil.
Yes, it will. But a different coil will apply that heat to the wicking differently, and will also change the vape. vape isn't just about how much power is applied, it's also a question of how that power is applied to and interacts with the wicking.

Right. Ok so in a sense VW is just easier being that it calculates the volts for you based on your coil
More or less. Run a 3.2 ohm carto (needs fairly high voltage) and and replace it with a 1.5 ohm and you'd better remember to turn your voltage down before firing the 1.5 ohm coil, otherwise you risk some seriously burnt crap, while on a VW device, you'll be in the ballpark without further ado.

How would the coil value change over time?
Coils tend to increase in resistance with use. Don't ask me why this happens. It's not terribly obvious until you use a device like a DNA 20 that shows the resistance of the attached coil all the time.
 

DavidOck

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Consider the lowly incandescent light bulb. It has a filament, similar to the coil in vaping, that gets hot when power is applied. Over time, the resistance will change - slightly. That's one of the reasons they get dimmer with age. (Another being deposits on the inside of the bulb, but that's not of concern for vaping :) ) The tiny change is usually not significant, but it can happen.

Oh, and your measured resistance vs. labeled resistance. May be due to manufacturing tolerances, calibration of the meter (in your case you VV3), contact resistance. 0.1 difference between marked and measured is inconsequential.
 

DavidOck

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Yes, it will. But a different coil will apply that heat to the wicking differently, and will also change the vape. Vape isn't just about how much power is applied, it's also a question of how that power is applied to and interacts with the wicking.


More or less. Run a 3.2 ohm carto (needs fairly high voltage) and and replace it with a 1.5 ohm and you'd better remember to turn your voltage down before firing the 1.5 ohm coil, otherwise you risk some seriously burnt crap, while on a VW device, you'll be in the ballpark without further ado.

Right, coil geometry - how much surface area - also plays a big part!

And you'll be tossing that carto :)
 

Way2Gone

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Yes, it will. But a different coil will apply that heat to the wicking differently, and will also change the vape. Vape isn't just about how much power is applied, it's also a question of how that power is applied to and interacts with the wicking.

I bought some new coils at a local shop called VaporBank here in Indiana and well they cannot take much at all. For example when I first bought my vaping gear, I bought this battery and a KangerTech T3S tank, it came with a 2.2 ohm coil in it and I could crank it up to 10 11 watts, the maximum this battery would put out and never a burn. Now with these new coils, if I don't pull on my draw hard enough and just hold the battery for 1 second to long, it gives me a burnt taste with these new 2.2 ohm coils I bought from vaporbank. I can barely vape at high watts or volts and if I do, I have to draw very fast and I can't hold my battery button down long at all because I will have a trashcan full of smoke in my mouth. I just put these coils in yesturday and I cleaned my tank out today to refill with some fresh juice and i cleaned my wicks out and already (It doesn't seem real bad) I can see the wick starting to turn black... I just put these in! I dunno... Do you think I might need to already replace it if it is already turning a bit black? Its not coal black but I can see it coming in already. Is this bad for you? The wicking that is.

P.S. I have the same coil in two different tanks and it does the same thing in both. I think I bought some cheap coils, but I am not 100% certain that is the issue yet.
 

p.opus

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I bought some new coils at a local shop called VaporBank here in Indiana and well they cannot take much at all. For example when I first bought my vaping gear, I bought this battery and a KangerTech T3S tank, it came with a 2.2 ohm coil in it and I could crank it up to 10 11 watts, the maximum this battery would put out and never a burn. Now with these new coils, if I don't pull on my draw hard enough and just hold the battery for 1 second to long, it gives me a burnt taste with these new 2.2 ohm coils I bought from vaporbank. I can barely vape at high watts or volts and if I do, I have to draw very fast and I can't hold my battery button down long at all because I will have a trashcan full of smoke in my mouth. I just put these coils in yesturday and I cleaned my tank out today to refill with some fresh juice and i cleaned my wicks out and already (It doesn't seem real bad) I can see the wick starting to turn black... I just put these in! I dunno... Do you think I might need to already replace it if it is already turning a bit black? Its not coal black but I can see it coming in already. Is this bad for you? The wicking that is.

P.S. I have the same coil in two different tanks and it does the same thing in both. I think I bought some cheap coils, but I am not 100% certain that is the issue yet.

Trying to find cheap coils is tough. I buy all mine from Sun Vapers. They have a great price and I haven't had any issues with them yet. But to be honest, I ususally don't vape above 7 watts. I get burned taste beyond that. I haven't really heard of any Kanger heads that can vape at 10 or 11 watts.
 

Way2Gone

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Trying to find cheap coils is tough. I buy all mine from Sun Vapers. They have a great price and I haven't had any issues with them yet. But to be honest, I ususally don't vape above 7 watts. I get burned taste beyond that. I haven't really heard of any Kanger heads that can vape at 10 or 11 watts.

It might sound weird to you but honestly I would vape pretty high and never got the nasty taste I am getting out of these coils. Now it could be due to me not smoking much and my taste starting to come back, but I am 100% sure that is not the case. I think I just picked up some bad coils but I could be wrong. I just know I have to prime these coils pretty well to get them to hit good. Hmm. Its a learning curve that I am in and its proving to be a challenge.
 

p.opus

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Does anybody know a good article that I could learn about resistance.

You asked.....Here's how wattage, resistance, voltage all mix together.

Before we start, Watts at the coil is what produces the flavor, higher wattage -> Higher Temperature -> more flavor and more vapor (until you go too high and burn the juice....)

Ohms Law and Watts Law state the following for a simple DC circuit. Watts = Voltage*Current.... Current = Voltage/Resistance. So Watts = Voltage*Voltage/Resistance

When you had an Ego Stick Battery or unregulated battery, The voltage output of your battery was fixed. Thus the only way to coax out more temperature at the coil was to lower it's resistance. This is why people use 1.8 ohm coils or lower on standard non regulated batteries. If Voltage remains constant, then when resistance goes down, Watts goes up...More flavor, More Temp.... Problem is. It's not easy to set the resistance to a coil. Once it's "wrapped" it's pretty much set. So you are stuck with buying a lower resistance coil from the manufacturer, or coiling your own heads.

So The Variable Voltage Battery came into play. I can't easily change resistance, but I can raise voltage. Thus if resistance stays constant, when I increase voltage, I increase wattage. Much easier for us to control the flavor. Most people simply set their batteries at a low value and then bump up the voltage until it "tastes right". If you already know what your coil resistance is, and what Wattage you want at the coil, then you can calculate what voltage you need to get to your target wattage. There are also Voltage and resistance tables online that allow you to have a good starting point for your adjustments.

One little problem with variable voltage. Let's say I take off one tank and put on a new one....Even though Kanger, Innokin, or whoever says that it's a 1.8 ohm coil, it can actually be up to .3 to .4 ohms different. So when I put on my new tank with it's atty and take a draw at my desired voltage, all of the sudden, the vape is not as intense, or tastes burnt. This is because resistance varies from coil to coil. It can also vary over the life of the coil. So with variable voltage, you have to continue to tweak your settings when you change atty heads or as the atty head ages.

Here's where Variable Wattage comes in. Let's say I discover that I like vaping a particular juice at 7.5 watts. I may have discovered this using variable voltage....(4.3 volts, 2.5 ohm resistance). So now I set my Variable Wattage to 7.5 watts. The device will measure the coil resistance and then automatically adjust the volts up or down to produce 7.5 watts. If I put my juice in a new tank, and the atty head changes resistance, I still get 7.5 watts and the same flavor....If my coil changes in resistance over time...I still produce 7.5 watts and my flavor stays consistent.

So that's how resistance plays into the whole variable voltage/variable wattage discussion and why lower resistance heads are preferred on standard non regulated batteries.

For a simple explanation of ohms law...See below:
Ohms Law - A simple explanation
 

Red Dog

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Yes, the resistance changes when you change your topper (provided it's of a different resistance). Resistance is measured in ohms and your voltage squared, divided by your resistance (ohms) equals power (watts).
Resistance can also change as the coil ages, with different juices, and can even fluctuate during the firing cycle.
 

Katdarling

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You asked.....Here's how wattage, resistance, voltage all mix together.

Before we start, Watts at the coil is what produces the flavor, higher wattage -> Higher Temperature -> more flavor and more vapor (until you go too high and burn the juice....)

Ohms Law and Watts Law state the following for a simple DC circuit. Watts = Voltage*Current.... Current = Voltage/Resistance. So Watts = Voltage*Voltage/Resistance

When you had an Ego Stick Battery or unregulated battery, The voltage output of your battery was fixed. Thus the only way to coax out more temperature at the coil was to lower it's resistance. This is why people use 1.8 ohm coils or lower on standard non regulated batteries. If Voltage remains constant, then when resistance goes down, Watts goes up...More flavor, More Temp.... Problem is. It's not easy to set the resistance to a coil. Once it's "wrapped" it's pretty much set. So you are stuck with buying a lower resistance coil from the manufacturer, or coiling your own heads.

So The Variable Voltage Battery came into play. I can't easily change resistance, but I can raise voltage. Thus if resistance stays constant, when I increase voltage, I increase wattage. Much easier for us to control the flavor. Most people simply set their batteries at a low value and then bump up the voltage until it "tastes right". If you already know what your coil resistance is, and what Wattage you want at the coil, then you can calculate what voltage you need to get to your target wattage. There are also Voltage and resistance tables online that allow you to have a good starting point for your adjustments.

One little problem with variable voltage. Let's say I take off one tank and put on a new one....Even though Kanger, Innokin, or whoever says that it's a 1.8 ohm coil, it can actually be up to .3 to .4 ohms different. So when I put on my new tank with it's atty and take a draw at my desired voltage, all of the sudden, the vape is not as intense, or tastes burnt. This is because resistance varies from coil to coil. It can also vary over the life of the coil. So with variable voltage, you have to continue to tweak your settings when you change atty heads or as the atty head ages.

Here's where Variable Wattage comes in. Let's say I discover that I like vaping a particular juice at 7.5 watts. I may have discovered this using variable voltage....(4.3 volts, 2.5 ohm resistance). So now I set my Variable Wattage to 7.5 watts. The device will measure the coil resistance and then automatically adjust the volts up or down to produce 7.5 watts. If I put my juice in a new tank, and the atty head changes resistance, I still get 7.5 watts and the same flavor....If my coil changes in resistance over time...I still produce 7.5 watts and my flavor stays consistent.

So that's how resistance plays into the whole variable voltage/variable wattage discussion and why lower resistance heads are preferred on standard non regulated batteries.

For a simple explanation of ohms law...See below:
Ohms Law - A simple explanation

Brilliant. If anyone doesn't quite "get" this..... read it again. Brilliant.

Fist bump, p.opus. ;) (and I'm a girl.... who doesn't fist bump.)
 

Way2Gone

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Just wondering, speaking of 1.8 ohm coils, I buy 1.8 ohm Kanger coils and have yet to find one that reads 1.8 ohms. They always read about 2.0-2.2 ohms when new. Has anyone else found this to be the case?

When clicking the + and the - button, you the first reading you get is the resistance reading correct? For example, it will show something like A 2.2 or in your case maybe 1.9 or 1.7 or 2.0? I have a 2.2 ohm coil and when I hit the + and - button at the same time I get A 2.3. So yeah mine changes sometimes as well. I have seen it at 2.4 as well a few times, which I think is due from either vaping in wattage mode or voltage mode.
 

Rossum

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Consider the lowly incandescent light bulb. It has a filament, similar to the coil in vaping, that gets hot when power is applied.
Incandescent light bulbs are interesting. Grab one and measure its resistance, then do your Ohm's law V^2/R calculation and see how the results compare to its rated power. :D

What happens with a light bulb (and to a lesser extent with an atomizer coil) is that its resistance increases with temperature. Of course, a light bulb filament runs a lot hotter than an atomizer coil does, especially when the atomizer coil is in contact with a liquid that has a boiling point of only a few hundred degrees. So the resistance change of a light bulb filament as it heats up and cools down is much greater.
 

03FXDWG

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Future new owner, without reading thousands of posts about this little beast what should I know?

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

It is the most reasonably priced commercial mini APV available. It does everything the big boys do but at half the price or less except last all day on a single charge but it will work as a pass-through so that is usually not a problem. I bought a 2nd one so it is never a problem for me--lol.
 

pipster

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I'm a half hour in to my new VV3 that came today. I got the pearl chrome and chameleon. One for back up. I am using the Iclear 16 that came with it, so far so good. It's a smart little device, I like the feel of it and loads of vapor. The Iclear 16's have a tighter draw than my PT 2 mini, which I am liking. I hear that some people trim the dual coil wicks a bit on the 16's for less burns and dry hits and to hold more juice. Will have to experiment a bit and see how it goes. I like it a lot so far!
 
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