The new GP-SSR Pics!

[Chingas]

Hope these come out soon. I have a MAP and it works very well and has been durable for me. However, I hate it when it comes time to replace the ce-2 guts. So much so that my MAP is sitting here unassembled while I use a syringe mod. Is it true that all you have to do to swap the guts is unscrew the old and then screw the new? Great idea.

Stoked and waiting.

 

[littlewierdo]

It is absolutely critical that they unscrew to remove the CE2 cart and unscrew to refill for me.

If I have to use a syringe to refill, forget it. I am very much into the idea of unscrew / screw together for everything because you cant break anything (maybe strip the threads but you'd have to work pretty hard to do that) and you know you have a solid connection.

If there was a solution available, I would pay for it.

Maybe I am missing something, we have battery mods that do everything in the world you could possibly want (including variable voltage with one battery - see the Provari and the never able to order Precious and the just as rare Darwin), ohm checking on atomizers, multiple connector types for different atomizer styles, just about any battery combination and button style you can think of but we dont have a heating element / tank system yet.

I cant seriously even recommend an ecig to other people as it is absolutely a pain the way it is right now.

Nobody wants to play around with their ecig to figure out how to add fluid (or deal with having to add fluid - especially when it involves using a syringe). The end goal is longevity and convenience - we have that in the battery portion of the ecig components (if you buy a battery style mod like the Prodigy, Silver Bullet, etc) but it just isnt there in the liquid to the heating element delivery system.

I currently own over 50 ecig mods ranging from several starter kits to the GGTS with AVS v2

Why am I using the Silver Bullet vs the GGTS? Because it just works. There arent 12 components that have to be changed out depending on what Im doing, the button isnt janky as it is on the GGTS, etc.

Anyways, yes... does it unscrew / rescrew for CE2 replacing AND refilling?

 

[bpaulette]

No syringes required. There's enough space between the ceramic atty and the tube wall, you probably wouldn't even need a drip top bottle to pour it in.

Yes, to replace the CE2 in the base, you unscrew it. There's an o-ring on the bottom of the old CE2, you take it off and put it on the new CE2, screw the new CE2 in.

The top delrin cap (which holds the drip) doesn't unscrew, it just pops in and out... kinda like a cork. You have to rock it a bit, to get it started, then just pull it out. When you put it back in, same thing - you rock it a bit to get the seal past the lip, and then it just snaps into place. When its inserted, its seals do keep a nice firm grip in the tube. So its not nearly loose enough to accidentally pop it off (which is good), but its tight enough that you do have to rock it a bit to get it going.

The base cap seems to have tighter fit, and you have to rock it quite a bit (while its still on a battery so you have something to grab on to). Its a little harder (also a very good thing - you wouldn't want the tube coming off in your hands if you're just trying to pop the top off to refill). Neither is all that hard to remove, but also utterly impossible to remove either unless you mean to. Hope that makes sense.

 

[Chingas]

Hopefully these will be sold with a few extra O-rings. Between my butterfingers and 1 extremely stupid cat there will be losses.

 

[dlbald]

This sounds like a great device! I want to be the first in line to get one......

 

[littlewierdo]

1. Wow, so it sounds like you literally can remove it from your device via unscrewing, pull the top cap off, reach in with your fingers and just unscrew the CE2 from the base and pull out, take the new CE2 and screw in from the top into the base, refill from the top, recap and finally screw onto the battery.

Ok, how can I give you monies for one .

I just started messing with the CE2 and with some messing around was able to get it wicking and all that pretty well (just cut notches in the top cap that covers the top of the center pole and shaved a 'tiny' amount of the plastic from the bottom of the same cap.

Im trying to figure out where the heating element is as I think I might be able to completely remove the top cap and just push the O ring (the one that sits above the top cap) down until it sits flush with the top of the center pole.

Then to refill the CE2, I can just use a pen to pop the O ring out and carefully drip down the side (being careful to not get it into the center pole if I am understanding this thing correctly).

2. I hope I am understanding this correctly, the center post shouldnt get flooded (maybe a drop or two of liquid is ok).

2a. As a little side note, whats the usage life like on these CE2's? Im thinking maybe a week or two?

3. Where is the heating element in these CE2s? Is it at the top of the center post or the bottom near the 510 threaded connector (I 'briefly' looked at it and then after I filled it, I started thinking about how to modify these to be useable without a syringe while I wait). If its at the bottom, Im curious as to how the wicks get liquid down to the bottom as they seem to just be stretched across the top of the center post...

I think the flaw with these CE2s is they have them designed backwards. If you could remove the 510 threading from the bottom via screw threads and then fill it from the bottom, these would work well.

The design change would simply require a metallic bottom base around the inner part of the plastic tube with threading both along the center post and reverse threading around the outside bottom portion of the tube with maybe an O ring.

Anyway, Im thinking to hard about this but I am almost positive I could come up with a way for these things to be easily refilliable and to wick correctly. I dont understand the designers of the CE2...

K, off to drink some more, Im rambling now...

 

[bpaulette]

1. Wow, so it sounds like you literally can remove it from your device via unscrewing

Yes

reach in with your fingers and just unscrew the CE2

If you have baby fingers, possibly. Heh - actually, to unscrew the CE2 you'll probably need to remove the outer tube to get a good enough grip on the CE2

I just started messing with the CE2 and with some messing around was able to get it wicking and all that pretty well (just cut notches in the top cap that covers the top of the center pole and shaved a 'tiny' amount of the plastic from the bottom of the same cap.

Im trying to figure out where the heating element is as I think I might be able to completely remove the top cap and just push the O ring (the one that sits above the top cap) down until it sits flush with the top of the center pole.

Then to refill the CE2, I can just use a pen to pop the O ring out and carefully drip down the side (being careful to not get it into the center pole if I am understanding this thing correctly).

2. I hope I am understanding this correctly, the center post shouldnt get flooded (maybe a drop or two of liquid is ok).

I'm not sure if I'm following here. Sounds like you're talking about the leak guard seal, which in this case, basically just lives in the mouthpiece, right above the ceramic cup. Once you get the leak seal placed correctly, you really don't have to mess with it at all. Every time you remove the top cap/mouthpiece, it stays in there, and when you pop the top cap back on, it rests on top of the cup to prevent leaking into the drip tip.

2a. As a little side note, whats the usage life like on these CE2's? Im thinking maybe a week or two?

Overall lifespan (including washing/re-using?) or lifespan between cleaning?

As far as how long they'll last without cleaning, I usually only push a single CE2 for a day or two before I rinse it out. Cleaning these is really easy. You just rinse it out with water, shake off excess water, and then give it several dry burns to burn off any buildup on the heating coils, and then slap it back on, fill it up and you're good to go. I've rinsed mine daily since getting this one (I love a clean atty), it takes me less than 5 mins. (EDIT: Also, I should point out that I vape 100% VG, which does tend to leave more residue than PG, so PG vapers may not need to clean as often)

As far as overall lifespan... Like how many times can you wash/re-use before they just die? I don't know. I've been using CE2's (all my others are the standard stainless steel type) for about 5 months now, and I've actually never had one stop working on me. Maybe I'm just lucky, I dunno - I'm sure they die at some point, I just haven't had it happen yet. I've lost quite a few by misplacing them (and once my wife threw away a whole wad of them that I was saving to wash - not my happiest day).

3. Where is the heating element in these CE2s? Is it at the top of the center post or the bottom near the 510 threaded connector (I 'briefly' looked at it and then after I filled it, I started thinking about how to modify these to be useable without a syringe while I wait). If its at the bottom, Im curious as to how the wicks get liquid down to the bottom as they seem to just be stretched across the top of the center post...

I think the flaw with these CE2s is they have them designed backwards. If you could remove the 510 threading from the bottom via screw threads and then fill it from the bottom, these would work well.

The design change would simply require a metallic bottom base around the inner part of the plastic tube with threading both along the center post and reverse threading around the outside bottom portion of the tube with maybe an O ring.

Anyway, Im thinking to hard about this but I am almost positive I could come up with a way for these things to be easily refilliable and to wick correctly. I dont understand the designers of the CE2.

Uh... wow, yeah, I think you've got these mixed up in your head, as far as how they work. Again, no syringe required. At all, for any reason. Normal CE2's include the syringe so that you can get the juice through those annoyingly tiny holes in the leak guard seal. With this, when you remove the top, the leak guard comes off with it, and you pour the juice into a very wide, easily accessible space.

I'll be able to explain faster in photoshop. haha. You're not quite picturing it right. ...here:

 

[AaronB]

bpaulette - Your description and pics are fantastic. If you have time how about a pic of the top piece (bottom view) with the "leak guard" (inserted into the top piece?)

 

[5cardstud]

So pics are great but hands on is better so WHEN will it be out?

 

[littlewierdo]

I was referring to the design of the CE2s being wrong, not the GP-SSR. If the CE2 (including the casing) was removable from the bottom for refilling they would be a more viable option.

Probably didnt explain myself very clearly, meh, doesnt matter now.

I just ordered some 510 Boges (15) and some 510 Atomizers (5) which should last me awhile. I dont have any idea what the demand for the GP-SSRs are going to be (I am assuming really high) and the supply will be limited (much like the map tank) which means it will be a long time until they are available for more than 5 minutes (Im thinking) and not sold out.

I really dont want to refresh a webpage 200 times a day if you know what I mean. If I happen to be able to order one, by chance once they become available, I will absolutely do that - $20 is a fantastic price.

Nice pics btw, I have a very good indication of how your mod is going to work

 

[bpaulette]

bpaulette - Your description and pics are fantastic. If you have time how about a pic of the top piece (bottom view) with the "leak guard" (inserted into the top piece?)

 

[bpaulette]

I was referring to the design of the CE2s being wrong, not the GP-SSR. If the CE2 (including the casing) was removable from the bottom for refilling they would be a more viable option.

Yeah, I'm following now. I think the seal, and the whole stick-this-syringe-through-this-hole thing is the problem. I've always just ripped that damn seal out of my stainless steel CE2's, and threw em away, and dripped straight down the sides of the tube. Which made them more prone to leaking if turned upside down, but I didn't really care, because I refuse to deal with syringes and crap just to refill a carto.

 

[FreakyStylie]

So pics are great but hands on is better so WHEN will it be out?

Ditto

 

[BorisTheSpider]

Ditto

Word.

 

[bowhunterr2001]

Waiting for one also..

 

[otrpu]

I hate connectors, when's it going to be available 510 native?

Cheers,
otrpu

 

[dirt2suck]

Sorry to say...the 510 native probably wont be. (at least that I see)
The adapter is what is necessary so you can adjust the airflow and draw that you prefer.

 

[dirt2suck]

Yeah, I'm following now. I think the seal, and the whole stick-this-syringe-through-this-hole thing is the problem. I've always just ripped that damn seal out of my stainless steel CE2's, and threw em away, and dripped straight down the sides of the tube. Which made them more prone to leaking if turned upside down, but I didn't really care, because I refuse to deal with syringes and crap just to refill a carto.

The pic you have of the silicone ring....The GP-SSR actually wicks and works best with the silicone ring upside down.
This will allow the liquid to get to the cup, without having to wick.
No pinching of the wicks.

We also use the flat silicone ring to work the same way.
the GP-SSR w/o CE2 actually has the flat ring.

As long as you push it snug against the CE2 cup, leaking should not be a problem.

 

[Robert T]

Rob, are you saying that the 510 Clearomizers won't work? I've got my finger on the purchase button on two different sites,yours and Ricks at AtmosUsa but he only has the 510. I have some 808 XL steel but I don't think those will work either?

 

[tybin]

robert i'd email him real quick. he went off line