The Rose v2 Rebuildable Atomizer

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Bikenstein

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Question for you owners of the Rose: using the "Rose" logo for orientation, what side of the base is your airhole on, the "R" side or the "e" side?

My Tobeco clone's hole is on the e side and it draws fine. In fact, I close it to about 2/3 for the draw I like on most juices. It seems to be a fairly airy draw. With it closed there is zero draw. My only problem with it is sometimes my finger blocks the air hole when I use it on my istick 30
 

turbocad6

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my clone and original are both on the R side


I'm so glad I got a cheap clone to cut up before cutting up my authentic rose. I really thought I'd like the airflow ring cut flush but after doing it I don't really like it, I miss the little rise of the airflow ring. when I hold the mod this airflow ring winds up being a locating notch by feel of how I hold it and fire it, it adds comfort in the feel and it just looked better not flush. now I did my authentic and I tapered the bottom to keep the airflow ring intact and I love the way it flows with the wizard now.

I also changed the shape of the top slightly and took off even more material on the authentic, now with the plastic tank it feels pretty light. big difference, it don't feel top heavy at all anymore, it feels much more balanced and I think it looks sick. really happy with he way it turned out.


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here is the clone on the left and the authentic on the right. the authentic is much better quality stainless steel throughout


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so now I went to coil it and decided to try something different. I went larger than I ever have, 3.1mm ID, then I decided to leave it with the bottom of the coil level with the top threads of the deck instead of lowered into the well like a typical build. I did this because it made wicking really easy, just stick the cotton through the coil easy then split the legs and drop them down. I made sure the bell won't contact the coil and put it all together not knowing what to expect.



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the verdict? the long legs don't hurt anything, the coil still glows well from the center out with no hot legs. mounting the coil and wicking couldn't be easier, and it works awesome.... thick rich creamy clouds with awesome flavor... I thought it wouldn't be so great by having the coil so far from the air inlet, but being really close the the outlet tip of the funnel that reduces out to the drip tip seems to do something really nice to the flavor too, it's one of those OMG type builds so far and I'm surprised but really happy with it at the moment, a 100% perfect vape, hope it's not a fluke and is reproducible because I'm reeeally loving this thing right now, looks feel and vape :)
 
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ignotus

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My Tobeco clone's hole is on the e side and it draws fine. In fact, I close it to about 2/3 for the draw I like on most juices. It seems to be a fairly airy draw. With it closed there is zero draw. My only problem with it is sometimes my finger blocks the air hole when I use it on my istick 30

It wouldn't be an issue if the timing of the threads was different, which it may be on your Tobeco. It's the same on the two I own, however, so as I screwed the deck onto the "e" side base I could actually see the insulator swing around right in front of the airhole just as they got tight.
 

Bikenstein

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It wouldn't be an issue if the timing of the threads was different, which it may be on your Tobeco. It's the same on the two I own, however, so as I screwed the deck onto the "e" side base I could actually see the insulator swing around right in front of the airhole just as they got tight.
On mine the insulator ends up opposite the air hole but the screw head comes into view just as it's tightened. I don't think it's affecting the air flow though since it has a space there and is rounded.
 

turbocad6

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I love how you machined them down. It doesn't make sense to have extra material if it's just making it heavier. Good job!
That's a lot of wraps! Why so many?


yeah I don't see the sense in it either, it's a big heavy mass of stainless steel for no real reason. well I mean part of the reason is that because of the adjustable chimney for juice control it needs that long bore at the driptip, but making the whole cap as thick as the bore is a lot of extra weight and size. here's the modded cap next to the original, the modded one is light as a feather, the original unmodded cap is like 4 times as heavy


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that coil is Ni200, temp controlled on a dna40. dual coils are a pain with Ni wire, this has the mass of dual coils with the simplicity of a single, the dna40 really likes higher resistance Ni builds. they call for .10 as a minimum but I find it works better at higher resistances. my builds seem to work better when I get to .14 or more, even better at closer to .2 this one comes in at .27 which is high compared to my previous builds but it works awesome. the dna40 gives a blast of extra energy to preheat so even with this much mass it's not laggy at all, big vapor from the start. big vapor and flavor from this coil here
 

turbocad6

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@ turbocad6:

How's the heat dissipation on your streamlined Roses?

realistically I haven't noticed much difference... the rose takes a long time to heat up but when chain vaping it can get warm, a little less mass should be able to cool a little quicker but I haven't noticed much difference, rarely get it warm enough to notice I guess
 
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ignotus

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Response from Eden Mods concerning the airhole:

Hi [ignotus],

No, the CNC process doesn't maintain position of the hole relative to the thread, so it could be in any position. Given that there is sufficient space between the insulator and the hole to facilitate a smooth air-path, we never saw the requirement to ensure that it was on the same side.

To be honest, nobody has ever remarked on this before either, after a year of this product being out, you are the first - and that doesn't happen often anymore :)

Regards,

Lee
 

snow blind

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I'm going to do a big tutorial today and/or tomorrow covering several builds on the Rose. Hopefully this will be helpful to new owners.

This would be very cool! I've never been a big fan of the Rose RTAs... this might shed some light on a coil/wicking method or some other tip/trick that helps me figure out what i might have been doing wrong.
 

reeftivo

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Ok so I loaded up my rose with an good juice and it tasted perfumy like nail polish smells , so I'm going to clean my rose and try again

most likely coming from the ceramic!

I had to cook off my attys that have ceramic. Just use a torch. Only washing the ceramic never worked for me. I always had that funky soapy/perfumy taste until I torched them.
 
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